Im sure most of you have seen this question a million times but im new to the 247 community. When shifting aggresively the only way i can avoid the big bang I hear from 1st to 2nd gear is to leave the clutch in for a second and let the rpm's drop to rev match. This takes time however and when your racing . . . cant afford to do this. I dont drive my speed 6 hard often but please let me know is there is something im not doing correctly. Is there anyway to alleviate this loud / unpleasant bang from 1st to 2nd when racing without purchasing engine mounts? Appreciate your time.
1st - 2nd gear bang (speed 6)
- Thread starter coyfish
- Start date
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Why not do the upgraded mounts? That's really the only solution.
There are some that are soft enough to not vibrate you to death!
There are some that are soft enough to not vibrate you to death!
Wisnia when I first got my car I had a similar problem. When I was coasting to a light I would often toss it into first as i stopped. I know nothing about the syncros / etc. but bottom line is if your going too fast you will feel some resistance when trying to put the car in 1st(or 2nd/ etc). If you are going at the correct speed then you should be able to shift into gear easily without resistance.
06turbospeed
Member
so what motor mounts work good, but have non or lil vibration?
TX Speed 6
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
I love my CP-E mount, very little vibration, but the shift feels great now. Got rid of that horrible sound/feel when shifting stock
In a word, no. You must replace the rear engine mount, minimum. Lots of subjective opinions, but I like the SU version. I also have the Turbine Tech front (4th) engine mount. Yes, it vibs more...
mazdaspeedster3
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3. 2008
Motor mounts and short shifters my freinds. The AWR is almost stock looking, wont turn a techs head. The CPE will be noticed but wont void warranty unless you blow the trans, then they might say something. Again, the AWR is identical. I have a speed3 but Tunersteve on this forum has a speed6 and we both have the 88 dur race mount and have some vibration but the gain is well worth it!
TX Speed 6
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
Actually on the speed 6 once it is in place you can't really tell the difference between the cpe one and the stock one.
Really most of them will go unnoticed, and any brand mount is going to get the resuls your looking for.
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- MazdaSpeed 6
it vibs more..but...... makes the car feel a hell of alot better just took a drive with it installed on a friends speed6.. and its how it shouldve come from the factory(yes).... i cant wait to put one in my car. well worth the money.
With the Turbine Tech installed its a completely different car. The car feels much more solid through all the gears. Plus under wot its a new beast 
Car seems much faster since its not slamming back and forth every shift. Only draw back is at idle with the ac on the dash board literally shakes back and forth. Mine is installed with a street unit rear mount.
Car seems much faster since its not slamming back and forth every shift. Only draw back is at idle with the ac on the dash board literally shakes back and forth. Mine is installed with a street unit rear mount.xboxlivemonkey
Member
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- 03.5 Msp
dude , your sig (dunno) ? faux ?
Like everyone else said......... the 1st to 2nd gear bang you are hearing is the engine hitting something (many of us assume it to be the firewall)
This is because the rear engine mounts from the factory are too soft/flexible and cause the engine to shift like that.
the only "REAL" way to fix it is to get a better mount..... all of which are offered by street unit, CP-E, AWR, and turbine tech (I've been hearing the turbine tech is the best, expecially doing the engine mount with the differential mount). But it also costs the most.
Best of luck to you.
This is because the rear engine mounts from the factory are too soft/flexible and cause the engine to shift like that.
the only "REAL" way to fix it is to get a better mount..... all of which are offered by street unit, CP-E, AWR, and turbine tech (I've been hearing the turbine tech is the best, expecially doing the engine mount with the differential mount). But it also costs the most.
Best of luck to you.
I do not know if this is what people are talking about, but this weekend I decided to push the car a little and shift quickly. Everytime I would go from one gear to another, the car would "bang". It does feel like the engine moving, but it's really hard to tell. I would say either that or the rear wheels engaging, but I doubt it would do that from 3rd to 4th gear...
Honestly, I believe that it really does slow down the car, especially for a 0-60 / 0-100 tryout. It feels like I actually lose like a second of power between every shifts. Very hard to tell if that's actually the motor mount issue people are talking about.
Honestly, I believe that it really does slow down the car, especially for a 0-60 / 0-100 tryout. It feels like I actually lose like a second of power between every shifts. Very hard to tell if that's actually the motor mount issue people are talking about.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Yes it definately sounds like the motor mount!
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- 2011 Mustang GT
+1 for a new motor mount. I'm workin with the AWR 88 duro and it works perfect. Cleaned up the 'thud' from shifting and really puts the power down. Cheaper than the others and just as good if not better. It will vibrate with the AC on, but only at idle. Once you get moving, it's fine.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
They also make some lower durometer (softer no vibrations) 70a!
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