2003 Mazdaspeed Protege New Owner Want Technical Info

ZBlue Bullet

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Mazdaspeed Protege
Hi im a new owner of a msp blue. I traded my stunt bike for a blown up msp with 60k on the body. Ive been searching around a lot lately and really cant find technical information about engine tolerances, limits, ACTUAL limitations etc. Do you guys know what the max power the fs engine can handle on stock bottom end? Is 10:1 compression ratio to high with 10lbs of boost. Cant find the connecting rod bolt size, thread pitch, head size? What is the weak link in the bottom end to cause catastrophic failure? Has anyone ran the AEM FIC? If so what did you think? Results? PS i will take pictures tomorrow of the car and hole in the block.
 
i know the search function is kinda limiting... but i'm sure most if not all the information you seek is on the forum somewhere

i'll throw in my .02
10:1 is to much... stock is 9:1 and ppl blow motors running 10psi... not myself
weak link is the connecting rods
next would be the MSP LSD and 3rd gear
also oil delivery seems to be an issue too... never experienced it myself

i've personally hit 210whp with stock bottom end pushing 10psi with a gt30r for over 4 years until my water pump gave out

i know forcefed posted the engine tolerances somewhere on the forum..

you can ask CR3Motorsports about running an AEM.. i know he tried it with little to no results... just stick with SSAFC if you going piggyback route

btw welcome to the forums and happy hunting
 
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agreed^ about the ssafc. everyone, especially all the veteran protege owners recommend the ssafc over any other piggyback. you can go the unichip route as i know there are still a couple of guys using them. only disadvantage is you either have to purchase the tuning software from unichip themselves or go to a unichip specific tuner to tune it for you for your specific mods.

many people have blown up their engines on stock tune and boost of 6-7ish psi. at least in my opinion the biggest issue is the tuning on these things. we run extremely rich and dangerously lean when switch from open to closed loop.

also always check for vac leaks. if the car isnt responding right or building boost correctly theres always a vac leak somewhere in the mix. (vacuum lines, bad plastic intercooler piping, cracked exhaust manifold, or loose manifold bolts, stock wastegate is shot.) all the most common symptoms it seems.

i believe the most power produced out of a stock block fs-de is still 505zoom. it was somewhere in the 270whp range. but again heavily modified and tuning is the key to not blowing it up. and it is still running strong last i heard.

and as mentioned above. mechanically. the rods and LSD along with 3rd and 5th gears are the weak points on the proteges. but as long as you dont beat the crap out of the car you can make it last and maintain it properly. personally im still on my original block 125k miles and original everything in my transmission. its always gonna be a love/hate thing with these cars.
 
thanks for the info guys your a lot more informative than club protg. camera broke so no pictures until tonight or tomorrow. Came with front mount, piping, racing beat exhaust etc etc. Now is it the rods or rod bolts that fail? And it didn't come with a maf or intake pipe and filter. Still looking for one.
 
rods. you can even google msp blown engine images. if youre looking for more reliablity while increasing power past the 220ish whp mark. go forged. not too many 200+whp stock block proteges that ive seen. some people have boosted 10psi even 12-14psi for years being fully bolts and have never blown their engine. and like i said before there are many who have blown at stock boost. cr3motorsports.com for parts
 
The thin connecting rods are the weak link in the FSDE. The trans don't have many problems aside from the differential. I third the SSAFC, I have been running one for years and it is one of 3 absolute must have mods for an MSP, 1-AFC, 2-TBE, 3-FMIC (cant leave out solid motor mounts as well).
 

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