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2026 CX-50 Spec Sheet Per request:

Check out the spec sheet links in Copilot

AI answer from 2 search engines: Cylinder Deactivation in the 2026 Mazda CX-50 No, the 2026 Mazda CX-50 does not have cylinder deactivation. This feature has been eliminated for the 2026 model year, meaning that all models will operate without this technology. Overview of Engine Options The...

Hey, regardless. It's a good conversation no matter where it's at and I'm glad this came up again. Seems to be a lot of confusion regarding CD on the newer models and the sales people don't seem to have a clue as to what's what, which I find quite annoying considering the amount of money being...

Ok, so, different coding and programming but still CD for both models regardless.

Well then it means he has a turbo which I didn't think they offered for 2026 according to the website, no? I can't see Mazda using a different 2.5 liter for the CX5 than the CX50. Now, if they did away with CD for this particular model then sign me up, I like the CX-50.

How did you verify that? Welcome to the forum by the way.

Depends on which grade you use. The Mobil/Exxon and Shell premium fuels supposedly do a better job than their 87 fuels.

I use it regularly, great stuff.

So, where are we on this issue? It's been a while and I haven't seen too many complaints lately on this board anyway about CD. Does everyone think Mazda actually beat all the problems on CD or are there still issues? Mazda Cylinder Deactivation Problems: What Every Owner Should Know

No, nutball drivers should stay the hell off the road....

And who "verifies" it as structural or superficial? There's not a responsible tire shop that's going to say it's ok. Been there, done that.

Cracking inside or outside is not safe. It's a sign of a deteriorating tire. But, hey, to each his own. It's not something I feel safe having family members in out on the freeway.

At that age they're not safe, tend to dry rot faster. That's why you need to check that date code when you buy used tires.

Yes, in case you don't know it's actually one piece, plug attached to the patch. The bead has to be broken and you have to scuff the inside of the tire with a tool so there's better adhesion.

A few years ago I was looking for new snow tires and the garage I go to for tires only said they had a good deal on a set of tires they had in the back. The date code showed they were manufactured 6 years prior, yeah they were "new" still having the original manufacturers stickers on but too old...

Why do you want to go to a 40 weight?

Patch with the plug is the proper and best way to go. Cracking indicates dry rot, get rid of them. Also, when you buy a "new" set of tires check the date code. Anything older than 7 years is a no-go.

Consumption can be caused by gummed up rings as seen on engines with high OCI, fuel dilution, shear down, etc.. The Valvoline Protect and Restore seems to solve this by its incredible cleaning abilities, just one example of a good oil solving a simple consumption issue. I think 5w-30 is way more...

Yeah, that's another big thing with these engines, particularly with DI, fuel dilution and oil shear down. Another reason why I stick with the 5w-30 boutique oils.