$2 boost controller.

OK i'm going to try this today or tomorrow and let your know how it works. this is a trick i learned when i owned my SRT4. What it is a something called a vacuum restrictor you can get them at your local autozone is where i got mine from. it looks like a white plastic vacuum T fitting but without the T part. it's a straight connector used to connect two pieces of vacuum line together it's open on one end and has a brass restrictor in the other end. the way you used this on the SRT4's which i think will work the same way on my mazdaspeed3 is you take vacuum line going to the top of the waste gate leave everything else stock like. you cut the vacuum line going to the waste gate on the speed 3 i know there's two one on top and one on bottom so i'm going to try the top first and place a T fitting inline. you hook up the vacum line going to the waste gate on each end of the T fitting but take the vacuum restirctor place a small piece of vacuum line on the end without the brass restrisctor on it and the other end of the vacuum line from the restrictor to the middle fitting on the T fitting.

Now on my SRT4 this is used to help hold boost longer in the top end because the vacuum restrictor works to bleed some of the pressure going to the waste gate helping it not open so easy. BUT the brass opening is SOOO small that it doesn't bleed enough to make the waste gate over boost if installed correctly. Now if installed stock the restrictor will only and maybe increase boost 1 PSI if any at all but you should notice that it holds boost longer in the red line and top end. I used this also as a home made boost controller here's how. I bought three of these vacuum restrictors one i left alone. the second i drilled out the brass end just a hair bigger and the third i drillled out the brass end even a little bigger then that. what that did was give me three stages of boost and all it took was a simple unplug one restrictor and plug in another takes two seconds no turning knobs or pushing buttons and messing with gains. the way to increase boost is you must have a AWESOME drill set find the size drill bit that fits perfect with no drilling. to increase boost goto the next size up and drill out the brass end. BE CAREFUL IT"S ONLY PLASTIC AND SOFT BRASS.

The bigger you make the hole the more pressure will bleed off and the more boost you'll run. This worked GREAT on my SRT4 better then my $50 manual boost controller and worked alot better with the factory systems no over boost or PTM ( partial throttle boost ) that alot of manual boost controllers can cause. i HAVE NOT TRIED THIS ON MY MAZDASPEED3 YET I JUST REMEMBER THIS FROM YM SRT4 DAYS AND I'M GOING TO GIVE IT A WIRL ON MY SPEED3 BUT I THOUGHT I'D SHARE THIS CAUSE IF THIS WORKS THE WAY IT DID ON MY SRT4 FOR THE MONEY YOU CAN'T MAKE A BETTER BOOST CONTROLLER AND IT WORKS VERY WELL WITH THE FACTORY SYSTEMS. I WILL TRY THIS TONIGHT OR TOMORROW AND LET YOU KNOW HOW WELL IT WORKS IF IT EVEN WORKED AT ALL.

This will either work great or fail big time. but in theory it should work the same as my SRT4 did on my stock waste gate and was the best bang for the buck cause putting it back to stock was simple and if i wanted more boost i just unplugged one and poped the other one in and each restrictor only cost like $2 from autozone and they usually give you 1-2 per pack. IF you do not have a boost gauge or something to monitor boost don't be stupid and try this any time you mess with boost levels you must have something to monitor it so you know if you're over boosting without having the computer tell you so.
 
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Breathe. That is too much to read in one sitting. Maybe break it up into paragraphs and whatnot. :)

lol yeah i know it confused me by being so long. pics would be nice too.. maybe even from your old srt4 if you still have any? idk..
 
It sounds like the old trick of putting a small hole in the boost pressure sensor's line. The difference is that by using these restrictors, he has a hole with a controlled size. Normally these things go inline in a vacuum hose to restrict the amount of air that can be pulled through the line. He is using it instead to provide a controlled venting of boost pressure (read: leak) to the air.
 
<--- also doesn't have a boost controller, not til I get a good tuning solution. Just not worth the risk for me. But then again, I rely on those who have extra $$ laying around to make the mistakes for me so I know which products to buy, lol.

I suppose I just like to err on the side of caution, esp since this is my dd and I don't have a back up at the moment.
 
LOL sorry i had to put this up at work and forgot to put the spaces in there i'll change that. I don't see it as a redneck or crap mod. IT's something that i used on my SRT4 and will try on this because i have a manual boost controller sitting in my trunk but something like this is for someone that doesn't want to increase boost by alot that maybe just wants the same boost level but just be able to hold it in the higher RPMS or just wants 1-2 PSI more and does not want to spend $50 or more on a boost controller when all they want is the same boost but just hold it better or just maybe wants 1-2 PSI more but still wants to use the factory controls so everything PCM wise stays happy.
 
I will post pics and results ASAP i just installed my boost gauge so i know whats going on. I was suppose to do this saturday but something major happened in my shop and i was tied up. look for a update in the next couple days
 
here's some pics. there's a pic of the brass end and also a pic of what the whole things looks like when it goes into the car i'll take some pics of it installed and performance later today when i put it on.
 

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FYI an SRT-4's turbo system is about as distant in relationship to our MS3's turbo system as it gets. The only thing they have in common is that there is a turbo in each one...

Research before you post, dammit.

The factory setup is a lot more complex then an SRT-4 to start with. Yes, an MBC will work, but a lot of compromises and risks are made to do it.
 
FYI an SRT-4's turbo system is about as distant in relationship to our MS3's turbo system as it gets. The only thing they have in common is that there is a turbo in each one...

Research before you post, dammit.

The factory setup is a lot more complex then an SRT-4 to start with. Yes, an MBC will work, but a lot of compromises and risks are made to do it.

risks? name one. running a mbc is not different than running cpe's ems. i have had them both.
 
Ok IT WORKS. It works beautifully. i only had my high boost left over and it hits and holds 18PSi from WOT to redline. I just tried my stock on i ran out and bought one and it hits and holds 16PSI to redline. damn i didn't think it would work but it works perfect. no sputtering no hesitation it's like it's stock or suppose to be that way. here's pic of it installed sorry if it's bad quality i had to use my cell phone camera but it works. What i did was just take the vacuum line going from the top of the Waste gate to the waste gate solenoid. i removed the factory hose and put a new on i it's place in case it didn't work i didn't want to mess up the factory unit. run the hose from the top of the WG to the solenoid and put the T fitting somewhere inline to it. just did a 3rd and forth gear pull and it worked. I had the DSC turned off only at the test run the TCS was on just pushed the DS buttom right before i nail the throttle.

All in all this is not bad for a $2 mod. perfect in my eyes for someone that wants to run stock boost but just wants it to hold till red line. or if you want to run 1 PSI higher just take a drill bit and drill out the brass restrictor just a hair and i mean just a hair bigger every step you make it bigger usually ups the boost 1 PSI. WARNING though if you drill out too much it will over boost so find someone with a Great drill bit set and find the size it's really tiny that fits in the hole perfect and just drill out one step bigger to up the boost a hair.
 
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here's the pic of it installed. sorry i'll try to take another pic cause you can't see the restrictor in the pic but it's on the end of the T fitting going out of frame. length of vacuum hose is up to you makes no real difference i just cut alittle extra to be safe. better to have it too long then too short
 

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risks? name one. running a mbc is not different than running cpe's ems. i have had them both.

Ummm your asking what risk's you have by cranking the boost? I hope your kidding. I agree 100% with Falconx84, we will sit back and watch you guys test out all these half ass ems systmes and boost controller's. Im waiting for Cobb to do ANYTHING. (wow)
 
risks? name one. running a mbc is not different than running cpe's ems. i have had them both.

Your way is much different then his, bud. Relax. You're taking calculations and the theories involved into consideration, and he's using SRT-4 knowledge which doesn't apply to our cars 100%.
 
so let me get this straight. you simply Ted into the top hose that goes from the wastegate to the stock boost controller? i have read that the ecu recognizes this after some time and returns boost back to stock. let me know how it holds in a week or two.
 
I know they are two different cars but the princeable's of boost and how a waste gate works and how a boost controller works are basicly all the same. I looked at the factory system and the way it works from my understanding is the feed from the turbo goes to the bottom of the WG. the port on top of the WG goes to the WG control solenoid which then goes out of that to the inlet pipe for the turbo. the wastgate solenoid opens up and leaks pressure back into the turbo hense controlling the WG and how much boost. All i'm doing with this bleeder valve is the same as a manual boost controller in which instead of taking out the WG solenoid all together and using a boost controller to control everything i'm still using the factory system just kind of helping it a bit to do whati want. by putting the bleeder before the slonenoid the hole is literally the size of a hyper dermic needle so small that it doesn't over boost but big enought to bleed off pressure and allow the car to hold boost better to red line and help the WG solenoid. by making the hole a little bigger your bleeding off more pressure and increasing boost levels.

This mod worked GREAT on my SRT4 and it's working GREAT on my MS3 so why not use it. I have a $70 manual boost controller in my trunk but this seems to work better and i can still use my factory systems with it which will help keep CEL's from coming on and make everything happy but still do what i want. Also by using this i can still use my factory boost cut so if for some reason i do over boost the factory system will kick in and keep everything safe. i never did this mod with the intentions of pushing 20 + PSI of boost. I thought this up and tried it cause i wanted factory boost levels maybe 1 PSI high but be able to hold that all the way to redline instead of it dropping off to 12-14PSI which was happening on my SRT4 before i bought my AGP wG and which was happening on my MS3. It was hitting boost but not holding it where i want it past 5K RPM's or close to it. It's a cheap mod that works and everyone has the money to afford to do and it's great for someone that may not want to increase boost levels over stock but they just want it to hold to red line.
 

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