2021 CX-5 W/ Bose Flat Signal Output?

Does anyone know if the signal coming out of the head unit is flat? I added an aftermarket sub, and first made a set of pig tails and T'd off the wires for the sub in the trunk...signal was clearly heavily rolled off/processed. I then ordered a harness made for GM vehicles with Bose, used one set of connectors and T'd off under the passenger seat, before the signal went into the Bose Amplifier, hoping the signal would be flat/clean there...to no avail. It still sounds rolled off/processed pre-bose amp. I'm wondering if anyone has tested the signal coming out of the head unit, prior to the Tuner Amp Unit, or does anyone know what the Tuner Amp Unit actually "does"? Meaning, is the TAU processing the head unit signal, or just acting as a junction box? At the end of the day, I'm trying to figure out if T'ing in prior to the TAU will have any "greater" effect in getting a flat/unprocessed/un-rolled off signal to carry back to my amp/sub. Other option I've read about is getting something like a Dayton DSP-408. Right now I have a frankenstein system with an old kenwood amp (no speaker level inputs), a Audiocontrol LC7i (leftover from another project, silly I know since I'm only using the sub channel) and JL 12w3. Everything's installed so swapping the LC7i for a DSP wouldn't be too terribly hard, I'd just rather make a T harness pre-TAU if it'll save me $100+ dollars. Thanks in advance if you've read this far, cheers!
 
I cannot speak for the new Bose head units, but the older ones, yes the head unit was flat before the amp. Fact is, on the old units, the signal coming out of the HU before it hit the amp was a low wattage, high impedance signal, exactly the same signal that RCA's carry, just without the RCA ends.

You will need to use an RTA to measure the signal for yourself. The DIY Audio Guy has a video on how to make an inexpensive one.
 
I cannot speak for the new Bose head units, but the older ones, yes the head unit was flat before the amp. Fact is, on the old units, the signal coming out of the HU before it hit the amp was a low wattage, high impedance signal, exactly the same signal that RCA's carry, just without the RCA ends.

You will need to use an RTA to measure the signal for yourself. The DIY Audio Guy has a video on how to make an inexpensive one.
Yeahhhhh, I had my hopes up that maybe somebody had done this to save me the trouble lol. From my lamens understanding of DSP's you'd need an RTA to "truly" (not just by ear with test tones) tune one anyways, so I guess therein lies my only option. Fingers crossed the signal is flat coming out of the head unit like previous generations to save me from having to get a DSP too, but we'll see!
 
From my lamens understanding of DSP's you'd need an RTA to "truly" (not just by ear with test tones) tune one anyways

This is correct. I knew exactly one guy who could tune without the use of an RTA. He was absolutely amazing. But that is just so, so rare.

For my tuning, I use a UMIK-1 hooked to my laptop and run REW software.
 
This is correct. I knew exactly one guy who could tune without the use of an RTA. He was absolutely amazing. But that is just so, so rare.

For my tuning, I use a UMIK-1 hooked to my laptop and run REW software.
Thanks for the advice I'll give it a gander. Possible that he had perfect pitch? Took psychology of music in college and while real perfect pitch is exceedingly rare, it's not impossible/unheard of. That or he just did a lot of amp tuning by ear lmao.
 
Real perfect pitch is exceedingly rare, it's not impossible/unheard of. That or he just did a lot of amp tuning by ear lmao.
I think it was a combination of both. He tuned several World Championship in sound quality winning cars. He sadly passed away several years ago, but trust me, he's missed. Guy was a true class act.
 
Does anyone know if the signal coming out of the head unit is flat? I added an aftermarket sub, and first made a set of pig tails and T'd off the wires for the sub in the trunk...signal was clearly heavily rolled off/processed. I then ordered a harness made for GM vehicles with Bose, used one set of connectors and T'd off under the passenger seat, before the signal went into the Bose Amplifier, hoping the signal would be flat/clean there...to no avail. It still sounds rolled off/processed pre-bose amp. I'm wondering if anyone has tested the signal coming out of the head unit, prior to the Tuner Amp Unit, or does anyone know what the Tuner Amp Unit actually "does"? Meaning, is the TAU processing the head unit signal, or just acting as a junction box? At the end of the day, I'm trying to figure out if T'ing in prior to the TAU will have any "greater" effect in getting a flat/unprocessed/un-rolled off signal to carry back to my amp/sub. Other option I've read about is getting something like a Dayton DSP-408. Right now I have a frankenstein system with an old kenwood amp (no speaker level inputs), a Audiocontrol LC7i (leftover from another project, silly I know since I'm only using the sub channel) and JL 12w3. Everything's installed so swapping the LC7i for a DSP wouldn't be too terribly hard, I'd just rather make a T harness pre-TAU if it'll save me $100+ dollars. Thanks in advance if you've read this far, cheers!

You may want to take a look over at the Miata forum for info. The infotainment systems for the MX and the CX are nearly identical (minus the center chan), in some cases. I have a 2016 MX and a 2016.5 CX and the Bose systems are the same.

The reason that I suggest checking the MX forum is because some folks there have already done what you're wanting to do, and you can probably get the info you're looking for there.

 
You may want to take a look over at the Miata forum for info. The infotainment systems for the MX and the CX are nearly identical (minus the center chan), in some cases. I have a 2016 MX and a 2016.5 CX and the Bose systems are the same.

The reason that I suggest checking the MX forum is because some folks there have already done what you're wanting to do, and you can probably get the info you're looking for there.

Thanks for the heads up! I’ll head over there and do some digging, much appreciated!
 
Did you ever figure it out? I am looking to do a full (removable) overhaul.
Nothing further right now. It’s hooked up with the t-harness I bought/converted. Too cold where I’m at to be outside working on it without a garage lol. Plan on tackling it come spring and testing the signal pre-Tau then. Fingers crossed that it’s (very unlikely at this point i think) being rolled off by the TAU and not the HU. If it’s the head unit, a DSP is in my future lol
 
I am gonna use a DSP regardless - Helix V Eight.

A couple questions if you could answer them:
1. Did you find the wiring diagram?
2. How did you figure out the sub input to the bose amp was also rolled off?

I am asking the second question because of: 2014-2018* Mazda 6 (and 2014-2016 Mazda 3) w/BOSE Full...
1. I paid the $30 for 24 hours of access to the dealer repair site and yes I have the wiring diagrams/schematics.
2. When i first installed, i pig tailed off the sub wires in trunk, result was rolled off. I used a GM bose harness and T’d in right before the bose amp and ran wires to the trunk/aftermarket amp. One caveat is the input i used was from a door speaker signal as the sub signal was on a different connector i didnt have, so i wanna tap the wires for sub before bose amp to make sure, but the door speaker signal sounds exactly the same pre-bose as the sub signal sounds post-bose, making me think its the head unit sending out a processed signal.
 
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