1300 mile road trip/towing report for the CX-9 if any one is interested.

Montanaman

Montana/Arizona
:
2018.5 CX-9 AWD GT
I just pulled in from a 1325 mile road trip from north Phoenix ,AZ to my home in Montana and thought I would share some stat's and thoughts if anybody wants to know about long haul towing with this sled.

Ours is a 2018 GT AWD that now has 9200 miles. Payload was approximately 600 lbs ( 2 medium adults, two small dogs, a bunch of gear and a loaded Thule Force medium top box. We were towing a Kendon dual motorcycle trailer with a BMW 1200 GS on board. That combined set up with some extra gear is about 1800 lbs. So adding in the weight of the vehicle ( about 4500 lbs full of gas) we had about 7000 lbs going down the road. Temps were in the mid 30's to mid 50's fahrenheit and dry pavement. I ran 91 octane premium the whole way.

Total computer MPG for 1325 miles of mostly interstate with speeds between 65 and 80 was 17.5 MPG. (I did not have time to do the proper fill up and divide method as there were too many stops but I know the computer is almost dead on). Anyway I was pleasantly surprised and was expecting less to be honest. We took the old 2016 CX-5 GT AWD on exact same trip with the same exact load heading south in December and the total was a flat 17 mpg. I find that a bit surprising. The whole trip is countless elevation changes ranging from 2000 ft to 7000 ft crossing the continental divide many times. It's up and down both ways so it's a fair comparison.( Beginning elevation is the same and both ends.) Anyway I thought the gas mileage was very good considering all that. That top box probably hurts more than the trailer to be honest. I think it's because even though the CX-5 is lighter, that engine has to work harder more often under those conditions. That's the best guess I got anyway.

As far as performance the CX-9 was great. There were only a couple of times when it needed to catch it's breath going up a long steep hill at 70-75 mph but all that torque really helps. It felt more effortless that the CX-5 by a good measure. It's got to be the turbo. There were times when it I would think it would have to kick down a gear or two, but it didn't have to downshift to maintain the speed. Pretty impressive. I think it could tow another 1000 lbs but I don't think I would go beyond that if your cabin is loaded unless your driving from Michigan to Florida or something relatively flat. Bottom line is the thing had plenty of power with all that extra weight.

Misc. thoughts. The ride was not as great as I thought it would be but I think I have to blame that on the trailer and the extremely lousy road conditions. Our interstates are thrashed and after the winter we had all over the west they are really bad. I think you definitely give up some ride quality with the 20" wheel set up. I'd like to drive one with the 18"s and feel the difference. I will say the interior did start to feel a little cramped after 5-6 hours in there. It doesn't feel a lot bigger than the old CX-5 to me. But a lot nicer. I can see why people pick on it for that reason. Not a real issue for us as we are not big people but it does have it's limitations. Seat comfort was good but I don't think any seat is going to feel great after long stretches like that. A thigh extender would be a big plus. Heated seats and steering wheel were great as it is still winter here in the Rockies. It will probably be new windshield time already because they seem to be made out of sugar glass or something. Either that or we've just been unlucky. 9200 miles and big chips in a few places.

That's about it.. sorry for the long post but thought it might be helpful to someone who is on the fence about towing with this rig and what kind of mileage you might get. So far I am a satisfied customer. The other cool thing (maybe not for Mazda) is I saw only one other late model CX-9 the whole 3 day trip.
 
I have both 18 and 20s. Came with the 20s but the 18s are definitely a smoother/softer ride. You do lose some performance though. I have 15k on mine and one rock to the windshield caused a little circle dent that I am getting repaired. Not sure if its because it is lower than my SUV or the glass is softer. Been towing my jet skiis about 500-600lbs I think and no issues at all. I forget they are back there.
 
This is good info. I plan to do a similar long road trip with my mate, hauling two Multistrada 1400 with loaded panniers and a roof box, and this is exactly the information I was looking for. The overall towing capacity for these seems to be pansy but considering the 4 banger, it makes sense.

Where did you get your trailer and also, what hitch do you have installed?
 
I bought the Kendon used. It's a 2001 but those things are solid. Torsion axle. I've never towed 2 bikes but with one that weighs about 600 lbs it's fine with this car.

I had U-haul install the class 3 hitch ( It's a rebranded Curt ) and that was about $350.00 and I had to buy a longer ball mount because the receiver is tucked under the bumper a bit. I flipped the ball mount so it's a 3/4 drop to line things up. It all worked. Just make sure you really strap the bikes on tightly and I recommend using multiple tie down points if your going long distances. Things bounce around and I've had straps freeze and break and other issues. Get the biggest, best ratchet strap tie downs you can get.
 
Thanks for the post and the info. I'm considering a couple cargo options, including a Thule Force roof box and a Class III hitch for towing my KTM SuperDuke GT as needed (which hopefully won't be often). Debating between Class II or III (as it's main purpose may truly be for hitch-mounted bicycle rack as my kids get out of tricycles and training wheels) seems pointless-- just go with Class III.

The hitch install seems fairly straightforward so I was thinking of doing it myself. Thanks for the road trip report.

btw, did you go with factory cross bars or aftermarket?
 
Thanks for the post and the info. I'm considering a couple cargo options, including a Thule Force roof box and a Class III hitch for towing my KTM SuperDuke GT as needed (which hopefully won't be often). Debating between Class II or III (as it's main purpose may truly be for hitch-mounted bicycle rack as my kids get out of tricycles and training wheels) seems pointless-- just go with Class III.

The hitch install seems fairly straightforward so I was thinking of doing it myself. Thanks for the road trip report.

btw, did you go with factory cross bars or aftermarket?

I just went with the class III because I have another vehicle with that set up and I feel it's more stout and why not? It definitely adds some weight to the vehicle. Install is not hard but I didn't have access to tools or ramps ( don't need but makes it far easier) so for another 70 bucks I just had them do it at U-Haul where I got the hitch. You do have to remove a lot of the plastics on the right side interior trunk area to get to the connection harness.

My top box is technically a Thule "Pulse" medium ( not much difference) and yes I had them put the OEM bars on when I bought the car. They work fine. They do not adjust or slide at all so make sure you get a top box that adjusts from the inside. I think they all do now. Now I am debating on removing the cross bars when not in use because it it looks better and might add some MPG. I think there is also some slight wind noise with them on as well but the Bose system takes care of that.
 
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