1.6l cai hessitation cure..

TampaSport20 said:
Narrow Band A/F guages are worthless



I know that, i got it in a deal with another gauge that i wanted so i said i would use the rice.

But i still wonder if it would work for the little thing's like this.
cause right now it's all good as my INtake is modded for the winter, but come spring it's back to the CAI and the "system to lean" s***.
 
narrow band gauge is only good if you have A.D.D and you enjoy the pretty colors cycling. for most people the difference between a good tune and a dead motor is displayed on the last led that lights up. however for basic tuning get yourself a voltmeter and tap into your o2 sensor. it needs to show .9x volts not just .9 that way you can at least come close. aim for .92 to .94 volts that should be ok. we use that for 3000gt vr4's and dsm's so you might be able to go leaner with no boost. if yo have a way to log your knock counts then you can check them as well.
 
tnkopher1 said:
narrow band gauge is only good if you have A.D.D and you enjoy the pretty colors cycling. for most people the difference between a good tune and a dead motor is displayed on the last led that lights up. however for basic tuning get yourself a voltmeter and tap into your o2 sensor. it needs to show .9x volts not just .9 that way you can at least come close. aim for .92 to .94 volts that should be ok. we use that for 3000gt vr4's and dsm's so you might be able to go leaner with no boost. if yo have a way to log your knock counts then you can check them as well.

well said
 
TampaSport20 said:
well said
Thank you.

Also tuning your car by adjusting base fuel pressure is very crude and you will experience rich situations especially at idle/cruising. you really need an afc to tune right but if you dont mind the all aound loss of fuel economy for the 5 hp you will gain "up top" then go ahead.
 
shaneMazda2000P said:
no, 10 psi above stock. stock is around 30-35 idle, mine is now 38 to 42 idle

Still no problems with the hesitation? My CAI is starting to hesitate like crazy. Every time I stomp on the gas (well, not stomp, but aggressively get on it) the car hesitates for a bit, then gets going. I think this might be one of the reasons why I sometimes on occasion get stuck in between gears (normally between 1st and 2nd) and get bad gas mileage.

How much did you say one of those rising rate fuel regulators cost?
 
TampaSport20 said:
well said

Kinda off topic, but real quick, did you cure your hesitation with O-ring gasket fix? Im about to do that, but want to make sure it works before buying numerous rings and wasting my time with them.
 
dont waste ur time, i riped all that s*** out... it cures it for a lil while but always comes back... i just leave my stock intake with no air ducts... you actuall get more power that way..
 
shaneMazda2000P said:
dont waste ur time, i riped all that s*** out... it cures it for a lil while but always comes back... i just leave my stock intake with no air ducts... you actuall get more power that way..

Don't waste my time with what? The fuel regulator or the O ring thing? I would think the O ring thing would work because it'll work the same way that the bike intertube fix would work. It would make that seal around the MAF meter.

Knowing the problems the CAI is causing, I probably would of kept my stock intake system and did some modifications to that. But I dont sold all of that away because I heard good things about the CAI. Overall, Im happy with the intake, but I want to get rid of this hesitation in the worst way. I don't think my car has realized its potential with the CAI.
 
The O ring thing only helps alittle, to plug up a possible vacume leak, because the cai is metal and wont have any give to it, unlike the plastic air box. This only helps fix the fact that the intake was poorly made.

The maf still wont read properly. Youll still get hessitation. But now you can be sure its not a vacume leak and tune it someway. Looking at the stock protege dyno and a/f I can say with confidence that it should have no problem auto tunning to make up for the rich areas. A FPR should be a simple enough fix to help bring the maf to the point where it wont throw a cel then the car should learn (auto tune) the way the maf reads and give a happy 14.7:1.

Ive actually been able to drive the car very lightly with the cai on and even had the cel go away. IT always came back when I really got on the gas though. The trick is gonna be to make the rai work, that thing had problems.
 
the fuel regulator got ride of it.. i am talkin about the seals around the sensor... they always eventually leak...
 
best way to do a CAI guys is to cut the stock mount for the MAF out of the airbox... I've NEVER got a CEL with mine
 
TampaSport20 said:
best way to do a CAI guys is to cut the stock mount for the MAF out of the airbox... I've NEVER got a CEL with mine

i did that, never got a cel,but i still had a hesitation around 3k...
 
Im hoping that the hesitation is happening because of a vacuum leak around the MAF sensor. Before I put the CAI on, I never had any problems with the car being a little sluggish and hesitating when I press the gas. So I know its got be something with the CAI. If the intake itself is poorly made, what else for the 1.6 00 sedan is available that won't cause a CEL or hesitation?
 
would this allow us to run bigger pipes on our intake ???

says it's for a toyota, but OBVIOUSLY it is the same MAF as ours

pic from hassturbo.com

MR2-3-inch-MIFI-2.jpg
 
Thats quite the restrictive turbulence creating block of metal weilded into the pipe.
Makes sense that it would work though (at least help), prob by making air flow as it would stock. I would rather run the spectre 3" strait through, and find some other way to take away the cel.

Do the toyota guys have any decent fixes for our maf?
 
zerocover said:
Thats quite the restrictive turbulence creating block of metal weilded into the pipe.
Makes sense that it would work though (at least help), prob by making air flow as it would stock. I would rather run the spectre 3" strait through, and find some other way to take away the cel.

Do the toyota guys have any decent fixes for our maf?

bet it would still out flow the stock pipe....

I'll have to do some research on the toyota guys having a fix....
 
One thing I keep forgetting...what matters is the voltage our ECU sees from the MAF, even if it's the same MAF as other cars, the voltage their ecu's are expecting may not be the same (braindead
 
If they have an easy diy we could always adapt it.

As long as its not a pre made product becuase then its be useless to us.
 
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