2016 CX-5 Clunk

Hello, I have a 2016 CX-5 with a clunk coming from the front driver's side. The car handles fine. There's no fluid/oil on the strut and no excessive bouncing. I've done the screwdriver test pushing up on the tire to see if there is any movement in the lower ball joint and there was none. Nothing feels loose. I decided to change the end links because it was cheap and easy. Clunk still there. The clunk is only present over rough roads, but not over something like a speed bump, which makes me think it's not the strut. The two black bushings on the swaybar look fine. Any ideas?
 
The classic answer for the is the lower control arm. I know you said you tested it, but take the wheel off and do a visual check anyway. Even then, there was a recent thread where the owner couldn't see anything wrong, but he eventually replaced the LCA and that fixed the issue.

EDIT: See here: I'm guessing the CV joint. Anyone disagree?
 
if it's not the ball joint in the control arm, it could be the bushing.

since both end links are new and tight (assuming they are torqued down correctly), and the sway bar bushings are not cracked, only other thing i could think of would be the tie rods or strut mounts.
 
Hello, I have a 2016 CX-5 with a clunk coming from ...

Key question, too: what sort of driving behaviors, specifically, seem to cause the "clunking" sounds?

  • Driving slowly around in a parking lot, over little surface imperfections and minor potholes?
  • Driving into or out of driveways, where the angle/elevation change induces suspension movement?
  • Driving at a steady speed on the highway and striking "seams" or "expansion joints" on the roadway?
  • Simply stopping the car from moving, or starting to move after stopped?

If you have only noticed it over "rough" roads, then it might well occur during anytime the vehicle is going cross-ways around an angle/elevation change, as with coming into or out of a parking area that has a sloped entry, or going into or out of a shallow pothole (as you're navigating gingerly through it).

A year ago, I had a similar non-specific "clunk" sound. Was almost certain it was the bushings in the LCAs and/or the ball joints. Replaced both the LCAs and tie rod ends, both sides, and all those noises disappeared. But other parts wearing or failing can also cause similar noises. It's getting time for me to do the shocks, so I'm going to go through all the parts at that time.

Classic areas to check include: the ball joints; the front lower control arms; the stabilizer bar link; a broken lower spring insulator (at the base of the spring); a broken upper mount strut bearing; loose bolts anchoring the front strut mounts to the body; the cowl bolts (at the air intake region of the cowl at the base of the windshield.
 
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Key question, too: what sort of driving behaviors, specifically, seem to cause the "clunking" sounds?

  • Driving slowly around in a parking lot, over little surface imperfections and minor potholes?
  • Driving into or out of driveways, where the angle/elevation change induces suspension movement?
  • Driving at a steady speed on the highway and striking "seams" or "expansion joints" on the roadway?
  • Simply stopping the car from moving, or starting to move after stopped?

If you have only noticed it over "rough" roads, then it might well occur during anytime the vehicle is going cross-ways around an angle/elevation change, as with coming into or out of a parking area that has a sloped entry, or going into or out of a shallow pothole (as you're navigating gingerly through it).

A year ago, I had a similar non-specific "clunk" sound. Was almost certain it was the bushings in the LCAs and/or the ball joints. Replaced both the LCAs and tie rod ends, both sides, and all those noises disappeared. But other parts wearing or failing can also cause similar noises. It's getting time for me to do the shocks, so I'm going to go through all the parts at that time.

Classic areas to check include: the ball joints; the front lower control arms; the stabilizer bar link; a broken lower spring insulator (at the base of the spring); a broken upper mount strut bearing; loose bolts anchoring the front strut mounts to the body; the cowl bolts (at the air intake region of the cowl at the base of the windshield.
It's only over rough roads. It doesn't happen when turning or even going over speed bumps. I'm leaning toward LCA after reading the replies.
 
Yes, it sounds like metal in metal.
It could be the rubber spring isolator/silencer. They can wear over time or get pushed out of place. When that happens, you hear metal on metal clanking.

There is a lower and upper one. To replace them, you must remove the coilover and decompress them.


You can see mine came off, near the end of the video. That causes the sound I'm describing.
 
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It really kind of seems that this is just a "keep replacing parts until the issue goes away" type scenario. I've read quite a few posts where even taking it into a shop it's been a crap shoot. So, would most agree that I should go with the LCA and I'm thinking maybe the strut mount?
 
It really kind of seems that this is just a "keep replacing parts until the issue goes away" type scenario.
Absolutely not.
I've read quite a few posts where even taking it into a shop it's been a crap shoot.
Rarely heard of such a thing, not with front suspension.

My mechanic will immediately pinpoint what is loose. Once, they stated that "Everything is tight, noticed some play in the sway bar bushings, quoted me massive labor time to replace because dropping the subframe is necessary to access them, don't bother."
So, would most agree that I should go with the LCA and I'm thinking maybe the strut mount?

Not until you know it for sure! Call around until you find a mechanic who doesn't mind/ can find the time to bring the car up on the hoist and inspect each component in the front suspension for play, right in front of you.

It's really not rocket science to check a few different components for wear. Don't just throw parts at the car.
 
It really kind of seems that this is just a "keep replacing parts until the issue goes away" type scenario. I've read quite a few posts where even taking it into a shop it's been a crap shoot. So, would most agree that I should go with the LCA and I'm thinking maybe the strut mount?
Do you have a jack and the ability to remove your wheels? If so, check the springs like I showed in the video above. You should be able to see if they are out of place. Who knows, you may spot something else while you're in there.
 
Do you have a jack and the ability to remove your wheels? If so, check the springs like I showed in the video above. You should be able to see if they are out of place. Who knows, you may spot something else while you're in there.
I had the wheels off yesterday when I changed the end links. I've tried to wiggle everything I could. Couldn't recreate the noise or see anything out of place. I'm just going to take it into the shop and see what they say. I appreciate the replies.
 
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