Search results

cylinder deactivation is not defeatable.

The sway bar is not locked to the chassis, but pivots in the bushings. So there is only torque when one wheel is at a different height to the other. If both wheels are at the same height (high OR low) there is no torque (twist) from (in) the bar.

Can't you end the call with the steering wheel button?

In most cars (anyway) the alternator is grounded via the engine block, so ALL the alternator 'return' current goes through the ground strap(s). I had said: But this has now finally been answered by @AL Cx5's response below. If he'd said this earlier on, then given all that load on the...

Even with the two straps having (presumably) different resistances, any current will still be split across both as a ratio between the two resistances. That means if 8amps is really running through that new strap, then the other(s) is/are carrying something less than, but approaching, that as...

Yeah, also a retired electronic engineer with 45 years of experience here... Note that I simply said "ground strap". I know it's a negative 'ground' chassis. My point is that the engine block is already at negative potential based on the factory "ground straps". Adding another strap might...

If there's nothing wrong, then where is that current coming from? 8amps flowing through a ground strap? What the...?

Something must be wrong here. After all the engine block *IS* already grounded (even if not perfectly). I cannot believe there are 5+amps flowing through these grounds.

TPMS system is required by law in the US (not sure about Canada). First gen CX-5s used wheel speed sensors to detect differences in wheel rotations, but 2nd gen and on use TPMS sensors in each wheel.

Downhill, with a back wind... :D

Take a look at @sm1ke 's post here: 2016~2023 - CX-9 Rear diff failure at 113k kms (70k mi) Looks like $1000 for labor to replace, plus the cost of a diff/carrier. Seems like your $2600+ for a used part is excessive.

The chances are that this is simply brake pad material baked onto the disc rotors, possibly due to heavy braking followed by holding the brakes on while the discs are hot. You could try one (or both) of two things. First, redo the brake bedding procedure of (on a deserted straight road)...

It will be a metric nut. If you have calipers (or even a ruler) measure the diameter of the bolt (or inside diameter of the other side nut). Chances are it's 5mm, if so, you'll need an M5 nut.

The high beams are used at lower power for DRLs. So, replacing the high beams with LEDs will cause flickering, possibly codes, and other nasties. Replacing the low beams (presuming you have projector low beams) will be fine, though.

Google it! Gracenote - Wikipedia

That has been my experience too, on other cars. And it also leads me to doubt what the dealer was saying was true/accurate. I would also agree with the "remove the headlight, and go over all possible seams where a leak could occur" idea.

Holy crap! $5000 to replace a diff? Ouch.

Unfortunately, they DO do it, at least on iStop cars.

OK, so I'm stepping back a little from my statement above... Last night I had occasion to drive the wife's CX-5 again. What I DID notice as a difference to my CX-50, was that the initial 'bite' of the brakes was an appreciable way down the brake travel from that in the -50. Once the brakes...

Interesting. Do you know if that also allows for 'resetting' the battery status after changing (in an iStop car)?