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Yea, but I explained WHY.

I'm not sure how correct this is but I remember reading somewhere that low "Freon" refrigerant can cause this. Reason was that the refrigerant entered the evaporator (under the dashboard) from the passenger side and there wasn't enough to allow for full expansion across the whole evaporator so...

Try first thing after sitting all night on level surface. Look at it before wiping off dipstick. Wipe off and insert and read again. Both should be the same.

I got the Mazda floor mats and cargo mat right after purchasing my CX-5. The cargo mat has been great and an absolute must in my book.. The floor mats work for my purposes and look good. The Weathertech mats have deeper sides to contain more dirt, slush etc. I seem to recall that Mazda offered a...

Yes, I think you are correct, and having had a leaking tensioner that was the first thing I thought of also but I didn't see deposit on the body thinking it was just shadow but do see it now. I would have expected more leakage down the side and front. The mileage at 50K fits right in also since...

Looks like rubber residue from belt wear. Check the serpentine belt for excessive wear. Rub some between your fingers to see if it feels oily. Wipe /wash it off and see if it returns.

See my results above. ETA : just to make sure I didn't misread the decimal point location on any reading, I just now did a recheck. It's dark and colder. Same conditions as above. All respective readings higher this time. 1) 18.9A 2) 32.5A 3) 33.9A Time for dinner. G'bye.

This thread on grounding caught my interest and after reading a few pages at a time to the end, I decided to put all of that aside and just see what readings I got on a few cables on my (stock, untouched) 2014 as installed from the factory. Didn't loosen any bolts or clean any connections. Just...

I have the same socket. I like that it has the springs to grip the plug and no rubber insert to fall out.

100% agree. Anti-seize could also add electrical resistance since the plug is grounded to the head though the threads.

There are square (and round) plastic caps that are made to fit in the ends of metal tubing. Also could cover hole with black electrical tape until locating a cover.

Never learned anything about voltage being faster than current. Didn't know voltage had a "speed". I do understand that the speed of electron propagation through conductors varies at somewhat less than the speed of light however. The ELI the ICE man refers to voltage (E) leads current (I) in an...

Makes prospective buyers think it's fast.

I gave up the "bedding" process years ago. Just normal driving and avoiding panic stops if possible. Made sure the rotors and pads were clean. Didn't take long and didn't roll through stop signs from poor braking action.

Doesn't sound like any caliper issues if they aren't leaking, binding or damaged. Never heard of a 150k mile schedule for changing calipers either. My cynical self would say that sounds like something a dealer or garage would say. You've been given good advice above, I'd go with that.

Before pulling the door panel and running the window up and down while observing for discrepancies I'd verify that the outside rubber seal isn't causing excessive drag on the window. The rubber definitely stiffens when cold. Maybe spread something slick like dish soap or silicone grease on the...

What issues are you experiencing with the drivers door window. I've changed a few of these cable type regulators on a previous vehicle and know they don't last forever.

Absolutely pad wear is about usage and not mileage. My local driving with many stops, according to my records, yields ~ 8,000+/- miles per 1 mm of wear. New front pad friction material thickness is 10mm and rear pads 7.5 mm, so it's easy to estimate expected pad life (but still periodically...

Maybe I wasn't clear. I wasn't implying a new one for 22k, I meant that the 22k allocated was a large portion of the price of a new one, so maybe another 6k (?) or so for brand new with warranty. Driving around I see a lot of new cars on dealer lots and year end /slow season is coming.

I follow the same strategy and don't milk the last mile out of components. Especially if they're not too expensive or difficult to change. Your brake pad change pushed the next one out some years.