A Rebuild Story - A Forged MP3 Motor

great idea for the reservsation threads lol..i was wondering how quickly this thread would become cluttered and hard to follow...


Lemme be the first so say that I as well as all of the others here thoroughly appreciate you going through this detailed process..Building an engine is one thing, but going through your research process is also a great thing to show, as it really displays the importance of taking your time to do things right the first time...Big props to you man..

Definately subscribing to this one..If I can add my 2 cents in at all I'll be sure to help out, though I suggest making sure Nick (MPNick) keeps his eye on this thread, as he is a plethora of automotive knowledge..

Good Luck! I almost want to send a donation..
 
A few questions after reading your first post...

With the building of such a serious motor, what power levels\boost levels do you plan on having? Is there any though of upgrading the turbo?

Also, would you mind going into decribing the machine processes that your engine is undergoing and what they really do? What is a glaze break?

What is the differnce in piston rings between the stockers and the race rings?

If I were you, I would be looking into a sponsorship to try to keep that hole in your block from putting a hole in your wallet. I mean, it would be great advertising for the vender since I can see this becoming a VERY popular thread, prally a forced induction sticky..
 
yup, I'm gonna subscribe to this thread because I wanna see what all this work will do and also learn a couple of things in the proccess.
 
KzA said:
A few questions after reading your first post...

With the building of such a serious motor, what power levels\boost levels do you plan on having? Is there any though of upgrading the turbo?

Also, would you mind going into decribing the machine processes that your engine is undergoing and what they really do? What is a glaze break?

What is the differnce in piston rings between the stockers and the race rings?

If I were you, I would be looking into a sponsorship to try to keep that hole in your block from putting a hole in your wallet. I mean, it would be great advertising for the vender since I can see this becoming a VERY popular thread, prally a forced induction sticky..

My 16G should be good to 550 cfm of flow... I should in theory be able to push around 22-26 psi without becoming too inefficient. I'm going to try to run around 21 psi or better daily. Maybe 26+ for race days. I'd figure I'd run a base horsepower around 300.. and maybe get up to 350+ if I can... don't know until I try it! :) I may likely need to upgrade the turbo but with auto-x and the like I want the fast spool for now... so I'm staying with it.

I did more or less explain what the machining process do up in the first part of the thread... the align makes for a better seat for the crank, the glaze break helps the rings seat in properly. A glaze break is really a set of stones similar to a sharpening stone/grinding stone or so forth that is spun as it is moved in and out of the bore... that creates "scratches" that are the glaze break that creates a rough enough surface to mate in with the rings and removes any "polishing" of the cylinder bore that would cause the rings not to wear in properly...

Which brings up another good point. If you ever store an engine you are building for a period of time you have to make sure you don't use a heavy oil or grease on the surfaces to protect it as the cast iron will actually soak it up and it can ruin the seating of the rings.

The race rings actually have a completely gapless second ring, it has two thin rings (based on what I read on their websites) that are sitting on one another so you can clock the gaps opposite of one another so there is no path for gases to pass, and thus limit blow by even more. Also, they are made out of harder and stronger materials to hold up to higher temps. I also believe they conduct heat a bit better and help cool the pistons more.

I'd be interested in sponsorships for sure... the only thing that gets tricky is with us starting up NSN motorsports to become a real company makes it a little more difficult I think. I'm working to not overlap other vendors where I can to protect their profits and their customers, and overall widen the base of things available for us all... but yeah... a sponsorship would sure help. But for now I'm getting a second job :)
 
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awesome thread steve, im looking forward to seeing your project.. that car has some serious potential.
 
TurfBurn said:
Which brings up another good point. If you ever store an engine you are building for a period of time you have to make sure you don't use a heavy oil or grease on the surfaces to protect it as the cast iron will actually soak it up and it can ruin the seating of the rings.
What would be the reason for heavy grease/oil on the surface?? protect it from rust? i have a spare in my garage, just sitting there wrapped in plastic. Any suggestion to keep it in good shape/ready to be built?
 
PaulMP3 said:
What would be the reason for heavy grease/oil on the surface?? protect it from rust? i have a spare in my garage, just sitting there wrapped in plastic. Any suggestion to keep it in good shape/ready to be built?
Yep, its for preventing rust. The rust is enough to mess up tolerances and surface quality in many cases of finely machined surfaces. When done for a short term (aka a couple days) there are certain greases that are used to make things slide together easier. However, as I said you don't want to use those if storing it for a longer time. A plastic bag is one good measure assuming it wasn't/isn't too humid inside that bag as if it is then when things cool down it will condensate and you'll get water on the block! (eek). Based on what I've been told... a good spraying and wiping down (with CLEAN paper towel only) with WD-40 works great at preventing rust and also it dispels/displaces water versus motor oil will actually trap water and cause even worse problems.

So wipe down whatever surfaces you like (especially machined ones!) with WD-40 periodically and you should stay in good shape. If you see any rust on the cylinder walls at all, have it rehoned to restore the proper wall quality.

During the build itself I"ve seen that WD-40 is used/recommended sometimes too, but motor oil also helps. There are also of course the special engine building lubricants too.
 
i want more PIC of your old engine...i was that piston and it made me cringe...so did both your rod snap and your piston crack? if thats the case thats weard...usualy i hear of only one of those but not both...aslo how mutch boost where you running when your incedent happend?
 
snowman4us said:
i want more PIC of your old engine...i was that piston and it made me cringe...so did both your rod snap and your piston crack? if thats the case thats weard...usualy i hear of only one of those but not both...aslo how mutch boost where you running when your incedent happend?
There is a whole nother thread devoted to the blown/old engine.

Here is a link to the 13th page with pictures
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70433&page=13&pp=15

It was the rod that gave way.. then the stub of it swung up and creamed the piston... then the pistons was getting nailed while wedged in the cylinder by the lobes of the crank... so a lot of damage occured.... but you can see other pics there...

I'm sort of separating the two out... keeping old engine in that thread... and new engine in here basically.. that way it is more informative! :)

but definitely rod failure previously... and was only running about 10 psi at the time... the engine had seen as much as 16 previously though before i owned it... so I think the racing and the previous boosting was just simply enough for the engine to go in the end.

Later.

Steve
 
yeah i knew about the other thread but didnt want to look thrue like 17pgs just to find the pic. but thanks for posting a link to it...
that looks pritty scary thow...
also i take it that the engine that blew is completely destroyed?
also it looks to me that the FS-DE engine is a Closed deck, is that correct, or is your gasket still on?
also on your new eninge you plan on sleaving it?
 
Subscribing... As someone who has been in the same boat as you, this info may come in handy for a future rebuild!
 
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