Search results

Wait... does this happen when you're driving? If so, this is definitely a safety problem and you need to go back to the dealer ASAP! Otherwise, does your key fob memory setting have the seat all the way back? If so, you may be accidentally pressing the key fob button in your pocket.

Doesn't work on my CX-50 (can only roll down).

Well, I have one data point... I got a pair (only came as a pair) of front arch trims from Amazon to replace one on my daughter's car that was scraped up. They shipped them folded in half, which kinked them so badly that they wouldn't straighten out, even with heat. So please check the reviews...

This is an electrically-operated throttle (drive-by-wire), so a CAI will have no effect. Maybe try lubricating your pedal (or check if anything is interfering with it) if you're have a 'feel' issue.

That has been broken off the fender, leaving those "plastic pieces that surround 2 on the push pins" which were originally part of the trim moulding. The different color pins were likely original, just reuse them if needed when you get a replacement piece.

Troll much?

Yep. I did pretty much exactly the same thing when I bought our CX-50.

I have (and have used) Kroil. But with anything I've tried it on, it has not seemed to provide much relief. I always assumed that those bolts/nuts were just TOO rusted, and that no penetrating oil would have worked. But, I just watched that video above (thanks @GovtCheese!) and see that it...

I would attribute this more to wind resistance (and friction losses) rather than running rich. The ECM will (should) always strive for perfect stoichiometric ratio for emissions reasons.

Well, there's this thread: DIY - Ball joint (Only) Replacement - 2016 CX-5 But the Lower Control Arm (LCA) is not meant to be serviceable, so most people just replace the whole LCA. A search of the forum for LCA shows a lot of threads on this: Search results for query: lca

You have to call in to Mazda customer service to get all the data collection FULLY disabled. As far as I've found there's no other alternative. I need to do this myself, but have not yet mustered the will ... :(

Do you (or your wife) have Android Auto running, or is this question for the cars factory radio system? If you are both using the same mechanism and your wife's phone works, I would look into your phone/app's settings.

Well, color me embarrassed. I only knew of A/C clamp meters, so that would explain my error. :(

I know I'm being a bit anal here, so forgive me, but these meters work on electromagnetic induction, not Hall effect, which is a different thing (most commonly used in sensors that detecting rotation via spinning discs with embedded magnet(s))).

I got a cheapy pair off Amazon and they were locked up initially. I had to beat on them with a mallet and wooden blocks to get them to release before I installed them. After that though, they were fine and smooth and have remained so for the six years since.

Before you buy, make sure it's sensitive enough to read down to mA (milliamps), otherwise you'll be reading zero when it's not.

Has anyone seen what the config options are for the dash display/gauges? The few reviews I've seen show just digital displays for speedo, etc. Anyone know if you can configure 'old style' analog circular gauges?

Autoweek new review is up, and they talk about the improved handling and more: https://www.autoweek.com/news/a70425039/2026-mazda-cx-5-drive-review/

Gray for me.

Yay! What did I win? ;)