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You might want to rethink changing that air filter so often, a dusty filter is more efficient:

Valid question and I often question the validity of the "under filled" statement. I think they put the amount they feel is required. But, the service manual does say fill until it runs out of the hole. From a 2013 service manual, don't know if it applies to the newer models but I don't see why...

Must've had a senior moment, lol. 2013~2016 - CX-5 Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change: Tools, Parts and Links

You won't get the same reading with a temp gun. I already compared one with my OB2. Maybe try using a meat thermometer in the dipstick hole.

You can a whole bag of those 15mm washers from Amazon.

You will need to get 2 quarts, you won't need it all but you will have a little leftover.

Interesting conversation with the parts guy at my Mazda dealership today. I went in to get a couple of oil filters and antifreeze, I specifically asked for the "Thailand" filters as I didn't want the MV filters. He said they (the dealership) didn't carry the MV filters anymore. I asked why and...

What trim do you have? I never heard of the CX5 doing that.

This is an issue that has popped up with other brands and is a long term concern, particularly with Honda.

No, I believe the issue was a worm gear inside the unit got hung up on some bad machining. Eventually it broke loose, but the car was only a year old at the time.

Known issue for that year, happened to me. Rear calipers will most likely have to be replaced with an updated version if it hasn't happened already. Follow this link to get the TSB: 2016 CX-5 Brake issues...Any thoughts?

Exactly. Former Hyundai owner here. Never again, and you'd be hard pressed to find anyone who got engine warranty work at 98,000 miles..

could very well be. Try disconnecting it.

I'd start checking any and all grounds, look for corrosion, make sure those battery clamps aren't corroded on the inside and tight enough.

I'd try a new battery, not recharging the old one, a new one

As far as the trans goes, best to refill with the same amount you took out, measure the fluid when it's cold. Then back off your plywood on a level surface and check the fluid at the appropriate temperature, 122 degrees F. It won't matter too much with the others. There's lots of room underneath...

That Valvoline seems like amazing stuff.

Lots of in-depth conversations of synthetic oils on that forum enough to make your head spin.

Mobile 1 isn't a fully Group IV synthetic, hasn't been for quite a few years. They were 30% PAO a few years ago and since then that percentage has dropped. About the only true PAO oil I'm aware of is Ravenol, maybe HPL.

I miss those greasable ball joints, at least when the seal starts cracking you know you can get some lubrication in there.