1st timer

[ceric]

DaddyD,
The point is not what you think, it's what "they"(dealer/Mazda) think.
Next time, you visit the dealer, you can ask them "Can I use synthetic oil and do oil change every 10,000 miles?" See what they answer will be.
I can guarantee you it is a NO.

On the alarm, the second click gives you a horn blast to tell you that you did it already. My old Honda Odyssey did that also, which gave absolutely no indication on the 1st click (no light, no beep). Therefore, I always clicked twice.

 

[DaddyD]

Thanks Ham, Ceric, on the horn thing. Having a loud horn is a good thing when you need it, but when I park the car on my quiet suburban street after work at 2AM, even the 1 short honk shatters the still night air like a fart during grace at the Sunday dinner table.

Ceric, on the syn oil: Point taken.

 

[The-9]

I was so glad when I test drove the 9 that it had a real horn unlike lots of other crossovers especially Asian.

 

[The-9]

You can use ANY oil that meets factory specifications whether it is synthetic or not. That is not the issue with the dealers if you ask a question like Ceric suggested. The problem is the mileage. The factory says to change the oil at specific intervals depending on your driving habits and it does not suggest a different schedule for synthetic versus conventional.

Change your oil every 3k with conventional oil or if you really drive highway every day (100miles round trip) then do it every 5k. If you do it yourself you can always find 5w30 quality brand oils for $1.59/qt or 2.00/qt and make sure you use a good oil filter (do I smell another thread coming) like Wix or Napa Gold (made by Wix)


Otherwise let the dealer do it, much easier, a few dollars more but no hassle and it is now documented.

 

[ceric]

I let my dealer do the oil change for the following reasons:
- cheap: $29.95 (including X-point inspection - whatever that means)
- reportcard info - not just on paper, the dealer actually sends the reportcard to the my myMazda page on mazdausa.com, where you can keep electronic records of your maintanence and repair. Very convenient.
If you registered an account on myMazda, that is.

You even get notices of recalls on myMazda before you get a letter. Also, lots of resources you can download such as a PDF version of manual.

 

[Force-1]

I don't take mine to the dealer for LOF because I have to leave it there for several hours--quite inconvenient.

I take it to a local shop very close to where I work. I make an appointment, they do LOF and tire rotation for $40, and I'm back to work in about 30 minutes from the time I left.

 

[hamproof]

On the question about click, beep, light flash onlock, I tested it out today on my 08 GT.

One push on the lock button on smartkey or door button, the side mirror indicator light flash once as well as the front side lights. Push quickly again, it will beep as opposed to a horn which some older Honda I'm accustomed to do.

When unlock, it flashes the same light twice.

But if you are paranoid, press it multiple times. Or I just use the door lock buttons. Much easier since I don't have to take the smart key out of my pants

 

[Force-1]

I have the auto lock function activated in my GT. After I close the last door it will beep to let me know it's about to lock. Second beep indicates doors locked.

 

[erpexec]

I just took delivery of my new CX9 today and was surprised to find that the trip computer (mpg/mte etc.) is in litres per 100 km etc. I can't believe that Mazda would make two totally different units for the US and Canadian markets, I am a MPG kind of guy, never did understand metric, nor do I want to. The dealer tells me there is no way to change this (even though the nav with a simple toggle changes from Kilometres to Miles. Does anyone know if there is a "jumper" or something that can change the readings from metric to imperial? I had a 1986 New Yorker that you could change the entire dash from metric with Imperial with the push of a button. Hard to believe that 13 years later Mazda can't do this. Any thoughts?

 

[gavilan_pr]

I live in S. Florida and from what read in the manufacture book. The factory specifications for oil change is 7500 miles to 5000 depending on driving conditions....is that to much miles. I sitll haven't reached 500 miles, and when it's time all just take it to the dealer.

 

[ceric]

5000 to 7500 miles oil change is what Mazda requires if you want to maintain the warranty validity. You can always shorten it yourself - it is your money after all.
The dealer would tell you that you should do it every 3000-5000. My dealer always does that, and I always smile back and says nothing.

IMHO, 4-bangers should have oil change every 3000-5000 miles, 6-cylinders can have longer oil change interval. 4-bangers are higher revving, therefore, more stress on the oil. I had a BMW 540 (8-cylinder), Believe it or not, the 1st oil change happened at 13,000 miles according to BMW's maintenance indicator. No synthetic oil was used (which was required later on).

 

[The-9]

I disagree about 4cyl versus 6 versus 8 change intervals based on RPM ranges.

Not sure what 4cyl revs higher then our 3.7l and if it does, it is a performance based motor most likely with a turbo which then requires sooner then later oil changes. Others most 4cyl redline at 5500-6500 while our 3.7 redlines at 6700 (wow love it)


We always have to remember the determining factor (separate from your own decision) is the way you drive your vehicle. I have a 500HP monster and I change the 0w40 Mobil 1 every 3k PERIOD. Every other vehicle I have owned gets a 3k oil change using conventional oil. This is my preference but I want to say, follow the manufacturers schedule depending on your driving habits and you will be good to go.

 

[The-9]

A V6 may rev higher, but that's because they can, with more smaller pistons.

Sorry but that makes no sense (crazy)

The components and design of the engine determine the ability to rev, not because it is a 4cyl or because they just can. A Chrysler 4.0L 6cyl engine revs to 5200 rpms while our V6 3.6L revs to 6700 and my V-10 Viper engine revs to 6000. (Honda recommends 5k oil changes for their 4 pin)

Again, driving habits should be the determining factor in your oil change frequency

 

[The-9]

And most 4 pins have smaller pistons the V-6s

Ours are (bore) 95.5 mm while a Honda 1.4L is 81mm.

Bigger pistons on our end(rockon)

 

[ceric]

When travelling at 65mph, most 4-bangers need around 2500-3000rpm to maintain that speed. For a 6-cylinder vehicle, most likely, the rpm needed is around 2000rpm. For my old BMW 540iA (8 cylinder), it was around 1600rpm. Easy job for the 8 cylinder.

Sure, it is related to gear ratio. However, gear ratio is designed based on torque band.

 

[vikefan7]

When travelling at 65mph, most 4-bangers need around 2500-3000rpm to maintain that speed. For a 6-cylinder vehicle, most likely, the rpm needed is around 2000rpm. For my old BMW 540iA (8 cylinder), it was around 1600rpm. Easy job for the 8 cylinder.

Sure, it is related to gear ratio. However, gear ratio is designed based on torque band.

Wouldn't the weight of the vehicle have something to do with maintaining speed as well?

 

[ceric]

Wouldn't the weight of the vehicle have something to do with maintaining speed as well?

Sure. The major resisting forces against maintaining constant speed on highway are
- wind drag - cross sectionXdrag coefficient
- tire frictions (plus other mechanical frictions of moving parts)
Tire friction = vehicle weight x friction coefficient x tire contact area
(heavier car, wider tires, stickier tires all contribute to more friction)

Resisting the total force needs the same horsepower (I4 or V6). Assuming that each cylinder has the same displacement, bore and stroke - same torque per firing), the I4 needs to work 50% harder to achieve the same horsepower - therefore 50% higher rpm. Gear ratio, final drive, etc will alter that number further a bit.

 

[hamproof]

On my 4 banger .. around 109k miles now, I've changed the oil only every 8k miles. Oil comes out dark, but still flows out free good. I often run my fingers through the oil just to make sure it is smooth and free of "grits". Redline is 6800rpm.

On the wife's V6, around 118k miles now, oil change interval is the same, around 8k miles.

Been using Mobil1 5w-30 almost from the beginning for the 4, and starting around 40k miles on the V6.

A long time ago, 10 years or so, a 20/20, Primetime (one of those) did a segment on oil change interval and the conclusion was doing it every 3k per recommendation is just a waste of money. But if it makes you feel better, go ahead and do it. But at least go to a decent oil change place instead of those cheap and fast ones. When I drain the oil, even after 1hr, it's still dripping. Maybe 1 drop every 3-4 secs. Can't imagine how the 10min, or 1/2hr oil change place can manage to get all the oil out in that period of time. I do warm up the engine first. So, it is not a viscosity issue.

Also most quick oil change use junk oil filter and run of the mill grade oil. So, you are not necessary doing much good to the engine, though I'm sure oil is oil and filter is filter. No much harm can be caused either.