2016 CX-5 Starter Issue

TLDR: Car wouldn't start, jump started it, got the battery inspected and found no issues. Tech at Advanced Auto Parts said that the starter was showing low voltage, its a bad connection, bad ground connection, or its toast.

Info: 2016 CX-5 Touring, ~66k miles, I am the second owner, bought used in April last year.

This morning, I walked to my car and pressed the keyless entry button on the drivers side (as usual) and it wouldn't open. I clicked the button on the remote and heard the locking mechanism click but the doors remained locked. So, I took out the key for manual entry and got it unlocked. It still wouldn't start. After many attempts, I had to call a friend and get the car jumpstarted. It did turn on, but the initial start sounded strained. Let the car run for almost an hour before taking it to the local Advanced Auto Parts and they tested the battery and said that the starter motor showed a low voltage but battery tested fine. Is there anything I should be checking for when I look into the starter motor connection? Could this still be a bad battery issue? I don't know if the battery has ever been replaced.

Edit (from reply to HyFlyer):
The physical key inside the fob allowed access to the car. The remote buttons on the fob or the keyless entry button on the door handle would not unlock the car either.

Car would not crank at all. The Start/Stop button was flashing green, then amber. The speedometer and RPM gauge would go from the '0' position to the maximum and fall back. Indoor lights, hazards, etc. also did not work.
 
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Could this still be a bad battery issue? I don't know if the battery has ever been replaced.
This could be an important 'clue' as to what is happening. Also the charge of the battery can be influenced by the temperature.
If you find out that the date code on the battery indicates it is the original battery it could be over 8 years old. Even if it has been replaced once, it could be 4 years old.
 
If you're unsure about the age of the battery, I'd start there and replace it. If it's the OEM battery, it's time anyway. If not, it sure sounds like a battery issue to me.

Do you have a proper battery charger/tender? The battery needs to be fully charged in any case.

Do you have multimeter to check the battery voltage and the charging voltage yourself? A fully charged battery should be in the 12.5vcd range with the car off. Once started, the reading should be over 14vdc which shows that the alternator is supplying the correct charging voltage.
 
This could be an important 'clue' as to what is happening. Also the charge of the battery can be influenced by the temperature.
If you find out that the date code on the battery indicates it is the original battery it could be over 8 years old. Even if it has been replaced once, it could be 4 years old.
I will look into the date code on the battery. I think its the battery for sure as well.
 
If you're unsure about the age of the battery, I'd start there and replace it. If it's the OEM battery, it's time anyway. If not, it sure sounds like a battery issue to me.

Do you have a proper battery charger/tender? The battery needs to be fully charged in any case.

Do you have multimeter to check the battery voltage and the charging voltage yourself? A fully charged battery should be in the 12.5vcd range with the car off. Once started, the reading should be over 14vdc which shows that the alternator is supplying the correct charging voltage.
I don't own any of the equipment but I do have friends in town that have the right tools and are handy when it comes to cars. I will keep you posted!
 
Door handle request button didn't work, remote button didn't work but key did, wouldn't start ("many attempts" but what does that mean? No crank? Crank but no start? Slow crank? ) But does start with a jump.

This all points to a low battery to me. If it's a Panasonic brand battery it's likely original or OEM at least.

I doubt it needs a new starter. I'd look at the battery and connections first.
 
Door handle request button didn't work, remote button didn't work but key did, wouldn't start ("many attempts" but what does that mean? No crank? Crank but no start? Slow crank? ) But does start with a jump.

This all points to a low battery to me. If it's a Panasonic brand battery it's likely original or OEM at least.

I doubt it needs a new starter. I'd look at the battery and connections first.
Sorry about not having more info in the original post. The physical key inside the fob allowed access to the car. The remote buttons on the fob or the keyless entry button on the door handle would not unlock the car either.

Car would not crank at all. The Start/Stop button was flashing green, then amber. The speedometer and RPM gauge would go from the '0' position to the maximum and fall back. Indoor lights, hazards, etc. also did not work.

Thanks for the info on the Panasonic brand battery. I will take a look at it later today and update!
 
Over on the MX forum someone is having a similar issue with their Miata.

The BIG problem for that guy is that he pulled his marginal battery out of the car, manually locked his doors and then closed the doors AND the hood.

Normally, that wouldn't be a problem, right? Just pull the key out of the fob and unlock the door with the key. Not for this poor guy. It seems that there was a mechanical issue between the manual operation of the key and the locking/unlocking mechanism inside of the door. The key just turned in the lock with nothing happening.

The guy had to use one of these inflatable bladders to create a gap between the windows so that a rod could be used to move the lock button on the opposite door into the unlocked position.
 

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