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Are you sure it's not just the switch (or wiring)?

If you get the cheapo cube tool and no sides fit, you should be able to 'adjust' the pegs on the closest-fitting side with a Dremel and grinding (or cutting) wheel. Ask me how I know :)

Very interesting, but what does this gain you? (I.e. what are the advantages?)

It could definitely be a relay. Unfortunately, the wiper relays are internal to the front BCM, and so I don't believe they are easily replaceable.

Not sure what that is! Not the tie-down hook though. That goes in the top red circle in the pic above.

Sorry, coming late to this party... I don't agree, actually. A wider tire will have a wider contact patch. The tread area is significantly thicker and stiffer than the sidewall, so the sidewalls will be forced to angle in to the wheel, leaving the tread (at least mostly) the same width as...

Yes, correct. Because it allows them to use just 4 wires (power/ground/sig+/sig-) to support up to five buttons and two indicator LEDs, which would otherwise take at least 8 wires. So, wiring weight and space/complexity savings (I presume).

Did you try turning the radio volume up WHEN the directions should be being announced?

Sorry, but that's not how it works (at least on my CX-50, and I've no reason to think the CX-5 is different). The buttons are just inputs to a microcontroller, which sends commands via a serial interface to the BCM/ECM. The istop 'dongle' actually connects between the switch unit and BCM/ECM...

Sigh. It's NOT a "solid rear axle". It's actually an extended (U-shaped) torsion beam. It acts like a very stiff sway bar in effect.

Just FYI, this is the switch wiring diagram. You could try bridging the connector pins L and M first, to see if the switch is the problem:

They can only duplicate an existing key. If you don't have a key, then the dealer is the only option (by looking up the VIN). Also, Home Depot will now only cut a key if they have their own compatible blank. It's all by computerized machine, not like the old days :( Most Ace (and other indy...

That's not a hot rod, that's a top fuel dragster!

Sound like maybe it's the switch?

Yeah, ALWAYS pull the 'fill' plug first, and THEN the drain plug. This is in case you can't remove the fill plug after you drained the transmission (don't ask me how I know this :( ).

Ha! HA ha ha! Hee hehah! You obviously have not read the LCA replacement threads on here! :ROFLMAO:

The first number (like the 5 in 5W-30) relates to the cold temp performance. It's the second number (30) that relates to the HIGH temp performance. Thus, in that table, they are all -30 weight, which is why the high temp bars all end at the same point. If you need protection at even higher...

Frozen water.

Yeah, that's why I made the comment for the ones I got.