Same as the 3. You can have up to eight keys and three remotes. In order to program new keys yourself you need two working keys, in order to program remotes you need one key. Since the car only has one key the dealer will need to plug into the computer, clear the existing codes, and program back in the new ones. The cost varies by dealer, but most pay somewhere around $50-75 for the programming as it apparently takes 45 minutes to do. As for the key you can get a regular transponder key from the dealer for $20-30, or an aftermarket transponder key for about $9. You don't have to get a flip key/remote. If you do get additional keys then I recommend getting two more so you have a total of three. That way should you lose one of the three keys you won't have to go back to the dealer to program in more, you can just replace the key and do it yourself. And if you're just getting more keys so that you have spares then I'd just go with the standard keys as they're way cheaper.
Convince me to buy a Mazda5
- Thread starter jivenene
- Start date
Same as the 3. You can have up to eight keys and three remotes. In order to program new keys yourself you need two working keys, in order to program remotes you need one key. Since the car only has one key the dealer will need to plug into the computer, clear the existing codes, and program back in the new ones. The cost varies by dealer, but most pay somewhere around $50-75 for the programming as it apparently takes 45 minutes to do. As for the key you can get a regular transponder key from the dealer for $20-30, or an aftermarket transponder key for about $9. You don't have to get a flip key/remote. If you do get additional keys then I recommend getting two more so you have a total of three. That way should you lose one of the three keys you won't have to go back to the dealer to program in more, you can just replace the key and do it yourself. And if you're just getting more keys so that you have spares then I'd just go with the standard keys as they're way cheaper.
MikesMazda5
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Sport, 1990 Ford Mustang GT, 2006 HD VRSCR
I bought a brand new 2006 Mazda 5 Sport back in December 2005. Since then, it has accumulated right at 60,000 miles with ZERO issues. I can't speak as to the premature tire wear due to my wifes poor driving habits, but I can say that once you switch out the stock Toyo's you won't have any issues at all. I had a set of Goodyear Eagle GT/HR's on mine for about 35,000 miles and they still had well over 1/2 tread left and were wearing very evenly. The only reason I changed them was switching to 18's.. I can without a doubt say that I would recommend a 5 to anyone looking for the best driving, most versatile "microvan" on the market (drive2)
Thanks for the tips about the ignition keys. My wife and i keep going back and forth with the Mazda5 vs minivan, and it is true, for the price, the 5 is a good deal. After reading a few threads, it seems that the rear tire wear is a product of excessive toe-in in the OEM spec, which is am easy fix, you just gotta know what to tell the alignment guy. If that fails, there are the SPC camber arms, which should theoretically fix the problem. Once I understand the problem i can deal with it, it just seemed like a mystery tire eating monster until i spent hours reading up on it.
The 5 that i am considering buying from the credit union unfortunately has no maintenance records, but supposedly was driven by a women driving children around, so should not be beaten on too much. It is a 08 Touring, with 53k mi on it, and i may be able to score it for $9k USD. That price, in combination with the good gas mileage, would make it worth putting up with possible increased tire wear or other maintenance issues.
I already know it has a shaking at 55-60mph... how do i get rid of that? Or should i say, how do i live with that?
So, looks like you guys convinced me!
Thanks for all the opinions and first hand experience.
Jive
The 5 that i am considering buying from the credit union unfortunately has no maintenance records, but supposedly was driven by a women driving children around, so should not be beaten on too much. It is a 08 Touring, with 53k mi on it, and i may be able to score it for $9k USD. That price, in combination with the good gas mileage, would make it worth putting up with possible increased tire wear or other maintenance issues.
I already know it has a shaking at 55-60mph... how do i get rid of that? Or should i say, how do i live with that?
So, looks like you guys convinced me!
Thanks for all the opinions and first hand experience.
Jive
was98strat
Member
53,000 over 3 years is nothing. that's only 48 miles a day. you can do that EASILY just driving around town getting things done!! add in commuting and that number goes up fast.
MikesMazda5
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Sport, 1990 Ford Mustang GT, 2006 HD VRSCR
As far as the shaking goes, just take it to get the tires balanced and that should cure that problem.
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- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
I guess it needs to be mentioned again, the '08+ do not have the tire wear issue that the '06 had. (That wasn't guaranteed either according to MikesMazda5.) There's no reason for the camber kit unless you plan on dropping it. Just buy the car already and balance the tires! 
Take it to a mechanic to put it on a lift if you want a thorough inspection as well.
Take it to a mechanic to put it on a lift if you want a thorough inspection as well.
Maybe because it's 4:30am, but i don't understand what "Road Force Balance" is. I will definitely balance them.
On a side not, i finally got the 2006 i just bought up on jack stands and was able to crawl around. I saw the toe adjustment on the rear, it was set to one gradation toe in, but don't know what the actual driving value is. Probably excessive toe judging by the amount of inner tire wear.
Also spun the rear wheels, and both seem to excessive lateral run out (as measured from my well trained eye), and one seemed to have a flat spot on the rim, causing the tire to have an apparent flat spot, but it is due to the rim deformation. I think i read that these wheels are very week and tent not to maintain their desired shape. I do get alot of wub-wub at 60mph. All the ball joints, sway arm bushings and A-arm bushings seemed good, but i could not pry at them with a crowbar to see. Weird thing is that it still feels clunky and shaky when going over any bumps at any speed.
But, also looking under the hood, it does seem to be a very well built car. There are no fluid leaks, and the engine compartment is dressed nicely (almost to many plastic covers, shields, and brackets). The only strange things i saw were the air ducting straight to the battery terminals (can you say corrosion near the ocean!), and the cartridge style oil filter (only ever seen on my motorcycles). So now i gotta sell this 2006 so i can afford my 2008. Good luck to me.
Jive
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Check to see if you have a local shop that uses a Hunter 9700 machine for balancing. The machine 'simulates' force/pressure on the tire as it balances and not just free spinning.
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/technical/5098t/5098t.cfm
The company has a database machine location so you can look it up. You can also buy a new tires and rims combo that comes mounted.
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
Highway vibration (aka 'shimmy' in the Miata world) was also quite common on older Miatas. I had it on my Miata and bought new tires to a shop that had the Hunter 9700 machine -problem solved.
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Excellent tip! That is the kind of inside knowledge that i come to these sites for. thanks a million!
Jive
I've never had problem with free wheel balancing, I'm not sure who in Canada does Road Force balancing.
EDIT:
Hey the link above has Canadian and German locations as well!
EDIT:
Hey the link above has Canadian and German locations as well!
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MikesMazda5
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Sport, 1990 Ford Mustang GT, 2006 HD VRSCR
This is the balancer I use at work.
I believe Mazda does the ducting to the battery in order to keep the battery from overheating.
As to the cartridge filter you can actually do a conversion to the spin on filter used on the 2.0 Mz3. Just four bolts which hold the housing onto the oil pan and the oil sensor. Put the gasket on, screw it back in and no more cartridge filters.
was98strat
Member
The ducting is to help remove the hydrogen gases that all lead-acid batteries produce during heavy charging. given how tight the rest of the car is with under car cover plates, etc. it's prob just there to ensure that any charging gases are disipated !
OK, got the 2008 Mazda5 with 53,500mi on it, so far it drives 100% better than the 2006 i bought. As i was checking it out, i noticed a sticker on the DS door. It is titled "PM" and also says TSB/CAMPAIGN on it. Anyone know what this is all about? The VIN of this vehicle falls in the range of the PS recall, but i don't know is the work was done.
Jive
Jive
Guessing PM means "preventative maintenance" since the dates and removed tabs correspond to 7,000 and 14,000 miles, recommended oil change intervals. No one marked down a date or TSB# so I would asume that this particular location did not replace the PS pump.
Notice the 28, 35 & 42 are not removed. You may want to schedule a tuneup, as it looks like the PO started getting in over his/her head and stopped maintaining the vehicle. Plugs, filters, fluids. I wouldn't worry about anything else unless you notice something odd.
Notice the 28, 35 & 42 are not removed. You may want to schedule a tuneup, as it looks like the PO started getting in over his/her head and stopped maintaining the vehicle. Plugs, filters, fluids. I wouldn't worry about anything else unless you notice something odd.
