Engine Rebuild or Engine Swap?

L0w_N_sl0w

Member
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Mazda,Protege5
My 03 protege5 is burning (not leaking) aprox. 1qt of oil per 300-500 miles. I have done a compression test and it was 190 across the board. My car enjested a Vic bolt from the intake manifold twice wich I believe has contributed to oil consumption. I have tried changing the pcv valve and I did a piston soak but no changes in oil consumption sense. When I removed the spark plugs I took a flashlight and looked down the cylinders, ontop of piston 4 I saw oil. My car has sense started burning oil on startup only when it's cold out, I know this is a sign of bad valve stems or seals but I fear it's one of many issues. Do I replace the valve stem and seals and prey it fixes it or replace/rebuild the entire engine? If someone has been threw this situation your input would be much appreciated!

Thanks guys
 
My biggest fear is that I go with a rebuild and something is wrong with my block like a crack. Or I get another motor and it also burns oil. A rebuild at least ill know the motor is solid but comes with a higher price tag.
 
Junkyard motors are always a gamble. A rebuild is likely the best bet and may even be cheaper if your current engine can be rebuilt.
 
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I would be less worried about cracks and more worried about scouring on the cylinder walls if a screw was sucked in. Which would also lead me to believe that with the oil consumption that's a possibility since it would allow blow by on the piston rings if the scouring is bad enough. Worst case scenario there though
 
Thanks for your opinions guys! How much dose an average rebuild cost? I saw some 60k fs-de motors for sale online with a 3year 70,000 mile warranty for $1300 shipped. I would really like to put a fs-det motor in but it's another $1000.
 
FS-ZE may require at least 91 octane, and you would have to get the ECU as well. I'm surprised there are MSP engines even listed anywhere, certainly not worth an extra $1000 just for the turbo setup.
 
I always opt for a rebuild, unless you don't have the time, tools or will to do it. Look at RockAuto, its a few hundred for a rebuild kit, much better than over a thousand on another engine I would say.
 
Have you found a solution yet? I'm using lots of oil,too. No smoke.

You might be leaking it out then, look at your crank pulley, and see if you see oil leaking there, then check where you transmission and engine meet, I think the transmission has little protrusions next to the support member where oil like to drip from. These locations are where you two mail seals are at.
 
I have roughly $2200 into my rebuild. I decided to replace common maintenance parts also when i had the motor out. I also upgraded my intake manifold to a vic free system (cause of oil consumption) . My car no longer burns oil, but my new cork oil gasket leaks. We completely rebuilt the motor bottom and top end.
 
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I have roughly $2200 into my rebuild. I decided to replace common maintenance parts also when i had the motor out. I also upgraded my intake manifold to a vic free system (cause of oil consumption) . My car no longer burns oil, but my new cork oil gasket leaks. We completely rebuilt the motor bottom and top end.

Lol Vic's will not cause it to burn oil. All it does is open a different set of runners in the intake manifold at 5200 rpms. The 626 is actually a down grade for na cars due to not having the Vic's system, it only benefits the fi guys and yes that theory had been dyno tested and proven
 
I didn't go with a single runner intake manifold system for performance. I went with a single runner intake so I wouldn't have to rebuild my motor for a second time. I have physical proof of a failed VIC system. Any time you have a foreign object fall into your cylinder its going to cause damage. Picture number two was exaggerated to show what I found when removing the intake manifold.

Link for the difference between VIC & VTCS
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123686735-ViCS-vs-VTCS-with-PICS!
 

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