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Thanks for the info guys. I'll check into it.

What is the cheapest way to get my stock MSP to run the way it was supposed to from the factory? It's been flashed. I haven't been on this board in a while, and I know there are a lot more options now than a year ago for engine management. I don't plan on modding my car, just want to make it...

Mine's bone stock down to the tires. 22k miles. I'm thinking about a Unichip though.

I sent an email to Jack Freidman at Unichip last week and he referred me to Rob at Pineapple Racing for questions about this application. I called Rob and he told me you need a minimum of 95 octane to run map B, or the knock sensor will pull timing and kill the power. He also said it cures all...

You guys that have door dings should try one of the "paintless" dent repair places. I had a nasty dent/ding in my right rear door. I called Dentpros, and they came out to my work and removed it for $90. You can't even tell there was a ding there, and the guy buffed the paint and removed the...

Guys, the scales are different for torque and horsepower. Look to the left and right of the dyno graph and you'll what I'm talking about. It's just the way the software is set up, it can be changed. Because they don't cross at 5252 doesn't mean they're bogus dyno charts.

Where can I order one from and how much $$$ are they?

It could be your ac compressor cycling on and off. If you have it set to heater or defroster the compressor will cycle on and off and cause the idle to jump around.

Jeezus, if I got 200 miles to a tank I'd sell my car. I get 350-400 miles city and highway combined. And I don't baby my car, but I don't beat the s*** out of it either. That's driving 80 + on the freeway.

If you have the heater or defroster on the engine will shudder when the ac compressor cycles on and off. Happens every minute or so on my car.

No, I wouldn't. My MSP looks great and handles great, but the number of problems I've had and the poor dealer service I've received have soured me on it. Some guys on this forum talk trash about Mustangs, but I've owned 4 and combined they didn't have as many problems as my MSP. BTW..if...

1.- Hesitation...flashed but still not right. Car stumbles and is faster at 1/2 throttle than full throttle. 2.- Rear suspension clunk. Fixed with 156e bushings. 3.- Squeaking front bushing when weather is cold. 4.- Stereo has freaked out on me twice. 5.- Engine vibration is very high and...

I've been pulled over 2 times in 2 months, got a ticket for 62 in a 50 and a fixit ticket for my window tint. The CHP that got me for window tint pulled a 180 on a 4 lane highway and chased me down....for tinted windows!!! Unbeleivable.

I think I have a broken motor mount. My car vibrates like crazy. Is this something that I will be able to see visually? For those guys that have had this problem, could you see a gap in the mount or what?

My 92 5.0 ran 14.6 at 93 bone stock. 14.1 with gears and flows. Be careful if you're going to race any 87-93 5.0, since most aren't stock nowadays.

I didn't think about an engine mount. I'll check it out tomorrow.

You could feel it vibrate if you put your hand on it, but it didn't visibly vibrate.

My MSP has 10k miles on it, and it has always been smooth. In the last couple of weeks I've noticed an increase in engine vibration at all speeds and rpms. It almost feels like it's running on 3 1/2 cylinders. I can feel it through the steering wheel, shifter and pedals. At idle the shifter...

I had a 94GT auto. Heavy and slow with an auto. Probably close to 16 in the quarter mile. 175 whp and 3600 pounds. You do the math.

Mine is really loud, but the "Master Tech" at the dealer claims it's normal for this engine. They also claim the pulling to the left and clunk from the rear suspension is normal, so that shows you what they know.