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My 2010 MT at 140k miles is going strong. I wonder how these MTs could even break? Does the car even have that much power? I know the clutch can go and the dealer I bought from claimed a clutch was installed at 110k Miles but that's expected maintenance. My 2010 has been a solid car and I...

Realistically, I would not expect the radio unless the installer spliced into the wiring harness somewhere and nicked one of the blower motor wires. Did you take any of the old motors out and test them? I guarantee you that not a single one was bad. (maybe just the first one) The only way to...

Yup. I looked at replacing the left center one on my 2010. The whole section around it needs to be removed. I just live with it. I glued it once but it didn't hold. But yeah, you'll need a large replacement piece of ducting, etc since everything seems to be integrated. Old cars used to...

2021 is a tad too new for aftermarket parts. Most of that stuff is still under warranty and won't break yet.

Disconnect hoses and blow through them? You didn't mention changing the sensor. It may be bad.

Well, as you've found out the "mid-class" parts industry has basically been dead for 5-10 years now. You get to pick from: OEM trash Chinese garbage niche performance parts. There was a time I could go to NAPA and get better than average quality but all the parts suppliers raced to the bottom...

This is an interesting one...so you have TOO MUCH vacuum. This means that you don't have a leak but a blockage: A blocked EVAP canister or vent solenoid A defective tank pressure sensor A collapsed or kinked hose between the canister and fuel tank A fuel filler cap that has been stuck closed...

@Royx Check all grounds. Then check all power connections. Look for damaged wiring. I assume you mean a P0500 code? And not a "P500a"?

I go to the Mazda dealer for OEM parts. I did get KYB struts for my 2008 and those are very similar to OEM. But if you want OEM you've always had to go to the dealer (or use a discount online Mazda dealer).

Clean your throttle body. If you have gunk like that on the MAF you may have a ring of crud around the TB butterfly that is messing with idle.

Depends on your skill level. It's not hard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsspgV4ubkg

Does this car have an IAC? If so, clean it and the throttle body and if needed, replace the IAC. Also suspect the TPS like you mentioned.

Define..."won't start"? When you turn the key, what happens? Do you hear a click? Does the engine turn over but not fire up? Honestly between the security setups in modern cars and all the electronics between the key and the starter, you may need to take it to a dealer to get it sorted.

No, a running motor after a jump doesn't mean the alternator is fine. The battery just needs to output the smallest of charges to keep the engine running. Only when you run that battery down to literally nothing, will the car not run after a jump. I've literally run a car with a disconnected...

Thanks!

Post a part number? Others may need it.

I have never gotten aftermarket rear wipers to work. I get them from Mazda and they work fine.

Go to Autozone and get the battery and alternator tested for free. Don't just buy a battery you may not need.

Flush your coolant. Why did you put that stuff in anyways? You can't seal a radiator leak. You must replace it.

What's a coolant flange?