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Just found this video for regulator replacement. Bit more involved than one's I did as the regulator mounts to an additional panel that gets removed ,but still doable.

If you decide to replace the regulator with an aftermarket brand you might want to remove and save the motor (if still functional) from the original one ,that is assuming it looks the same and would fit the aftermarket one. Probably held on with 2 screws. I had a motor failure on an aftermarket...

Good for you bailing out of the dealer. I'm sure that a lot of us here would do the same. The best way to start is pulling the door panel and inspecting for binding mechanism while running it up and down and grabbing the glass pane and try to move it around by pulling different directions to see...

First I've heard of A/C condenser prone to leakage. Have other members here experienced this?

I read that comment. I already use good quality gas and oil with lower mileage change intervals. Decent quality filters too. I'm not much of a believer of the "snake oil, miracle product, mechanic in a can" type of additives. However, a legitimate looking product (at least causes no harm) could...

Glad you got it sorted out. Yup, changing the tensioner is a tight squeeze. My tensioner leaked about 7 years ago at 29k miles. The dealer said they usually leak around 40k miles. Was out of 3/36 B-B factory warranty and not covered by 5/60 drivetrain warranty. The dealer quoted $450 for new...

No need to change the water pump especially in light of the high mileage CX-5's with original pump. Also, the water pump is driven by it's own (stretch) belt. The tensioner is only for the serpentine.

Thanks for the hair dryer tip. Never woulda thought to do that. My old serpentine belt didn't look real bad(fraying, deep cracks etc) but had many small cracks after 10-1/2 years and looked a bit dried out. On rubber items I go by time as well as mileage and condition. I doubt it would have...

Forget the dealer and yes their price is outrageous and they can even do the job with the aid of a lift. > use the search and read prior threads about this to get a better understanding. If you changed water pumps on cars before you should be able to do this job. Suggest new belts at this point...

Absolutely, drain and fill only. The "lifetime" fluid is BS in my book for long term owners. In fact, doesn't Mazda recommend AGAINST transmission flush?

Maybe the bulbs were burned out by the old alternator. Time for a little story. Many years ago on a car old enough to have sealed beam headlights and a generator (not alternator) the low beams burned out because of a bad ground on the mechanical voltage regulator. Happened while merging onto the...

At 74k miles on my 2014, many of which are shorter hops, I'm considering Valvoline Restore and Protect for my next oil change. Might help prevent stuck rings and oil consumption problem in the future.

The OP didn't mention oil fouling on plugs, just had oil on plug threads and then changed valve cover gasket. I'd start by reinstalling the original plugs. I see the primary thing as getting it to run good again regardless of what codes are present. The lack of CEL indicates that these are...

Since I rarely have rear passengers I removed the rear headrests years ago. They are kept stored in a zippered tool bag back in the cargo area so they're available if needed.

Never gave it much thought but I'd guess the residual vapors inside the intake manifold condense on the butterfly after engine shutdown.

Haha, yes. I remember almost posting "nitrous" and then thought ,no, that's not right, it's "nitric". And then wrote nitrous anyway.

Yes, it comes through the airflow system. The nasty gunk that has been accumulating inside intake manifolds for years since fuel injection, is formed from oil vapors/combustion gas blow-by introduced by way of the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve directly into the intake manifold to...

Right on. Since I don't plan on attaching any bike racks and other attachments that would be more easily available for class 3, I installed a Curt class 2 and it's still rated at 3500 lbs which is way over the 2000 lb CX-5 max tow rating.

My experience has been the same. Especially with a physically smaller pad that has less material thickness than the front pads.

OK. Let me elaborate a little more. Regardless of the amount of highway driving your car does, let's look at the miles and wear. Putting aside the "red" condition as stated by the dealer, they show 4 mm remaining. If at 37,000 miles the amount of wear [ 7.5 mm (new thickness) minus 4 mm...