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Never gave it a thought. I drained a full gallon from the radiator petcock before changing the hoses.

I don't know either and I'm not particularly concerned for the following reasoning. Last summer when changing the thermostat and radiator hoses, the 4 year old Zerex from the previous service was clean and no buildup/deposits inside the hoses either. Prior to that ,the original factory fill was...

Can't see the coolant making any sort of difference in operating temperature since that's the thermostats job and have no idea what the coolant temperature is at any time unless I plug in my scanner, which isn't very often. Don't have any gauge readouts of any sort other than what came stock on...

I've always gone with servicing the coolant to the bottom of the filler neck on level ground after any air is worked out of the system. Which means checking the level cold for the next few days as operation works the air out and adding more if needed. The constant cycling of coolant back and...

First thing I'd suggest is a new radiator cap. Yours is 9 years old if original. If for no other reason it's good insurance. You didn't mention any leaks but I could see that a leaking radiator cap can allow coolant to slowly "boil away" causing a low level in the radiator. When cooling down...

Last year I pre-emptively replaced some cooling system parts on my 2014 at the 10 year mark. I used Mazda radiator hoses and thermostat. Thermostat was a chore and chose Mazda part because I don't trust aftermarket for such a critical item. Not worth risking overheat/engine damage. The original...

Your MINI no doubt had a heater valve the opened to allow hot coolant into the heater core. The displaced colder coolant then caused the temperature to temporarily drop as you have stated. Our Mazda's (and probably all newer cars) lack a heater valve and coolant is continually flowing through...

I agree with the above posts about changing the gasket. It's good to have one available if there's a problem, that's why I got one out of habit. I'm not specifically recommending to reuse the old one but only that mine could have been if needed. Had no indication of it leaking beforehand. It was...

To answer your question, it's the piston seal (in the bore) that retracts the piston. The seal has a square cross section (as opposed to a round cross section in an o-ring) that distorts when the piston extends and then reverts to it's square shape pulling the piston back (it's only a tiny...

I cleaned my 2014's throttle body about 5 years ago and replaced the gasket only because I already had purchased one ahead of time. I bought a Beck-Arnley brand online for just a few bucks and it was identical, I mean identical (including made in Japan) to the Mazda one that the dealers wanted...

The guy at the parts store (always a source of trusted professional wisdom ---sarc) was half right in the sense that there's sufficient grease if the pins pop out and aren't binding. But the other half is that the air still needs to be burped out by lifting the edge of the accordion boot. You do...

The threaded hole in the rotor typically takes a M8-1.25 bolt (8mm diameter with 1.25mm thread pitch)to act as a "jack screw" to loosen the rotor.

Are you planning on replacing the ball joints only (they press in) or the control arm which comes with LBJ and new bushings. Can't imagine you would leave the old bushings in. Anyway, if doing the LCA, have you seen the threads detailing members experiences or should I say ordeals. You would be...

The OP might consider visiting an auto parts store with the intended filter and purchase a decent Lisle brand cup wrench. The cheap Walmart dual size (ex: 65-67) are lighter gauge metal and don't grip the filter as deep and slip. Also, Lisle makes an expandable wrench to grip hard to remove...

I don't know the OEM suppliers for Mazda. But after replacing the lower control arms with OEM Mazda I went aftermarket with Sankei555 for the tie rod ends and radiator cap and CTR for front stabilizer bar bushings (which had the Mazda p/n and latest revision molded right in--- makes ya wonder)...

After using Mobil 1 and Fram Ultra oil filters, I've settled on Purolator ONE. High filtration efficiency and semi synthetic filter media. Available locally for $7.49 each. The Purolator BOSS is around $ 12.99 IIRC.

As mentioned above there are many threads dealing with transmission service. Here's my thoughts for dealing with this in the here and now. More can be done later. 1) never heard of a "service kit" . Put that on the back burner for now. 2) Not necessary to drop pan and change filter at this...

I just posted it because I came across it and it looked interesting. There's always other filter tests out there with probably different and conflicting results. Rather than overthink it, to maintain consistency since new, my CX-5 will get an OEM Mazda filter which was just ordered.

Thanks. I just looked them up (Toyota and Mazda of North Miami) both have the same dealer principal so it looks legit. I think that just ended my search. It's only a few bucks more than I paid for my last one over 3 years ago. Thanks again.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/brand-ranks-air-filter-test.388431/