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They are aftermarket Berneckly(sp?) mounts, The car had one solid Poly race style mount on the lower front mount that I put back to stock. As for seafoam, you have actually already recommended that to me and I did that back in november, pcb. It helped a lot then but I don't know if it will help...

I have recently installed new motor mounts, seemed to correct my vibration issue for a couple of days, recently after a short trip at highway speeds the vibration returned, I have no engine codes other than an ongoing p0705(neutral sensor issue). I should note that I have recently installed a...

Just so everyone knows, I have not tried this yet, I have been very busy, I am going to put in new motor mounts and headers in the next few weeks I will try to resolve this issue then.

Going to steal the topic... My car is slow to shift 1st through 3rd when rev'ed past 3,000 rpm or so... what would cause this? is it an aging transmission or do I just need to do bushings and fluid? is a MT.

Still looking.

Amen, I'm not sure why anyone would care what you did with your car, btw I admire the ingenuity. I'm not sure why anyone would get upset. I have the same level of home rigging on my own car... one tip: replace that back section of you intake with the rubber original, that u-pipe is currently...

the cable was the issue, it was stretched... kind of sucky to get to btw.

Im really wanting stainless steel headers that are not iron, its okay if I have to buy new, I havent ordered anything yet because I won't have downtime to do the swap until probably january, I was just seeing if I could snag someones used ones for under 80$ after shipping... If I can't I will...

Still looking.

Mine just rolled over 240k and is running like a champ, just maintain it and keep an eye on potential developing problems and you will be fine.

Pretty much the problem. it will blow air out of the vent selected but will always also blow out the floor vents, wouldnt be a problem except when I run the ac as it doesn't push enough air to the back for my Daughter. Where do I look, I have never messed with cabin controls before, are they...

Naw, They're not required where I am from so I would just assume remove it entirely.

Check your motor mounts, and pay attention to wether its actually happening under load(acceleration). Mine does the same thing and my mounts are shot, I just ordered new one.

I got what your saying, I will as soon as I get some garage time, because at this point I don't believe it could be anything else. looking at the diagram, I would have to say that that switch takes way too long of a trip to the ECU and that was poor engineering and sooner or later they're going...

One more thing I noticed... when the car is warmed up it idles constantly at around 700 rpm, maybe, the ECU is reading clutch engaged? like at all times.

Just seeing if I can score a cheap header for the car, needs to line up with the EGR and o2 my Primary cat has a crack through it and I totally am not paying for a new one. honestly just seeing if someone has an old one lying around, I know I can get them new for under $80

I am going to give this a go after a trip I need to take this weekend. So I should go for the neutral safety first? or the backup light or the Cruise disengage, because all three of these will independently give that code...

Well, same problem this morning, could a cold morning be a factor here? I'm running out of ideas, how could that code not throw last night, I put 20 miles on it and put the car in to neutral and stopped a ton...

I am sorry its the cruise disengage sensor on the clutch pedal... and I did do frequent stops Im pretty sure.

Okay so update, on a whim I decided to swap the DTC sensor(cruise) back out with the old one, clear the code, and then I went driving. I read somewhere that it has to go in and out of neutral 10 times over 20 miles and hour, well I drove around town about 15 miles and hopped in and out of gear...