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that idea came to me while working at a shop in austin....how convient for me that a mattress store was next door to us.

check your local mattress store for the plastic "bag" they ship mattresses in...it's thick, durable, and works great for protecting your car.....just a thought

i'm not sure what "measurements" you're looking to get right...or what exactly you plan to accomplish with fiberglass....if you mean to calculate the internal volume...there are a couple of ways...depending on the complexty of the enclosure's shape, you may be able to use simple math...

the guy i spoke of doing 49's with the 8 L7 was doing something much more sinister before this.....pushing the 150 mark with a pair of 6x9 woofers (MA Audio) in a ported enclosure in the same vehicle.....he beat a guy at a show in south texas who was running three JL 10W7's....how bad is that...

part of running all my wires to the rear is the painted fiberglass project i start on once i finish the ****** WRX i'm working on now. plus i installed the alarm brain under the drivers seat, no one would think to look there....well, execpt you fuckers now.....but workin in a custom shop has...

i have a buddy doing a 148-149 with a single Solo L7 8 in a ported box...in a stock 85 honda civic (stock alternator/battery, etc and no interior mod's)

we use a kicker made enclosure on our show floor to demo the 12" L5 or L7 (whichever is loaded at the time) and that box is very impressive. it stands vertically with the woofer plane at 45 degrees and the port at the bottom firing out the front. the low end extension is great, although tonal...

i use my deadblow hammer from Snap-On...slammed down on some concrete (bay floor)....then solder it, never have problems 4ga, 2ga, 1/0...whatever ring terminals for 1/0 neat trick...get some copper pipe with an internal size to match the 1/0 when stripped of insulation...cut a 1-1.25" piece...

personally, i think the W7 is way overmarketed, and as you said, salesmen have convinced people that they're an SPL sub, when in fact, JL designed them to have the most accurate tonal reproduction around (i dont think they achieved it)....for pure bass output, i'd go DD, hands down...i've...

thank you, i'm glad my many years of experience in this field haven't lead to ignorance! :) much appreciated

what do you want for them? keep in mind...I work for a BA retailer and can get tha s*** cheap...

it can be done in so many ways. as mazdadan said, you can do it with a couple of relays and a resistor (lock and unlock are on the same wire, but with a different resistance to ground) i would recommend just going for an aftermarket alarm. i have the Viper 790XV (2 way) alarm with remote...

i agree, no negative effects, i plan on inverting the Boston Pro 12.5 LF i have when i actually have time to work on my own frickin car and not everyone else's

Z6 would be my first choice, but since i got the Rally RC820's for workin on the boss' f'n subaru wrx, i'm actually quite please with them considering the 6x8 dropped right in.

hammer on concrete, then hit it with a butane torch and solder....that's the easiest/best way

i ran 4ga down the drivers side 3 rca's and 2 symbilink (balanced audio) and speedwire (4pr spkr wire and remote turn on all in a single cable) .....all down the passenger side, no problems door sills pop up, kick panels have a tab in the back that you'll pull first, then they pop off....pull...

use the factory wires, there will be absolutely no gain from running new wire through into the door. to run the wire through, you must pull the rubber boot, then pull the molex plug from the door frame and drill through the plastic plug. this is a major pain in the you know what and totally...

There is always the option to have the enclosure and amp rack finished in vinyl...paint and carpet aren't your only options. one thing to cosider...build AS MUCH of the project out of MDF 3/4" or 5/8"....and do as little as possible out of fiberlgass. consider that it takes a lot of fiberglass...