140 whp on rebuild goal possible?

tweety2300

Member
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2001 mazda protege mp3
Since I'm going to be keeping it the protege is getting a complete rebuild with the following

Fsze pistons and maybe cams .010 over bore

Cosmetic thin head gasket

Rebuilt head

Arp head studs

Obx header with stock mp3 exhaust

Ported mp3 intake manifold

Sri

Mp3 ecu with ssafc

626 trans with msp diff

Is 140 whp possible with that? I'm not doing it to race but to be a dependable daily that actually has some get up to it without spending s*** tons of money. It's getting rebuilt due to burning a qt of oil every 800-1000 miles and filling up a parking lot with smoke on cold starts
 
That sounds possible with that setup, give or take a few ponies. Just the increase in compression will ad some HP
 
You must mean at the wheels - it was 145hp at the crank stock ;)

But to answer your quetion - yeah, that sounds about right...

Consider also thermal gaskets for the intake manifold and t/b (and bypass the coolant to the t/b too)
An UDP would pair up with those mods too ;)
 
Stock is 130hp crank. Most stock P5's, including my own, dyno at about 100hp/100tq at the wheels. You will need a better header and full exhaust to even have a chance at 140. A good tune with the ssafc will help a lot too. Interested to see what numbers you end up with :)
 
I have an mp3 most dyno anywhere from 110-115 hp and 115-120 tq.

Its gona be a daily so I don't want the exhaust to be loud or anything which is the reason for keeping the stock header back. The only reason it's getting a header is that the precat is bad

It will be more of a conservative tune so that it lasts a while. If I don't see 140 it won't be a huge deal but getting on the interstate is just a joke in its self. I haven't decided if its getting the cams or not. The head will Atleast get a light pnp job. I'm not taking any shortcuts but trying not to spend a lot as the 323 is getting thousands put in it once the protege is done.

My end goal is a semi fun daily that will last 100k miles atleast. The hp goal is to make it a bit more fun rather than a chore. Regardless it will be done before summer. So I will post the numbers
 
MP3's only have 5hp more than regular proteges at the crank. I would love to see a stock MP3 dyno at 115hp...

Get a catted midpipe and Racing Beat exhaust - that will definitely keep it quite but open up the flow.

I have the following and have only dyno'ed at 117hp/115tq:

NEW crate motor with 20k miles on it at the time of dyno
Mazdaspeed flywheel
MP3 intake manifold
MP3 ECU
Corksport J-pipe
SLS catted midpipe (2.5")
Racing Beat Catback
Deleted intake snorkel (only airbox and intake tube)
Mazdaspeed foam panel filter

I just took delivery of a Pacemaker header from Australia and will be posting up my final results with scanned graph after the 505Zoom Cold Air box. I doubt I'll hit 130 LOL.
 
Mp3s had 140 stock... And it has been shown for just the mp3 ecu to gain 10 hp

Ssafc is on the list with a custom short ram intake. Again I am keeping the stock exhaust if it costs me a few hp itl be worth it to have a quite exhaust. I already have the racing beat axle back so there's no point in buying a cat back.ill have my flywheel resurfaced down a good bit to make it a little lighter but nothing rediculous

Fsze pistons supposedly add 15 whp plus ill be able to tune it. I figure 140 should be feasible, especially with camshaft I get them. It may or may not get a megasquirt if I can make the one from the 323 work
 
is the stock mp3 exhaust a larger diameter than a regular protege/protege5? I remember reading that the stock msp exhaust is slightly larger than the regular protege one.
 
Mp3s had 140 stock... And it has been shown for just the mp3 ecu to gain 10 hp

Ssafc is on the list with a custom short ram intake. Again I am keeping the stock exhaust if it costs me a few hp itl be worth it to have a quite exhaust. I already have the racing beat axle back so there's no point in buying a cat back.ill have my flywheel resurfaced down a good bit to make it a little lighter but nothing rediculous

Fsze pistons supposedly add 15 whp plus ill be able to tune it. I figure 140 should be feasible, especially with camshaft I get them. It may or may not get a megasquirt if I can make the one from the 323 work

You and google have proven me wrong. MP3's did have 140hp/142tq at the crank :)

Still interested to see where you end up compared to what I have planned. Will be good to get the NA dyno chart section going again :)
 
Cr3- I do have a budget and the ssftc isn't in it lol. I'm not sure if the megasquirt will work or not but I guess I'll find out

Brian- I'm pretty sure it's the same as a regular racing beat cat back

Circuit- I'm not going for huge numbers like a lot of people, if I had the time and a bit more money I'd go with a klze. It was considered though. Ill probly try to get a good base run but considering I know the rings are worn and the head might be warped or cracked itl probly be on the embarrassing side.
 
I'm not going for huge numbers either (stock internals/head), but I do want to see the difference those mods make between us. KLZE would be nice, but I wouldn't pass smog and dumping large amounts of money into this car is not something I want to do anymore LOL.
 
I'm taking the same aproach as you. I still have to rebuild, but installed the cams just for the hell of it along with the intake mani. Already had a mp3 ecu. that along with obx 4-1 custom header back and racingbeat axleback. The cams do take away that low end grunt and replace it with sweet free revving up top... but it drops the torque to civic levels of wtf down low. I'd say that below 2500 rpm the car feels weak. That said Im having problems with VICS and sometimes it sticks open.

I'm confident that you can hit 140... the problem is that hp trying to move this brick of a car
 
Ya that's the one thing that's drawing me from the cams is that I need low end power since I live in a hilly area
 
Things you need to get some HP/Tq out of an N/A engine:

-more stroke (very expensive)
-more bore (rebuilt condition anyways)
-higher compression (if you can get 12.5:1 would be nice! Because with 13:1 you will need to refuel at the airport or always add octane booster)
-Oversized valves (not too much$$$ on cross over auto)
-fully ported/polished head port matched with intake and exhaust manifolds
-I'd sell my mother to see an ITB FS-DE !!! (kidding, I love my mommy! Lol) But ITB's kick-ass!!!
-higher rev would help (if you can unlock the rev limiter and bring it to 9000rpm it's the limit of the oil pump... then it fails until you get a stronger one or if you go dry-sump)
-higher back-pressure exhaust (I don't know wich size would do the best)
-cams... with higher lift, duration and overlap
-take off the most accessories possible (A/C, P/S, W/P... well keep only the alternator)
-also removing as most unsprung weight as possible will result in more BHP to reach the wheels

EDIT: If you rev higher, it would be a good idea to get stiffer valve springs... you don't want your valves to float, unlock and drop in the cylinder... makes a great mess!!!

EDIT2: The problem with our engines is we don't have VVT. By having standard basic cams, we can only improve one section of rpm. (low rpm, mid rpm, high rpm) With a VVT like honda's V-Tec they improve mid-range and high-range RPM's... the best I know right now are Mitsubishi's MIVEC that allows all RPM sections to be improved since their cams have 3 positions possible.

So if you want low rpm HP/Tq, you will have to forget about getting nice numbers at higher RPMs... sucks hein!?
 
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Did you read any of this thread? I'm not even going to consider that kind of money into it. Plus at the point of mods you're listing completely takes out the reliability part, which is the entire reason it's getting rebuilt

It's a daily ill be damned if I pull the ac off for 5 hp when summers can reach 110 heat index. If I wanted to get 160 out of it yes I'd be doing all tht and more. I just want a bit of ass out of it. If I wana go fast ill bump the boost up on the 323 again
 
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