Search results

I replaced the thermostate assembly on a 2008 Mazda 3 2.3L for that code and it stayed off. Those thermostates don't last much past 10 years. I'm betting the sensor is not bad. They just want to replace it to cover their bases.

Next time you get new tires, have them replace all the sensors...including the spare if it has one. People forget to check the spare tire.

Did you have the codes pulled from the TCM?

Replace the pump. you can replace the fluid, but doubtful it will fix anything. I don't know why it would need reprogramming if you do replace it. Plenty of online videos for replacing these pumps. Edit: Check the wiring to the pump itself. BAd wiring or bad ground can cause issues.

Well, it could be the ABS Control module itself. Always check all your grounds though. All engine grounds and body grounds. Bad grounds will cause very goofy situations.

How interesting. I too would think the glass would be suspect. Tempered glass will just explode into a million pieces. I don't believe sunroof glass is laminated like the windshield which will stay together when a tempered layer is violated. Does the sunroof open and close properly other...

Buy through Amazon. Return the one that doesn't work.

Wheel stud, you just whack it out and hammer in a new one. I did 2 on my 2008 Mazda 3. I got them from Autozone, had to sand the splines down slightly, whacked out the old one and pounded in the new one. 20 minute fix. Leaking racks can last forever...you just need to add more fluid...

OK, so you don't have a clutch. You have clutch packs. 2 entirely different things. You can't fix it unless you replace the transmission. Over 100k miles, these transmissions are working on their end of life. My daughter's 2008 automatic has like 120k miles and the transmission had its...

I buy the FSM PDFs on ebay. It's worth risking the $15. I haven't been scammed yet and the documents have been invaluable and have paid for themselves a hundred times over.

Year car? Engine? I assume it's an automatic? For my car, the 2.3L for 2008, the Input Speed Sensor appears to connect to the PCM. So I would suspect a bad PCM. You really need the Factory Service Manual for your year vehicle with the wiring diagram to see what best to look at.

The old models used gear oil...like 1970's or earlier. At some point they mostly switched to ATF. Now I think it's hit or miss. So always go by the manufacturer's recommendation. For example a 1965 4 speed Top Loader took a gear oil. 20 years later, a 1985 T-10 took ATF. Dunno what the...

Make sure you put the battery cover on. Or, when your weatherstripping fails at the cowl, which it will, rain will get under the battery and rot everything out.

Most Manual Transmissions take ATF...but it does depend on the manufacturer. It's been that way since the 1980's.

Sounds like wiring or a motor to me.

Is it not accelerating or not shifting? I thought a bad TCM would exhibit erratic shifting or lack of shifting. Once in a gear, shouldn't the car still accelerate even if the TCM is bad? Did you pull codes? I just don't see how the TCM would make the ECU "pop and bang" and run poorly. I...

How many miles on the struts? If you have the original struts and over 100k miles...they are the cause of your clunking. Had clunking on both the 2010 mazda 5 and 2008 mazda 3 I bought and new KYB front struts with new upper OEM bearings fixed the clunking. I did replace the sway bushing on...

Could be a weak fuel pump. A car that runs fine until you accelerate is often a Throttle Body issue or a fuel pump.

Voltage regulator in the alternator is probably cutting out due to too many RPMs. Or belt is slipping.

Electrical OEM parts are always better. But it sounds like you have a short somewhere. So yeah, if you can, test the motor.