20lb safe or not.

yes and no. the turbo isnt efficient at 20psi OVER 5k..... thats when we let the throttle plate take care of that. when i run 21psi it still falls to 16psi at
6k. even a car with EMS will have the boost fall like that. so if you are running 18psi you will only be around 13psi at 6k, and the turbo can handle more than that. and BTW a fuel pump doesnt make it any more efficient, so i dont know what that had to do with anything. i also ran over 20psi on the stock turbo long before i got my pump upgrade. you are the posterchild for what i am talking about. people have been brainwashed into believing this nonsense. take it to a dyno and find out for yourself. i have done my fair share !

well..i wouldnt doubt u at all..do yah thang bro(breakn)
 
I run 18 psi stock on my ms6. Then it only drops off to 15 after 5500. only mods are k&n drop in, ngk 1 step colder plugs, and ign. coil stretch.
 
Just because it runs fine and you don't have any symptoms doesn't mean you aren't hurting your engine. Fatigue stress is impossible to detect until failure occurs. I don't know how close the stock settings are to infinite fatigue life or to what probability, but increasing from 16 to 18 or 20 psi is going to cause some serious increases on stress in the engine.

I'm not saying it is good or bad, or that you should or shouldn't do it, or that it will or will not break. All I'm saying is that just because you don't see anything wrong and you don't have knocking doesn't mean you aren't impacting the life of your engine.
 
If anything goes wrong, couldn't I just take off the controller and take it to the dealer, and they would never know. Also I"m thinking I will just go to 18lbs then see how that goes over, just to be on the safe side.



Look i know TURNING UP the boost sounds so easy but please don;t.

guys like you make it harder for the avergae owner to get warranty work done, because later the dealers nit pick stupid stuff.

you wanna go fast, learn how to do it PROPERLY. it takes money, if you don't have any, then tough........ Save money.

But hey when you blow the motor, besure to let me know first, i want some Ms3 parts........
 
What a horrible thread. And to the guys telling people to go and run the 20+ lbs you should jump off a cliff. Just cus you guys lasted doesn't mean they all will. Your telling people to blow their motors and just cus yours hasn't you think its cool to do so. Look over the few ms3 forums and you'll see almost all the blown motors came from running too much boost and not knowing crap about cars. If someone wants to do 20+ then let them decide that on their own. I was running 17lbs and my turbo used to struggle after 2-3 pulls and I could hear the blades rubbing.
 
I was running 17lbs and my turbo used to struggle after 2-3 pulls and I could hear the blades rubbing.

REALLY? WOW.........

If this was true your turbo would have exploded. if not exploded then it would have serious damage, thus being no where near as effective as it once was.

Ever had turbo failure? i have and when they go Boom, it REALLY goes BOOM.
 
What a horrible thread. And to the guys telling people to go and run the 20+ lbs you should jump off a cliff. Just cus you guys lasted doesn't mean they all will. Your telling people to blow their motors and just cus yours hasn't you think its cool to do so. Look over the few ms3 forums and you'll see almost all the blown motors came from running too much boost and not knowing crap about cars. If someone wants to do 20+ then let them decide that on their own. I was running 17lbs and my turbo used to struggle after 2-3 pulls and I could hear the blades rubbing.

we havent told anyone to do it, we said it can be done.....and tru has done it..........................................................(moon)
 
REALLY? WOW.........

If this was true your turbo would have exploded. if not exploded then it would have serious damage, thus being no where near as effective as it once was.

Ever had turbo failure? i have and when they go Boom, it REALLY goes BOOM.

I've had major blade housing contact on a garrett T28 it didn't explode I also couldn't hear the blades rubbing it just spooled 1000 rpm later than it should have. the turbo was so badly shot it had 1/4" of shaft play, and when I rebuilt the motor I found pieces of the sintered bronze bearing in the oil pan
 
I've had major blade housing contact on a garrett T28 it didn't explode I also couldn't hear the blades rubbing it just spooled 1000 rpm later than it should have. the turbo was so badly shot it had 1/4" of shaft play, and when I rebuilt the motor I found pieces of the sintered bronze bearing in the oil pan

how about this...20lb is not safe...n to run it on a complete stock application i think is plain stupid..get supporting mods n run da 20lb of boost..stock...prepare to hav a rod thru the block...or hav ya turbo throwing up black smoke everywhere...ur choice!
 
how about this...20lb is not safe...n to run it on a complete stock application i think is plain stupid..get supporting mods n run da 20lb of boost..stock...prepare to hav a rod thru the block...or hav ya turbo throwing up black smoke everywhere...ur choice!

oh don't get me wrong I wasn't condoning running 20 psi... hell my car is bone stock, and most likely staying that way
 
see all the misconceptions from people who have never done it ?? i was running 20+psi with nothing more than a CAI and mid pipe for god sake !! did my rods fly out ?? did driver311's motor blow when he ran 24psi ?? nope. look around at all the blown motors on this for and you will see the trends. most of them were actually stock or close to it. all the rest had a standback installed !! coinsedence.....i think not !
people need to grow some balls and try stuff. dont listen to those who will tell you its bad and have no proof. my car gaind power on a dyno and was faster on the track. was that bad ?? my motor has 20k of hard driving and runs like brand new... is that bad ?? and FYI there has only been 1 accurate flow graph for our turbo on the forums and it showed that this turbo can handle 23 psi. the other so called charts you will find are all for the VOLKSWAGEN trim k04, not ours.
 
vw and audi k04s can handle 20+ too..the stock k03s could peak 23 and hold 17 all day long, but that doesn't mean the stock k03s lasted very long... (jacked)


edit: Ive heard people on these forums blow a rod a stock boost(ohsnap!)
if you want to play, you've got to pay.
 
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see all the misconceptions from people who have never done it ?? i was running 20+psi with nothing more than a CAI and mid pipe for god sake !! did my rods fly out ?? did driver311's motor blow when he ran 24psi ?? nope. look around at all the blown motors on this for and you will see the trends. most of them were actually stock or close to it. all the rest had a standback installed !! coinsedence.....i think not !
people need to grow some balls and try stuff. dont listen to those who will tell you its bad and have no proof. my car gaind power on a dyno and was faster on the track. was that bad ?? my motor has 20k of hard driving and runs like brand new... is that bad ?? and FYI there has only been 1 accurate flow graph for our turbo on the forums and it showed that this turbo can handle 23 psi. the other so called charts you will find are all for the VOLKSWAGEN trim k04, not ours.
One car running fine at 20psi does not prove it's safe for everyone to run 20psi. It's not a matter of "having the balls" that makes a motor work well or not, it's a matter of the build on the motor. You can end up with a "Friday motor" and spin rod bearing at stock boost, or you can run the damn thing out to redline at 20psi and be fine... The point is, no one should believe they'll be just fine cranking up the boost just because you are.

Remember, the car is always fastest right before it blows up. I wouldn't suggest doing *anything* to the motor unless you're willing and able to pony up for a complete new motor out of pocket if something goes wrong.
 
BRO WTF you fags always say this that and w-e and the put " nuff said " (ghey)

its ******* annoying (group)

I can tell that you had trouble enough forming a sentence, yet alone having it make sense BRO. The MS3 isn't the end all be all. They are decently good daily drivers, but you will never see people run crazy numbers on stock internals for long
 
What a horrible thread. And to the guys telling people to go and run the 20+ lbs you should jump off a cliff. Just cus you guys lasted doesn't mean they all will. Your telling people to blow their motors and just cus yours hasn't you think its cool to do so. Look over the few ms3 forums and you'll see almost all the blown motors came from running too much boost and not knowing crap about cars. If someone wants to do 20+ then let them decide that on their own. I was running 17lbs and my turbo used to struggle after 2-3 pulls and I could hear the blades rubbing.

No one is saying to go blow your motors or boost outrageous numbers. You yourself said it, in lamens terms, but altering with a vehicle without the proper knowledge is like russian roullette. OP asked a question and both sides of the story answered. 20psi is not an unreasonable number. Especially since i'm boosting 18 with any concerns 12k
 
No one is saying to go blow your motors or boost outrageous numbers. You yourself said it, in lamens terms, but altering with a vehicle without the proper knowledge is like russian roullette. OP asked a question and both sides of the story answered. 20psi is not an unreasonable number. Especially since i'm boosting 18 with any concerns 12k
Just because you don't have concerns doesn't mean your motor isn't at risk.

What sort of AFRs are you seeing? What's your injector duty cycle look like? EGTs? How does ambient temps/humidity affect these parameters? What about altitude? etc, etc, etc.

There are a ton of things you need to validate over a lot more than 12k miles to be sure a tune is safe. This is in fact the biggest reason places like Cobb take *forever* to release their staged kits upon the masses... because they want to be reasonably sure that no one's going to blow up their motor running their stuff. Anyone that's not going through those steps needs to qualify their claims about cranking up the boost with a "your mileage may vary" and "try it at your own risk".

IMO, just turning up the boost is *never* a good idea. Step one is getting all the proper gauges (boost, EGT, wideband O2 at a minimum) so you can analyze the health of the motor. Step two is making sure you've done everything to support that extra boost: usually that means making sure you won't run out of fuel, which means larger injectors and a bigger fuel pump (unless the MS3 injectors are only running a 50-60% duty cycle at the factory boost levels, and even then you may still need a fuel pump). Then you need the ability to remap the spark/fuel tables to properly match the additional boost, so you're looking at an AP or similar engine management. Now you can turn up the boost.

At least if you want to do it properly. Or you can go the DSM route and hit your wastegate with a hammer and run 13s until crankwalk parks your Eclipse in the junk yard.
 

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