2015 Touring - Cheapest options?

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Hello all, first post here. I picked up a 2015 Touring a little while back; 6 speakers, no Bose. I've been reading through a bunch of posts here trying to determine what my options are for fixing the muddy bass - the problem is, I know approximately zero about car audio. I've seen people talk about things ranging from:

Power Pack
New speakers
New speakers + amp
New speakers + amp + head unit
New speakers + amp + head unit + sub


I'm having a hard time deciding which would fit my needs best. I don't often listen to really bassy music - I just want my bass to be clear. Also, I'm on a budget. As in, the more expensive this is, the more guns I have to sell. I think that pretty much eliminates anything requiring a replacement of the head unit.

So what are your recommendations? I think a sub is probably overkill, but I'd entertain the option if it's the best way to get clear bass response.

Thanks!

 

[squibcakes]

How tight is a tight budget?

Basically for descent sound on a budget you need:

1: A good pair of 6.5" component speakers for the front which will replace the mid drivers in the doors and the tweeters in the dash. Ideally a componnet set with passive crossovers. For decent clear bass repsonse expect to pay around $300+
2: An ampilfier. As minimum I would get a 4 channel amp that can be bridged that gives you a few options: Bridged 2 channel for the front speakers, or 3 Channel mode for a few subwoofer. $350+

Forget the rear door speakers - rear fill is for girls and not needed and wasted money that can be put towards higher quality fronts.

I myself went a 5 channel amp, bridged 4 channels for the front and 5 channel for the sub fromthe factory HU via a LOC convertor and sounds great.

Also, allow some cash for cables, fuse holder, etc. If you go cheap on speakers and amps, you will end up living with poor sounding system or will spend more money and time replacing your first attempt.

$1000 these days will get you very good setup that doesn't break the bank.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Thanks for the info. That's probably more than I would be able to afford. Aren't there speakers that I could install without requiring an amp? Or will those speakers not have good enough bass?

Say I went with your original suggestions for speakers and amplifiers (I'd probably have to pay someone to install it all, too). Would I be able to keep the stock head unit?

If the questions I'm asking are too basic, just let me know - I just figured I would try to work out some of my options before taking it to a shop for their suggestions.

 

[tibimakai]

Right now(I will be upgrading soon), I have replaced the four door speakers with two pairs of Infinity Primus 6.5" component speakers and a pair of Polk Audio 3.5" for the dash and I'm very happy with this setup.
I have purchased these during holidays when these speakers were on sale. At Best Buy I have purchased a pair of Infinity speakers and the second pair it was free($129 !!). The Polks were $24.99 w/free shipping from crutchfield.com.
If you have components, you most likely don't need the dash speakers replaced.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P6500CS/Infinity-Primus-PR6500cs.html?tp=106
$40+Sh/H
http://www.beachaudio.com/Polk-Audio/Db351-p-704483.html

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Interesting. So just to be clear - you kept the factory head unit and didn't add an aftermarket amplifier? A few hundred dollars is easily do-able...

 

[squibcakes]

The factory speakers are rated 25W (probably more like 15W) as is the radio output.

You don't need an amp to drive new speakers - but they will never reach their full potential - and they will sound like that - lack bass, muddy mids.

Try replacing the speakers first and drive off the head, and while your add it fit some sound deadening material to the doors.

There may be improvement, but as others and I on this forum have found - fitting new speakers actually had lower bass then the factory speakers until an amp was fitted.

It might be worth fitting a new HU with high power out with new speakers to save fitting an amp - but that route has it's drawbacks too....

Keep asking questions and more people will have good ideas for you...

 

[tibimakai]

I'm pretty happy with the bass I'm getting, with these speakers and my settings are at the middle(0) only. Tweeters setting is at -2.
I will be installing amps and sub, because I already have them, but to tell you the truth, if I knew that I will end up with so good sound only with speaker replacement, I would not have purchase them.
Try some speakers first and see if you are fine with them, you can still upgrade later, when you will have more funds.
I have purchased two broken amps from the bay and repaired them. They were around $40 each and a couple of dollars of parts. They are Polk Audio PA660 and PA880. Picked up a JL Audio 10TW3-D4 brand new from CL for $200.
Same I did with a Kenwood DNX6990HD, I have picked it up broken(rebooting issue) from the bay for $125 shipped with all the accessories, sent out for repair for $140(including tax and shipping)(there is an Ebay seller) and now I have a perfectly good working head unit, for $265.
I had to buy steering wheel adapter for $92 and the rest is mounting kit, antenna adapter, 0 and 4 gauge Knu Konzept wires, fuses, distro block, ground block.
I have purchased them, step by step. Now I have everything, I just need some time to install all this. I have never went so far, with a stereo upgrade like with this car.
I have managed to repair some of this hardware, because my hobby and side work is LCD TV repair, home theater receiver repair, etc.

 

[katman]

You can upgrade cheaply and still sound pretty good. I replaced the entire sound system on my GTO for around $500. The Clarion HU I got on sale for around $200, the Infinity speakers were around $150 close out, rear sub woofers were $110 off of ebay, rca cables came cheap from Walmart, don't recall the cost of the steering wheel adapter, the power amp for my subs was a 23 year old Sony plate amp, sitting in the garage.
If you go with efficient speakers, you won't need an amp to drive them; just drive them with the amp in the HU, it is probably enough to drive them as safe hearing levels without noticeable distortion. It is the sub that needs power.
For a cheap sub, either go with what's on CL (I bet most of that stuff is stolen!) or online for close out stuff (I have a new Coustic amp in the box that I got cheap a year ago).
Funny thing about CL, I saw someone selling the same Sony amp I have, a nice 23 year old 40w amp and the ad said $50 or "4/20 friendly"!

 

[JonW]

I recently upgraded the front door speakers to 8in. Lanza VX830s, replaced the dash tweeters with Polk DB351s, and installed an Alpine KTP-445U amp. All ordered via Amazon.com the total cost was less than $250 including some foam speaker baffle cups, an Add-a-fuse, and Molex connectors.

The sound is rich, full, clearer, and very much improved. I'll be posting a new thread with pictures or the amp install and sound samples in the next day or two.

 

[Rich 65]

I know exactly where you are coming from - I was in the same boat many years ago. If budget is tight and you are still not sure what would make you happy go to Crutchfield and upgrade just the speakers. You can get decent inexpensive speakers and save on labor for the installation since they provide instructions and all the needed hardware. Even the cheapest speakers will sound 101% better than the stock ones. You can spend $thousands on car audio (just like wheels and tires) but only you can determine if you need to do so. From there you can decide if you need to upgrade the head unit, add an amp etc.

 

[katman]

I know exactly where you are coming from - I was in the same boat many years ago. If budget is tight and you are still not sure what would make you happy go to Crutchfield and upgrade just the speakers. You can get decent inexpensive speakers and save on labor for the installation since they provide instructions and all the needed hardware. Even the cheapest speakers will sound 101% better than the stock ones. You can spend $thousands on car audio (just like wheels and tires) but only you can determine if you need to do so. From there you can decide if you need to upgrade the head unit, add an amp etc.

The problem with Crutchfield is that you can usually get the same stuff for less elsewhere. The nice thing about Crutchfield are their instructions- the ones for my Pontiac detailed exactly how to remove door panals and stuff. If you don't need that, shop elsewhere. However, they are really good and make sure to ask for them.
Good sound for cheap is a nice, fun challenge.
Currently, I have a '96 Impala I am restoring with stock Delco hu. I am stock piling parts for the day I will gut the interior and replace the stock hu with a double din with rear view cam.
With your CX5, if you just want good, non competition loudness, it shouldn't be too hard to keep it cheap. With bass, yes, you don't need a lot of it, but what you get should be of good quality, low and tight, just not a lot of output. Be sure to report back when done!

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Thanks for all the info, guys. I asked for some suggestions from a local shop and this is what he said:

4x Stinger HPFs - $20
2 channel Pro LOC - $25
250 watt PG sub amp with level control - $180
RE Audio 10" subwoofer - $75
Custom Built Box - $125
Amp Wiring - $100 (I only use OFC wiring, which is more expensive, but well worth it. As far as I know every other shop in town uses CCA wiring, which is garbage in a car.)
Labor $100

What do you guys think? Are the Mazda speakers going to be decent enough to keep with a high pass filter? Any modifications you would make to his suggestions?

 

[squibcakes]

Are the Mazda speakers going to be decent enough to keep with a high pass filter? Any modifications you would make to his suggestions?

No - the Mazda speakers are rubbish. Adding a filter to these speakers will do squat.

 

[Rich 65]

All basic car speakers are paper coned crap. Can't see adding a 250 w amp to basic speakers. No tweeters?

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

All basic car speakers are paper coned crap. Can't see adding a 250 w amp to basic speakers. No tweeters?

The amp is just for the sub. The four bigger stock speakers have high pass filters on them. The two stock tweeters are still there.


Yes, I decided to go ahead and stick with the setup I posted earlier. Squibcakes, if you're reading this, you're probably wondering why I went against your advice. The simple answer is money.

I ended up getting everything installed for $600. It sounds great. I don't know if most people listen to their music at 300db, but I have mine as loud as I can stand it with no distortion from the stock speakers, and most of all, the bass sounds CLEAR. That was my whole goal going into it, and the downfiring, sealed, fiberglassed, custom box delivers. It's less than a cubic foot, and I can unplug it and take it out if I absolutely need more storage space.

"But TheDoubleDeuce, I have more discerning ears than you do." Well, that may be so, but I've been a musician for ten years and I can at least determine what decent audio quality sounds like.

As an added bonus, with my sub level control knob, I can really crank this thing up. It's capable of more bass than I would have thought possible out of a single 10" in an SUV. It tangibly vibrates your insides.

Maybe I'm preaching to the choir here. I just wanted to come back to say that I'm absolutely impressed, I'm glad I didn't spend the extra money on component speakers AND a sub. I had 4 component speakers installed in my truck, with a head unit and amp, and I would much rather go with this option if I was on a budget.

 

[V8toilet]

With my first CX5 sport I only installed Pioneer tweeters in the dash ($30) and they improved the clarity greatly. You may want to try that First. I know the Touring has tweeters stock in the front dash but the Pioneer tweeters are way better.

They were Pioneer TS-T110 7/8-Inch Hard-Dome Tweeter (Pair) available on Amazon here. https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)

 

[squibcakes]

What kind of component speakers did you run in your truck, factory speakers also?

Glad you like the upgraded improvement so far.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

With my first CX5 sport I only installed Pioneer tweeters in the dash ($30) and they improved the clarity greatly. You may want to try that First. I know the Touring has tweeters stock in the front dash but the Pioneer tweeters are way better.

They were Pioneer TS-T110 7/8-Inch Hard-Dome Tweeter (Pair) available on Amazon here. https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)

I have the Touring - do you think I could just pop the covers off, unplug the current tweeters, and plug those in?

 

[tibimakai]

They have a special plug, you won't be able to do that.
I have cut that plug and soldered the wires to the speakers.

 

[atoz350]

I'm new here, but have been lurking for a while. I'm not new to car audio and have been engineering car audio systems for over a decade. Muddy bass is usually a result of poor insulation and audio reflections making their way back through the speaker cone. Upgrading speakers can fix this if you are upgrading to a denser cone material, usually at the cost of power handling. A cheaper way of fixing this is by adding acoustic dampening to absorb the sound reflections.

http://www.parts-express.com/acoust...-foam-1-1-2-x-12-x-12-2-pieces-ul-94--260-517

Putting these against the far wall behind your door speakers will greatly increase midbass and eliminate muddiness. Additional butyl compound dampening such as Dynamat will reduce resonating doors. You will want to make an effort to isolate the front waves from the back as much as possible, though the egg crate foam usually does a good job of absorbing rear standing waves. An additional foam gasket around the front of the speaker will isolate door card resonance and focus more music into the cabin of the car.

This is not to say that the stock stereo on the CX-5 cannot be improved with better components, but the cheapest and most effective solution is to fix the installation.