Hi All,
First real time posting on this forum so I apologize if I make any mistakes, feel free to yell at me a boo me off the stage...
I have a 2017 Mazda Cx-5 GT and long story short the diff seals are leaking as a result of bad bearings in the diff. From what I can tell they are internally pressed, so everyone just suggests replacing the whole diff rather than a rebuild. Neither the diff or coupler is making noise during operation so its really a shame I cannot just remove and press in new bearings and seals.
I found a brand new diff from a mazda dealer at $800 shipped but it is without the viscous coupler. I'm curious if these have to be connected software wise at all, and if there's anything to watch out for when switching the coupler to the new differential. I see what looks to be a spring washer in the diagram but want to make sure the things not going to disassemble itself rapidly if I remove it. As well as if there is any reprogramming or axis/timing that may need to be done before/after the installation.
There's alot of posts about the differential failures but not one that I could find on a mechanical diagram/ advisory or "How-To" for replacement
Please feel free to ask questions.
135k miles when it started leaking, and I tow fairly often and am known to expect alot (mechanically on my vehicles). But have replaced the diff fluid around 60k miles, and expect to refill this with the mazda haploid oil as well.
First real time posting on this forum so I apologize if I make any mistakes, feel free to yell at me a boo me off the stage...
I have a 2017 Mazda Cx-5 GT and long story short the diff seals are leaking as a result of bad bearings in the diff. From what I can tell they are internally pressed, so everyone just suggests replacing the whole diff rather than a rebuild. Neither the diff or coupler is making noise during operation so its really a shame I cannot just remove and press in new bearings and seals.
I found a brand new diff from a mazda dealer at $800 shipped but it is without the viscous coupler. I'm curious if these have to be connected software wise at all, and if there's anything to watch out for when switching the coupler to the new differential. I see what looks to be a spring washer in the diagram but want to make sure the things not going to disassemble itself rapidly if I remove it. As well as if there is any reprogramming or axis/timing that may need to be done before/after the installation.
There's alot of posts about the differential failures but not one that I could find on a mechanical diagram/ advisory or "How-To" for replacement
Please feel free to ask questions.
135k miles when it started leaking, and I tow fairly often and am known to expect alot (mechanically on my vehicles). But have replaced the diff fluid around 60k miles, and expect to refill this with the mazda haploid oil as well.
