Search results

I'm 38 with a clean record. I pay $150/month with $1000 deductible.

Ok, thanks. s***, I can't get my dealer to fix it, so I'll have to order the latest bushings from Mazda and install them myself. I was thinking of making new swaybar mounts to move the bushings closer to the bend in the swaybar. Has anyone else tried this? I did a search but didn't find...

I've had the clunk for about 2 months now. My car was up on a lift today getting the oil changed, and I took a close look at the rear bushings. They look fine, no gaps, and are tight against the swaybar. When the bushings go out, can you see that they are bad? If it's not the bushings making...

Ok, so SEMA says we're covered if Mazda doesn't want to honor the warranty because of aftermarket mods. What are we supposed to do when our friendly dealer says our warranty is void because of the boost gauge, or CAI, or whatever? Jump up and down and yell and scream? Not gonna get you...

Ok, so the ticking sound is normal? If it's that loud at 6k miles, I wonder how loud it will be at 60k or 160k.

Mine's valvetrain noise. It speed up and slows down when you rev it. It's just more noticeable at idle.

A ticking valvetrain is "turbo related stuff"? Yes, it does have the "clunk", has had it since before the first time I took it in. Obviously it's not loud enough for them to fix it yet....I guess it needs to sound like bowling balls rolling around in the trunk before they'll fix it, right...

Took my car to the dealer today to have a whole list of things fixed. Here's what they told me: Pulls to left...sorry, that's normal for this car. Rear swaybar bushings shot...sorry, they look normal to us. Loud valvetrain ticking noise....that's normal for this car. Loose body...

Girth, sounds like we have the same car. Mine runs great below 4k, but falls flat above that, especially if I give it more than 1/2 throttle. Every once in a while it will pull well up to redline, but most of the time I short shift it at 4k. I'm not really happy that I paid 20k for a car that...

You guys are going to drive yourselves nuts chasing down all of the squeaks and rattles. Having owned several other cars with stiff suspensions, I gave up a long time ago. That's what the big sereo is for!

No comment.

Is 91 octane enough for 10 psi?

The only reason I left mine on is I figured the holes are there. and I would have to plug them up, so I might as well save myself the trouble and leave it on. My car is still very rich with it on, so I'm not worried about it. Also, the best gas I can get here is 91 octane. I tried 91 and 89...

I left mine on when I got the flash and drove it that way for a few days. Took it off and drove it for a few days. Didn't notice any difference in mileage or power either way, so I put it back on and have driven 3000 miles since. No problem with detonation and I run 87 octane gas.

I've tried it post flash and can't tell any difference.

They seem to be going for less than $200, so the price is right. I'm a machinist, so fabricating the brackets and piping won't be a problem. I did a search for intercooler sizing, but didn't see anything on the spool or ion sizes. Then again, I didn't read every post, but I was hoping someone...

I'm thinking of doing a custom FMIC on my MSP, and saw these intercolers on ebay. Anyone know if they are a good size for our cars? They sell 2 different sizes. The smaller is 21x9x3 and the larger one is 24x12x3. Thanks for any info you can share...

Jezus, there are so many variables. Tires, clutch, shift speed, launch, etc. Instead of bitching, just go from a roll and find out who's car is faster. 3rd or 4th gear. Why is that so hard to understand?

Why don't you guys go from a roll in 3rd gear, 3000 to redline. Takes all the driver error out of the race.

My radio presets were unchanged when they flashed mine.