154whp 152wtq on RX8 rims

[thebeansoldier]

156whp 153wtq on RX8 rims

F2 3.0" intake (w/ a 2.5" removable reducer)
Draxas exhaust
Buddy Club Ground Kit
Ignition timing advance + 89 octane

 

[Gambino]

not bad. your target is only 160 whp?

 

[POSEIDON]

What is the "monzsta" timing mod.

God I hope it's not some black box thing you got on ebay.

 

[WetsuitxNinja]

Easiest way to splain it, you move the sensor down and it advances your timing a few degree's. I did it last night, seems to give a bit of pull on the higher gears. Idea being that you will get better mpg, and a bit of hp. I had a car full, 87 oct, and driving pretty hard and didnt hear any detonation or pinging. If you are worried about deto then toss some higher grade gas in for peace of mind.

To do.
-Get in the wheel well of the passanger side, (I had my wheels off painting calipers anyways so it gave me TONS of room)

-Take the cover off, 2 bolts and a phillips head plastic screw deal, and then two more on the undercarrage splash guard.

-When thats out of the way you look for a metal (04 and 05, mines and 06 and it was black plastic) piece that is held on by 2 8mm bolts. The AC belt will be in the way of the bottom one, push it out of the way to loosen.

-The sensor is slotted where the bolts go through, so you can push it down a 1\4 inch or so til it bottoms out on the screws that you loosened. Tighten the screws back up, not too hard though, snug them.

Done.

 

[Kansei]

Easiest way to splain it, you move the sensor down and it advances your timing a few degree's. I did it last night, seems to give a bit of pull on the higher gears. Idea being that you will get better mpg, and a bit of hp. I had a car full, 87 oct, and driving pretty hard and didnt hear any detonation or pinging. If you are worried about deto then toss some higher grade gas in for peace of mind.

To do.
-Get in the wheel well of the passanger side, (I had my wheels off painting calipers anyways so it gave me TONS of room)

-Take the cover off, 2 bolts and a phillips head plastic screw deal, and then two more on the undercarrage splash guard.

-When thats out of the way you look for a metal (04 and 05, mines and 06 and it was black plastic) piece that is held on by 2 8mm bolts. The AC belt will be in the way of the bottom one, push it out of the way to loosen.

-The sensor is slotted where the bolts go through, so you can push it down a 1\4 inch or so til it bottoms out on the screws that you loosened. Tighten the screws back up, not too hard though, snug them.

Done.

So you are just moving the crank position sensor? that sounds like something I definitely wouldn't want to do to my car.

 

[WetsuitxNinja]

Yeah basically. http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=39020.0 is where you can read more about it

 

[thebeansoldier]

not bad. your target is only 160 whp?

yea, i'm being realistic-- 10hp at a time NA. The 18" RX8 wheels costs me 46lbs total per corner, so i'm losing some much needed torque up front. With lighter wheels like a 17" FN01R-C or SubZeros would yield better gains of course. There are still more mods to make more power: flywheel, header, pulleys (that's about it for basic bolt ons at the moment). I'm not planning to go too far on mods as I only have 18k and don't plan on ever boosting it.

the monzsta timing mod is basically an ignition timing advance-- not a resistor thing from ebay monzsta is the user that discovered it.

 

[goldwing2000]

So you are just moving the crank position sensor? that sounds like something I definitely wouldn't want to do to my car.

Well... I figure if it was that harmful, the adjustment wouldn't be built in to the part.

Just sayin'...

 

[Gambino]

I hope this isnt too off-topic (since we are discussing power gains with that "mod"), but is that a bad idea to do if I am going to be boosting in about a month?

 

[Kansei]

Well... I figure if it was that harmful, the adjustment wouldn't be built in to the part.

Just sayin'...

True. It's a hell of a lot easier than moving the timing belt over one tooth on the crank pulley too. Do you see any downside to doing the mod? I don't think I even could do it on my Protege5. I don't remember the sensor being on any moveable piece, and I really don't feel like taking off my valve cover (required to take off the side timing belt cover) just to check

 

[goldwing2000]

I hope this isnt too off-topic (since we are discussing power gains with that "mod"), but is that a bad idea to do if I am going to be boosting in about a month?

It's easy enough to undo, so you could advance it now and then retard it after you boost. It only takes like 10 minutes.

zverg: the only possible downside would be detonation but the knock sensor should take care of any of that foolishness.

edit: Removing the VTCS flappers seems to be working for some people, too:
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about1716-0-asc-0.html

 

[goldwing2000]

So!

Being the lazy bastard that I am, I found an easier way.

Get a 8mm wrench, 6-inches long or more, and you can actually do this from the top just by lifting the hood. (thumb)

It probably isn't any faster but my fat ass wasn't rolling around on the ground, pulling tires and splash shields and crap.

Wore a pair of gloves and barely even got dirty.

(first)

 

[tsunami]

whats your opinion on this mod goldwing? thinking about doing it but not sure....

 

[thebeansoldier]

It's easy enough to undo, so you could advance it now and then retard it after you boost. It only takes like 10 minutes.

zverg: the only possible downside would be detonation but the knock sensor should take care of any of that foolishness.

edit: Removing the VTCS flappers seems to be working for some people, too:
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about1716-0-asc-0.html

is there a complete step-by-step write up for the VTCS? I was thinking of doing it, but it's the "idle hunting" after the mod that's really keeping me from doing it.

EDIT: looks like the service manual shows which bolts to remove to take out the manifold; then just work from there.

tsunami, my dyno isn't enough proof for you?

 

[goldwing2000]

I was thinking of doing it, but it's the "idle hunting" after the mod that's really keeping me from doing it.

Honestly, my car "idle hunts" for 100 miles every time I disconnect the battery, while the ECM relearns what it's like to be a car. That's whether I make any mods or not.

tsu: I've done about 75 miles since I changed it. It seems to have a little more zoom-zoom and I'm running on 87 octane with no detonation. I say it's worthwhile. Definitely worth the cost.

 

[tsunami]

just going to ask around a bit before i do bean soldier...i think i am going to go get a dyno next week to see what the new thunder header gives us and will do after a run to get a before and after...

 

[AzMz3]

I hope this isnt too off-topic (since we are discussing power gains with that "mod"), but is that a bad idea to do if I am going to be boosting in about a month?

You would want to move it the other way to retard timing with the turbo.

 

[three]

So the timing mod absolutely will not mess anyting up. Also has anybody done this mod with underdrive pulleys.

 

[WetsuitxNinja]

I un-did the timing mod a few days ago. Its definately going back to advanced... If you are doubting the mod, do it and leave it that way for awhile then un-do it. Pretty interesting.

 

[dread]

So the timing mod gave you 6 whp if I am reading your dyno correctly. That is awesome for a free mod. Thanks for doing all of these dynos bean.