#1289 - A story of rebirth

meh. it it works, just run it. a bov isnt particularly complicated. i think i have a legit hks but had to modify it to work properly at our tiny boost levels. then its not worth squat as a genuine one lol. just try it out and replace it if it doesnt do what its suppose to.
 
I say get the real BOV, my new msp has an cheapo ebay HKS style bov and I can tell a huge difference in operation and sound between the two.
 
So parts came today.. not all of them yet, LOL.. but you guys own MSP's.. so I am sure most of you are familiar with "Christmas every day".. The Fedex guy prolly hates me. I know the mailman isn't a fan..

My room looks more like a garage than a room.



Stage 2 of this project is going to be so much better than first first leg.. haha

SO here's what we have / what we need to do

-Exedy Stage 1 clutch
-Transmission mount

I have both of these NOW, but this is a major project. When I did the Tercel's clutch it took me a whole weekend.. and there was a lot more room to play with and I had a friend to help (ever since my roommate blew his truck up, he's been less than enthusiastic about working on cars) AND its was my only car, so I basically just worked on it non-stop the whole time (now I don't work like that anymore)

- I have new gauge bulbs, the silver rings for the gauges, and a whole new cluster (used)... I am just stealing the glass out of it. (if anyone needs a glassless cluster, let me know)

This will completely freshen up the instrument cluster, because right now, its glass is cracked down the middle (annoying during the day) and the two outer bulbs are burnt (annoying at night) Then the silver rings takes it past "just being fixed". Stoked on that.. this car is drive by wire, so its no where near as bad as I've encountered before

-Entire gasket set. (like everything)

I don't need it all NOW, but it was way cheaper to buy it all together rather than source individual pieces. Those 10 little valve cover bolt "keepers" or whatever you wanna call them.. they are bad on my current setup.. still leaking oil.. and look at the price individually... (insanity) I am gonna redo the valve cover gasket and this time use RTV.. I am tired of these little oil leaks..

I will also need this set if I ever take off the head, and when I do the exhaust manifold..like I said.. I have everything.. so now if I WANT to do something.. I can. No waiting around/trips to part stores..

-Oil feed and return lines.

I may just get a new turbo.. but if I don't , I am at the very least gonna change out those lines.. and If I DO get an new turbo, I already have them.

-Vacuum block, boost gauge, dual pod piller (haven't decided on gauge #2 yet) BOV, Pod filter, rest of the piping and couplers..

I am super stoked on this part. I basically have almost everything.. just waiting on part and we are good to go. I will do this next.

-Shift knob

I already showed you guys the one I ordered.. Its a lot like the 03 MSP's shifter.. It might be the same.. IDK) http://www.ebay.com/itm/231409522693?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

-Crankcase breather

Not even sure if I need this.. lol. I got it cause it was cheap and.. well.. who knows. maybe I'll use it.

-PM'd about a "10 out of 10" 2003.5 MSP steering wheel (I have the ugly, sticky silver wearing off leather.. and I don't want an "aftermarket" one... at least, not YET.)

SO thats round 2. (oh and a wheel stud)

Should be getting interesting

Anyone know how hard this turbo would be to fit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/371283770445?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

(yes I know its a knock off ebay turbo, but it says its ball bearing and I am just trying to control the bleeding, financially here.. otherwise I'd have bought a EVO. lmao
 
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Yeah you can do that turbo it's the biggest that and be squeezed in the car. Fitting the Watergate actuator is the hardest part. You also need to get water lines that maneuver around the larger housing. ATP make this turbo in the same housing as our stock, it is 1300 though. But that drops in no modding.
 
that turbo would massacre your motor badly.. dont buy that.
 
T3 flange turbo won't fit on the stock manifold, and i'm fairly certain the T3 CHRA does not fit into T2 housings...

SO basically, this turbo is too big without a forged setup?

Is that what this is boiling down to, regardless of fitment issues? (It looks like with a T3 manifold, this should fit our downpipe)
 
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Don't buy a turbo unless you need to and if you need to don't buy that turbo. Stick to a t25 unless you're going for big power. If you do decide to go after power, you need the supporting mods (full turbo back, tuning, injectors, bottom end, etc) before a larger turbo is a good idea.
 
The MSP is not drive by wire. It has a traditional throttle cable.

I watched a video of someone taking out a protege gauge cluster.. I didn't see a throttle cable attached back there..

I guess I will play it by ear then.

10-4 on the "DON'T BUY THIS TURBO"

THANKS GUYS.. I guess I may keep looking for a journal bearing T25 flange. $800 just for the CHRA (just to go back to stock) leaves me like (uhm)(no)

I would rather go journal bearing and save a s*** load of money. I have 150K on the clock for ***** sake.
 
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Whts wrong with your turbo to even go down this thoughtprocess? Mine has 150k on it and looks/feels brand new... change lines/washers/gaskets but why whole turbo?
 
I watched a video of someone taking out a protege gauge cluster.. I didn't see a throttle cable attached back there..

Why would there ever be a throttle cable attached to a gauge cluster? Do you mean a speedometer cable? I can't remember ever seeing a car made after 1990 still with a mechanical speedometer.......
 
I am getting oil in my pipes.. more in the hot pipe than cold, but nevertheless...

Also, (and this is really hard for me to diagnose, since this is my first turbo car) I hear what can only be described as a slightly metallic rubbing sound. If I took a wild shot in the dark, I'd guess its the turbine just barely making contact with the inside of the housing. Maybe I am wrong, but the oil in the pipes leads me to believe this turbo is starting to s*** the bed.

Like i said, I may be wrong.. I'm not above admitting when I am, but it just sounds "off" to me.

Mine definitely doesn't look new. From under the car there is a LOT of crap on the CHRA section.. especially where the oil return line hooks up.

I don't have a boost gauge to know for sure it is boosting properly... but all that is coming / been delivered / waiting on install.

But that is why I went down this "thought process" road..
.........................
I really appreciate you guys taking time out to talk shop about this stuff.. no one else (it seems) knows anything. I had a guy I work with come up to me yesterday.. He's like "DUDE, I found this 03 Mazda hatchback.. (HE MUST MEAN THE P5).. He goes on and on about "how nice this thing is".. Telling me about it, like I have no idea what an 03 Mazda interior looks like (LMFAO). He's like "this is one of those that is DONE UP from the factory" again, as if I don't OWN ONE.. He goes on to say "I think this is the one with the turbo" *sigh* I told him only MSP came with a turbo from the factory.. he's like "are you SURE?" I'm like "No.. I have only been researching everything related to an 03 Mazda ANYTHING for a month.. EVERY DAY. I must have missed something. lmao..

Long story short, without this forum.. I'd probably still be that guy.
 
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Why would there ever be a throttle cable attached to a gauge cluster? Do you mean a speedometer cable? I can't remember ever seeing a car made after 1990 still with a mechanical speedometer.......

MY BAD!!! I totally mispoke.

BUT there are.. the 1996 tercel (and therefor the paseo as well) has the speedo cable attached.. It is an absolute NIGHTMARE to try to detach, as the cable itself only allows for the cluster to be pulled out far enough for a 10 year old kids arm to get behind there. Needless to say, I still have burnt cluster lights.
 
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Fear not! Your 03 Protege has a digital signal driveing the Speedo. There are three Molex connection to the back of the cluster with enough slack to remove it and unplug it hassle free.
 
Fear not! Your 03 Protege has a digital signal driveing the Speedo. There are three Molex connection to the back of the cluster with enough slack to remove it and unplug it hassle free.

Thats what I thought I saw in the vid I watched... this is gonna be WAY easier than trying to remove a tiny clip that you can't reach or even see.. I can't for the life of me figure out how the previous owner cracked this glass. I found a piece of wadded up paper wedged between the top of the cluster and the bottom of the dash. Maybe he cracked it trying to remove the cluster completely to fix that vibration noise. Speaking of which, did Calloway remove all the sound deadening in this car? I think I wanna put some dynomat or whatever in the inside of the doors, against the inside of the doorskin, to stop some of that hollow sound when the doors close. (I know.. I'm very picky)
 
sound deadening... lol. your cute... its a $15000 car they bolted a bunch of s*** to and doubled the price lol. get used to "Msp" sounds.. there are a lot of them you will quickly become acquainted with.

oh, and then there is the first time you will hit fuelcut.. dont s*** your pants =D
 
I've heard people mention fuel cut on here, but I was under the impression that was after some decent mods..

*Foot in mouth* I suppose a FMIC IS a decent mod.

But seriously.. this fuel cut happens with mild mods? Is there a solution for it?? I imagine maybe a walbro fuel pump and some injectors?


LOL.. I'm going to end up building a forged motor.. who am I kidding?
 
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