10" Shallow Mount Subs -

You are planning to make it removable, right? There is the access for the tail light bulbs.
 
What is the minimum cubic feet requirement, for these speakers? Maybe, you should make the box in that whole cavity, all the way to the back of the seats.
If I remember well, somebody already installed a subwoofer in that spot.
I went with the shallow JLs, because of the small area needed to run them. That was, one of the most important requirement for me and the brand of course too.
 
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What is the minimum cubic feet requirement, for these speakers? Maybe, you should make the box in that whole cavity, all the way to the back of the seats.
If I remember well, somebody already installed a subwoofer in that spot.
I went with the shallow JLs, because of the small area needed to run them. That was, one of the most important requirement for me and the brand of course too.

Yes that was an 8" speaker which was in a wedged box. I think the 10" will need some Cubic space to work effectively but should be a good project. Are you going to build a fiberglass box for it? I'm wondering though if 2x10" is too much? Be sure to take lots of pics for us will ya?
 
" I think the 10" will need some Cubic space to work effectively but should be a good project. Are you going to build a fiberglass box for it? I'm wondering though if 2x10" is too much? Be sure to take lots of pics for us will ya? "

I will build something tasty , yes figlass, i wanted 2 x 12" but no chance it woudl have fittted.

I have some prior experince doing figlass etc
 
Yes that was an 8" speaker which was in a wedged box. I think the 10" will need some Cubic space to work effectively but should be a good project. Are you going to build a fiberglass box for it? I'm wondering though if 2x10" is too much? Be sure to take lots of pics for us will ya?

2- 10s could be too much. I have one 12, and it can over power the rest of the system, but it can be controlled with a remote bass control knob
urytazyg.jpg

But, subs are like horsepower, it's better to have more than less.
 
Looks really good mate! (drinks) I put together quite a bunch installs myself. Many floors and false floors like yours, band pass boxes, fiberglass amp racks with motorized actuators, but never took pictures of them and I regret that(cameras/phones weren't accessible like they are today). I'm starting to take pics of everything I do these days, so hopefully I'll start a new album. But, I like seeing these kind of builds and custom work. It's my porn! (boobs) (hump) (boobs2)
 
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I won't be making a fiberglass enclosure.
I will use the spare wheel itself as the enclosure. Holes are already sealed with a big rubber seal and I have machined a big(6") "washer" which is mounted over the rubber and bolted to the car using a regular head bolt. Gives me more room for the speaker magnet. If I remember well there is around 24-25L in there. I have filled it up with water a couple of months ago.
I will place a MDF board, over the spare wheel and install the sub in it. The only two things I haven't figure out yet, is how to bolt down the MFD against the spare tire, to seal properly and how it will fit under the factory floor.
I may drill and tap, like four holes into the spare and use threaded rods.
This would be my first sub/amp install. Polk Audio PA660/PA880 amps repaired by me. Picked them up from the bay for $40 each. With the JL 10TW3 shallow sub, I need a minimum of 14.16 L(0.5 cu/ft) space.
http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92184
Right now, I have two pairs of Infinity components, plus the Polk Audios in the dash and I have a very good bass, so two 10" it would be to much in my opinion.
 
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2- 10s could be too much. I have one 12, and it can over power the rest of the system, but it can be controlled with a remote bass control knob
But, subs are like horsepower, it's better to have more than less.

Nice to see somebody else fit remote pot in similar place I did a while back. Very easy to adjust while driving.

I agree with that. My 12" driver is very loud in hindsight probably a single 10" would be enough bar the slightly higher Fs value.
 
Hi tibimakai, Sounds good

Please start your own build thread so we can follow your progress.


I won't be making a fiberglass enclosure.
I will use the spare wheel itself as the enclosure. Holes are already sealed with a big rubber seal and I have machined a big(6") "washer" which is mounted over the rubber and bolted to the car using a regular head bolt. Gives me more room for the speaker magnet. If I remember well there is around 24-25L in there. I have filled it up with water a couple of months ago.
I will place a MDF board, over the spare wheel and install the sub in it. The only two things I haven't figure out yet, is how to bolt down the MFD against the spare tire, to seal properly and how it will fit under the factory floor.
I may drill and tap, like four holes into the spare and use threaded rods.
This would be my first sub/amp install. Polk Audio PA660/PA880 amps repaired by me. Picked them up from the bay for $40 each. With the JL 10TW3 shallow sub, I need a minimum of 14.16 L(0.5 cu/ft) space.
http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92184
Right now, I have two pairs of Infinity components, plus the Polk Audios in the dash and I have a very good bass, so two 10" it would be to much in my opinion.
 
I have never put mine here.
It's a 10" JL Audio 10TW3D4. Powered by a Polk Audio PA880.
Final product:
attachment.php

6" Rubber gasket and a 6" aluminum plate, bolted down.
attachment.php

Almost finished product. I have trimmed, those small MDF pieces a bit better:
attachment.php

The floor, is raised 2". I also have the factory grill, but that is to tall. I had to raise it, because the excursion of the speaker, could have touched the car's floor cover.
It's not a nice install, but is super cheap($13 MDF from Home Depot) and it works.
 

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Another picture, during install.
Measuring the signal level, at maximum volume of the Kenwood. Nice clean sine wave:
attachment.php
 

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