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Also found this on a BMW forum. No "chirping" in MS3's but for a while the fluid type in the coilover apparently made a difference when warm/cold/or setting for harder vs. softer: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243156&page=11 5/23/2010, Excerpt: Right first off, hi guys, this...

Found this on another forum, which may explain the cause of the change in shock dampening after warm-up... Utilize a a 2 chamber design, an inner tube where most of the work takes place, and an outer tube which acts as a fluid resevoir. - In the outer tube a low pressure gas charge is used as...

Found someone that talked about KW's low-oil design that may explain a few things, if it's true. Found on another forum. Originally Posted by "Design" View Post Great write-up. Couple throughts: - If you're dropped an inch already I'm not convinced shorter endlinks are needed. KW specifically...

Can't really tell, but does the OCC kit contain a higher pressure check-valve (McMaster-Carr brass one, or similar) to keep the reservoir from back-filling with pressure? The 2nd PCV valve solutions often don't stand up to the pressure and are "positionally" leak-insecure versus a spring loaded...

Excellent... New ones will come with a CARB sticker. We Californians that often get pulled over as "revenue generators" by the Calif. Highway Patrol, can now point at the sticker and go NYA-NYA-NYA!! when asked to pop the hood looking for illegal modifications......while he/she Gestapo...

bump for cold weather startup update.... Feels a bit harsher for about 5 minutes on cold days until presumably the hydraulics reach operating temperature..... pure conjecture, and no data to support that... just a "feel" repeated over-n-over the last few days....... See WINTER UPDATE at end of...

bump for my 11/23 update.... Bumped settings 2 clicks softer after spring settling under vehicle loads, making ride a bit on the harsh side for daily driving... my target settings are for daily driving, Norcal bumpy freeways, and good cornering. See the 11/23 update and 11/24 testing on the...

Overpowering the front wheels and getting spin, especially in a hard turn, will occur more often with lighter wheels. Like the other guy said, more horsepower to the wheel which is in an angled position under heavy load. Sticky tires (R-compound) will keep you moving, not spinning.

Ya, I read Rotus's link and knew about his blown coilover with the AWR endlinks. The suspension shop I went to suggested those M3 endlinks which fit perfectly for the set up as they installed it. And over time, the suspension is stiffening up a bit more as I break it in, as Rotus mentioned...

Don't want the rear coming around too fast on hard corners. Street driven. I got the coilovers NIB from a guy who rolled his MS3 before he even took them out of the box. $1500.00, about the same cost as a new set of KW-V2's.... and no sales tax. I hate sales tax.

OK, so I bought a New-In-Box (NIB) set of KW-V3's to add to my already altered with Hotchkis sway bar set (F+R) '09 MS3. Hotchkis bars have been on for about 6 months and have given the MS3 a great new feel, less bump-steer, and better cornering. Rear bar is on the "softer" of the two settings...

Hmmmm..... interesting..... Anyone that installs it, do post impressions on handling improvements and quick-release ease. In a pinch and surrounded by gang-bangers, it could be pulled and used as a handy swingable weapon too. Crack a few turns, crack a few heads..... I like it. It doesn't mount...

placement of cool air around the catch-can and exposed surface area to the vapor to allow condensation would seem to be a priority item to get it to work as desired. What about having a way to mount the CC to the side of the Corksport cold air box for cooling? Granted, the lines would be really...

A rattle at startup when the engine and transmission aren't really engage (putting a load on the engine/drivetrain) really doesn't sound like an engine mount to me. Sounds more like a loose heat shield that rattles a bit only when the engine first jiggles it, until it heats up and doesn't...

If tightening the endlinks doesn't do it, check the condition of the sway bar bushings. If they are worn or cracked, the bar will clunk-hit the sway bar bracket as it squishes down hard on the broken rubber. Probably would only happen during hard corners and / or big bumps though.

+1 for Hotckis sway bar set. Takes away bump-steer and takes away harshness as well due to poly sway bushings. Best bang-for-the-buck.

+1 for the best-bang-for-the-buck first mod. Hotchkis sways.... Best $350 you will spend. Also decreases "bump-steer" and takes some harshness out of the suspension due to their better bushings.

The lower one isn't blown is it? Did you get these coilovers used or new?

In 4th and 5th especially, if the RPMs go up fast, but your vehicle speed doesn't advance and you feel no "pull", the clutch is more than likely sub-par.

If you are going to be at the track a lot, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Broken bolts and sagging engines do not a nice sound make.