2013 - 2016 CX-5 KYB Complete Front Strut Replacement

The information below is presented for informational purposes, please refer to the service manual and do your own research as well prior to attempting the below steps.

A. OEM/Parts Required

• (x1) KYB SR4564 Complete Strut (Driver)
• (x1) KYB SR4563 Complete Strut (Passenger)
• (x4) 9YA0-21-604 Lower Strut Bolts: You can reuse the old ones depending on the condition but I opted to purchase new ones.
• (Optional) (x6) 9YB0-41-032 OEM Mazda Suspension Strut Mount Nuts: The KYB ones come with the nuts preinstalled and I reused my old ones since they were still in good condition.

B. Tools Required

1. (Highly Recommended) (1/2) Impact Wrench: Used to remove the (x2) 23 mm nut holding the strut into the knuckle. Each nut is about 164-180 ft. lb and would require an enormous amount of force to break it loose by hand unless you use a cheater bar or something else.
2. (Recommended) Angle Grinder: You may need this to cut off stabilizer links if you aren't able to remove it using the Allen key + wrench. Since I was going to replace the front stabilizer links + stabilizer link damper, I cut off the stabilizer links due to them being seized.
3. (3/8) Torque Wrench
4. (Highly Recommended) (1/2) Torque Wrench: You will definitely need the 1/2 torque wrench in order to fully tighten down the 21 mm nuts.
5. (3/8) 14 mm socket: Used to remove/install the (x3) top mounting nuts on the strut assembly + remove the sway bar end link nuts.
6. (Optional) Box End 14 mm wrench: Used to remove the stabilizer links from the strut/stabilizer bar.
7. (3/8) 14 mm flare nut wrench: Used to tighten/torque down the last strut assembly bolt that is underneath the windshield wiper cowl.
8. (3/8) 17 mm socket: Used to remove/install the (x1) top nut on the strut but since the struts are prebuilt from KYB, there is no need to touch this nut.
9. (1/2) 21 mm deep socket: Used to remove the (x2) bolts that hold the strut assembly into the knuckle. If you opt to use the 21 mm deep socket on the bolt side, you will need to dual-wield another breaker bar in order to stop the 23 mm nut from spinning on the opposite side and vice versa.
10. (1/2) 23 mm deep socket: Used to remove the (x2) nuts that hold the strut assembly into knuckle.
11. Needle nose pliers: Used to remove the ABS plastic rivet from the strut + the brake clip held onto the strut assembly.

C. Torque Specifications



D. Tips

• If you live in an area that's full of rust, please do not remove the ABS bolt holding the sensor into place as you would most likely snap the bolt in half if you are not careful. Try your best to maneuver the front strut out of the way with the ABS bolt installed. Trust me, it is doable and you do not want to have to get it extracted as it'll cost anywhere between $150 - 500 depending on the mechanic.
• Ensure that you are holding onto the base of the strut prior to fully loosening the last mounting nut on top of the strut as the weight will force it to fully drop onto the steering knuckle. Get a friend to help you if you need to.
• When installing the struts, install the (x2) 21 mm bolts into the steering knuckle first with the nuts hand tightened. Afterwards feed the (x3) studs through the top of the mounting area and have a few nuts ready to hand tighten so the strut assembly does not drop down. The steering knuckle is much heavier than the strut assembly so it is very difficult to go from bottom to top with the installation.
• The strut bolt that is underneath the windshield wiper plastic assembly is a very tight fit; you may need to push up against the plastic cowl in order to get more room to tighten it but I would definitely recommend using a (3/8) 14 mm flare nut wrench to torque the nuts.
• Removing the (x2) 23 mm nuts on the strut assembly is easier than the (x2) 21 mm bolts because you do not have to hold onto the bolt side with a breaker bar/ratchet and worry about it spinning, especially if you are using a torque wrench.
• When torqueing down the (x2) 23 mm nuts, there is a good possibility you may need to dual-wield another breaker bar with a 21 mm socket on the opposite end to hold down the (x2) 21 mm bolts so they don't spin when they are being torqued down.
• If you plan on using an angle grinder, I would recommend getting a non-battery powered one as the battery life drains too quickly when cutting through the stabilizer links. There isn't much room to work with in the wheel well area as well so get an appropriate sized angle grinder and at least 2-4 cutting discs.

E. Observations

• The yellow foam inside of the OEM Mazda strut assembly appeared to be broken and that may be the reason why the car feels like it bottoms out each time I go over certain bumps/imperfections on the road.
• The KYB struts seem a bit noisier than the OEM Mazda struts but for the price I paid for it, I don't think I can complain as I would probably need to spend $500-700 to purchase all of the individual components that make up the strut, not including the strut compressor which is an extra $50 - 800 depending on which model I wanted to get.

F. Pictures