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its about 30min north of gettysburg, he said he'll be there sat&sun morning so i'm gonna try and go up sunday if i dont have to work, maybe i can finally figure out what exactly is wrong with this thing. i called around to ask if anyone knew where a dyno was and this is the guy i was pointed to...

actually i just found a place in york, pa that will do 3 pulls with a\f for $75...not bad, i think i'll go there :)

hmm, found a dyno in westminster, md and they want $115 for 2 pulls and the a/f read out.......this sounds a little high is it not??? dont suppose anyone knows of another dyno regionally to me??

(omg) it been in for a good 15,000 miles. hopefully i can find a dyno...i guess.

i understand you completely, but....if it has been reading correct for maybe 45,000 miles now, and all the suden reads dead lean under this specific condition i dont see why it would only malfunction at that exact point and work correctly all other times....and if i stay in it while it reads...

yeah i checked em that way too. wires read fine, one was 3.5 or so and the other about 9. and they are both within there ranges because each one is different. i cant get either coil to read and that really doesnt make any sense? the continuity test shows that there must be a major short inside...

...well then, you come by and fix it, i'm not makin this s*** up??? i'll buy ya a case of beer if you can figure it out... as far as a vac leak VA03, which one might you be referring too? a split line could be a possibility, i havent heard anything and def looked over and over.

already tried that, no luck... u2 sensor was clean as a whistle when i pulled it too. i think the problem is in the coils. checked them today with an multimeter and could get any reading out of them? but i already posted about that problem...

well, it was just for reference.nothing specific, but you get the idea.and i retract what i said about the high tension leads, i had them backwards and wasn't getting an accurate reading, they are both ok, but checked, re-cheacked, and double checked the coils and cant get them to read...

as instructed by the shopmanual- hooked the multimeter up to the outputs on each coil. say coil one charges cyl 1 & 3, manual says to ceck resistance connecting from the high tension lead to the boot that goes down into the cylinder head to connect to the spark plug.

so this is an update to my ongoing problem with lean a/f reading approaching wot and open loop control. i decided that since i wasnt getting anywhere on here and the cpu wont through a cell that ill have to check everything manually. got the multimeter out and tested injectors-ok, maf-ok, then...

you have a vac leak, check ALL your connections. then maybe pull your egr and clean it real good too. i had your problem a while back, but i cant remember how i got rid of it....i seem to think it had to be a vac problem though. and as for my problem.......ITS STILL LEAN.....maybe its not the...

i dont know what it is, i pulled the front bank o2 today and cleaned it with brake parts cleaner and it actually didnt look that bad when i pulled it so i dont think it is it...i dont know what it could be :wtf:

ill try and pull it and clean it out today, i dont figure there is anyway to test it to see if its completely burned out...? as far as leaning for a few seconds i could see that, but this is def staying lean.... ...pulled the b**** out and it really didnt look that bad at all, but i sprayed it...

how great is great, i seem to remember oem sensors going for $260 or so.... :-\ i just thought of this though, since i have the mil eliminator installed on the second o2 sensor, it wouldnt pick up any malfunctions coming from the first one...would it? i had to put that on when i gutted the cats.

no, this can be at any rpm as long as there is a load and i am approaching wot, right when it should switch from closed to open loop. wonder where i could find a replacement, or better yet...i have a bosch 02 sensor that i never put in my rx-7 and i'm curious if its the same, just a thought...

well, assuming the problem is with the transition from closed loop to open, what determines when and how that swith is made? i would think the o2 sensors, but if they were bad than i would have a cell......?

lets say the problem is that it is just not switching from closed loop to open loop. what would cause this.....if the front bank o2 sensor was bad and the rear was still good than it would read the lean condition in open loop. that probably wouldnt be right either, cause then it would throw a...

interesting how this thread landed here......

yeah thats what puzzles me, there is no cell with this. so that leads me to believe the problem is with the fuel, but i dont know what to look into, im not gonna go out and replace the whole fuel system till i figure out what it is??? spraying out the maf with carb cleaner wont short out the...