Search results

Anyone figure out where to lubricate the fuel door cable so that the catch will fully engage the fuel door?

good, classic info. BTW, what is used to attach rear lip? a couple screws at the end and 3m dbl sided tape otherwise?

do you live in salt country? we had a couple break too on our 2010, likely due to corrosion. then found steel ones that should hold up better than the aluminum ones. so far, so good. for whatever reason, after replacement, the rear is not as quiet as it used to be as there are still some...

Ruckus, another more urgent IM sent. thx

Ruckus, IM sent. thx

Does a blown LSD typically require a new case? I'm wondering if there is a typical situation as the tranny shops say they can't give a good quote until they see the carnage and determine if a whole new tranny makes more sense (more expensive for the whole tranny obviously, but less shop time...

Ruckus, thanks for the idea! I'm not in a big hurry as i have another car. The Speed is sitting in the street so i'd like to get it moved off in a couple weeks so the neighbors don't get too annoyed (been sitting there a couple weeks already). (My driveway is a hill, so I can't get it out of...

thanks all. Natey, the car grinds like a mofo now- there aint no driving until this thing is fixed. i'm still considering options; tending to fix and keep. just got to figure out how to fix this (up/downgrade, stock, etc.)

Another, what's my car worth question. Dang it- blew the LSD (Limited Slip Differential) yesterday. Maybe this is a sign i should finally move on. So now I'm thinking about selling it to my a neighbor kid who's had one of these cars in the past and has always admired my well preserved example...

66k miles just took it out of "winter" storage and rollin' on the mazda5 rims from my wife's vehicle that i stored it on- looks horrible! 10th year of ownership...and going strong.

All, Basically just tyring to figure out what price to sell a short block for- any suggestions? Short block from Mazdaspeed Protg, low mileage (63k). This short block had a clicking wrist pin (cylinder #3), thus the removal. Removed by local Mazda dealer. Picture is the old block in the box...

Thanks again for the ideas. I'll put this request on pause as I need to collect more baseline data. I wasn't able to re-create it this past weekend (i guess that is some good news in a way). I'll keep vigilante and post a different request soon about an unrelated symptom that is 100%...

it seems like it is more obvious going left; i'll verify soon

thx for the ideas! something w/ the axles seem like a possibility. I haven't worked on axle parts before so I can't guess at the issue. i'm almost positive that interference w/ the wheel well shrouding is not the cause. i changed from different wheel/tires for autox and everything i could...

What would cause binding sounds from the engine/tranny area when slowly rolling at full steering lock? All else is fine; diff seems to be working. Back story: due to unexpected wrist pin failure cylinder #3 (ticking noise), had short block replaced by certified mazdaspeed dealer using OEM...

that's make things a bunch easier to find a replacement part! I'll try to take a peak under a regular protege soon

Thanks KF and HF for confirming my suspicions. I'm now on the hunt for that part and will put a new thread in the wanted section soon. It's not in any catalogs and maybe came w/ the S-pipe which is no longer available.

I got my car back from some service and noticed a place something could be bolted to, on the stock s-pipe, but nothing is. it's on the bottom of the s-pipe, right before the j-pipe (down pipe) and sticks out and is the size of a fat thumb. What, if anything, is bolted to this? I am guessing...

ticking- hopefully not the wrist pin

me too- today on the short commute home from work. all original/OEM (well, not tires, brake pads- duh!) plus recent AXR rear clunk fix added. stereo took a dump last week, so i'll need to do the flex circuit fix dealio. a/c flicker happens too otherwise, still feeling like a new car for...