2006 Mazda 5 Sport VVT Kit

LACzar

Member
:
2006 Mazda 5 Sport
Hello,

Does anybody know of some company that assemblies a VVT kit for the 2006 Mazda 5 Sport, 2.3L engine with all the needed parts? Also, where can you get the special tools needed to time the engine after the repair? Finally, do you have good source for a repair manual which can walk me through the steps?

Thanks,
LACzar
 
You're looking for a kit to repair the VVT that the car already has right? What led you to surmise that the valve timing isn't working right? I ask because there is also a variable intake runner system on the 2.3l engine that can give similar symptoms and is MUCH more likely to fail than the VVTsystem. Any CEL or trouble codes stored in the ECU?
 
You're looking for a kit to repair the VVT that the car already has right? What led you to surmise that the valve timing isn't working right? I ask because there is also a variable intake runner system on the 2.3l engine that can give similar symptoms and is MUCH more likely to fail than the VVTsystem. Any CEL or trouble codes stored in the ECU?

No codes, but i can hear a rattle @ start-up then it goes away. I have read here and other forums that the VVT could be a source of my noise under the hood. The car has 52K miles on it and is in pretty good shape and would like to bring it back with me to the States one day. I am looking to fix and not any performance parts right now.
 
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There are a multitude of other things that could be causing a rattle at start-up. I would run down all of those before trying to dig into the trouble and expense of addressing the VVT system that may not even be the root of your issue. Just to scratch the surface here, how about: Oil change?, When?, What type of oil? Any past issues with oil consumption/use? Does it smoke, ever?, Fuel injectors can click pretty fiercely at cold start-up, that sound usually fades away after the engine is warm. The drive belt (serpentine) idler pulley and tensioner will sometimes tick when they are getting on in age, but those will not fade away but get louder/faster with engine RPM. The VVT would also evince other syptoms like loss of power up high on the tach where the switch to the more aggressive valve lift profile would be felt.
 
Sounds like your intake runners are sticking a little bit. Unfortunately they are built into the intake manifold and they are not serviceable. The only way to fix them is to replace the intake manifold. My old wagon used to make the clicking noise, although not too loud but just enough to annoy me, sounded like it needed a valve adjustment.
 
There are a multitude of other things that could be causing a rattle at start-up. I would run down all of those before trying to dig into the trouble and expense of addressing the VVT system that may not even be the root of your issue. Just to scratch the surface here, how about: Oil change?, When?, What type of oil? Any past issues with oil consumption/use? Does it smoke, ever?, Fuel injectors can click pretty fiercely at cold start-up, that sound usually fades away after the engine is warm. The drive belt (serpentine) idler pulley and tensioner will sometimes tick when they are getting on in age, but those will not fade away but get louder/faster with engine RPM. The VVT would also evince other syptoms like loss of power up high on the tach where the switch to the more aggressive valve lift profile would be felt.

I have only owned the car for a month. For an oil change, I should be doing one within the next month along with an oil filter adapter conversion. I am assuming 5W20 (no record). No smoke or oil use. I just received a new thermostat to change too. I had to fix the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid that sit on the side of the intake manifold to correct a P2004 code. The car does not go over 30mph on the roads here and I have a 6 mile round trip to work/home/work each day. How do you check the VVT?
 
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The car does not go over 30mph on the roads here and I have a 6 mile round trip to work/home/work each day.

So you live at work and visit your home? Somehow, I don't find that all surprising with the way we Americans have gotten so reclusive and career-obsessed, not to mention the post-Great-recession expectations by employers that employees do the work of 2 or 3 laid-off positions.
If I had to drive 6 miles never exceeding 30mph, I'd turn into Kirk Douglas and do a Falling Down impersonation!
 
"God Bless the Working Stiff!!!" See, I'm exactly the opposite, I have a 76 mile ONE WAY commute to work and would just about sell my soul for a 6 mile round trip at this point. Life is too damn short to spend that much of ones life just getting to work, but then I'm sorta biased LOL. To the OP, I can't help with troubleshooting the VVT, I have no experience actually trying to diagnose it.
 
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IMHO, if I had a 6 mile commute to work. I'd invest in a nice road bike or mountain bike depending on the terrain and ride to work. Save gas, and put in a workout.
 
"God Bless the Working Stiff!!!" See, I'm exactly the opposite, I have a 76 mile ONE WAY commute to work and would just about sell my soul for a 6 mile round trip at this point. Life is too damn short to spend that much of ones life just getting to work, but then I'm sorta biased LOL. To the OP, I can't help with troubleshooting the VVT, I have no experience actually trying to diagnose it.

Actually, I have a 4 mi 1-way commute, and 1 of it is mandatory 30 mph. The other 3...well, leaving work and getting out the gate is kind of like NASCAR raising the green flag after an accident clears.
 
Three words: Honda Effing GRom :)

The problem is that no one sells motorcycles here. If I bought one it would have to be shipped here and any saving would be burned up in getting it here and back. Also, I would need to get a license and go thru a safety class to ride it. Finally, I prefer BMW over Honda.
 
BMW makes a really good scooter that doesn't require a license to operate, at least not here in the CONTI US
 
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