Engine Gets Sluggish @ 3000 rpm's

Why are there 2 vac lines running to that by pass valve?

I do not know alot about engine componets.... so not sure where you are talking about. If you can show me on one of my pics I would gladly follow the lines and let you know where they go.

On that note, is there a post anywhere that shows what parts are what in the engine? I REALLY want to learn more about working on cars and whats, what. I would love to move out of just standard maintenance stuff and move into a real understanding of the car, and how stuff works.
 
mspbay.webp


Black= hot hardpipe
Yellow= bov blockoff plate (for hks ssqv?) on cold hardpipe
Green= by pass valve
Pink= my question on the two vac lines? theres only 1 vac nipple on the stock by pass valve.
Blue= intake temp sensor. (IAT)
Red= mass air flow sensor (maf)
 
good question, OP, check those two lines going towards the BPV. If one is hooked up to the bpv, where is the other one going?
 
Here is where everything goes!!! Hope it helps. The 3rd Photo, the "EndsHere" one is where the split runs to. I do not know what it is, was just guessing randomly since its down near the turbo. Can also get a decent look at it in the 4th photo. Also not sure why there is the random 3rd tube coming off at the "T" that just ends into a screw. Where is ends in the 2nd picture, near the top of the engine, is that the vacuum?

WhereItGoes.webp
0210111241a.webp
EndsHereWG.webp
0210111242.webp
0210111242b.webp
 
Last edited:
Thats the line i was talking about with the bolt in it. You should replace that line with one long enough so you can get rid of that tee, it wont solve your problem but you should do it anyways. And the vaccum source your talking about in the 2nd picture is on the top of the intake manifold you can see it in the upper left of that picture.
 
Gotcha. Alright will look into a replacement line. Any guesses on where that used to go? To a BOV? or would you run the line to that closer to the Vacuum? Also what is it that the line terminates to on the lower part of the engine near the turbo?
 
It went to a boost controller. And you can get that vaccum line whatever length you want for like a dollar a foot. just take off that little line with the bolt in it and bring it in so they know what size you need. and get like 4 feet or whatever its gonna take.
 
has anyone tried the joep fuel pressure reduction kit??? i bought one but have heard you should use them on cars with aftermarket parts on them not sure what that would entitle. any good reviews with this product? and is an air fuel controller a good idea or should someone go the route of an emanage system instead? i has a massive hesitation problem as well and would like to knwo the best solution for this..
 
IT sounds like you have a boost leak and you are in dire need of a new set of plugs! My car did the exact same thing! Let me see if I can find my old dyno plot to show you.

Edit: Found it! Now note that the boost comes on way later on my car due to a internal wasteage issue. I never saw full boost tell damn near 4.5-5k rpms on stock boost. You can see exactly when the car goes into boost. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE STOCK ECU FLASH... now with that said the stock ecu reflash sucks balls. When I got stuck in that power dip I always had to change gear to get the car to move. If I stayed in it the car wouldn't jump tell it was out of that dip. The turbo and BOV was just added noise it seemed literally. The car was putting down less then 100whp in that power dig with 7lbs of boost! lol


http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/StelathWyvern/msp_dyno.jpg
 
Last edited:
i'm no expert, but i'll lend you a somewhat local hand if you want.
 
Last edited:
IT sounds like you have a boost leak and you are in dire need of a new set of plugs!

-I recently had the spark plugs and wiring replaced, so should be good there. Are there common leak spots I could check out?

i'm no expert, but i'll lend you a somewhat local hand if you want.

-Thanks for the offer, may take you up on that after I do some maint on the car next weekend. I am going to try to:
-Change Oil
-Clean the EGR to fix a rough idle issue
-radiator flush to clean coolant system.
-change out the belts to eliminate a squeek i am getting when its cold

-After I get these things out of the way I am going to try to really dig into figuring out whats going on and getting my car in great shape. I really like this car and want to keep it, and continue modding on it for awhile.
 
Last edited:
Find a local tuner show and see if they can smoke test it or you can test it yourself with a DIY boost least tester. I had at one time and point has a boost leak at every coupler(all had a cut in them soem how), the fuel injectors, and now I have one at the throttle body shaft.
 
I recently installed a check valve exactly like the joep kit and changed my ZFR6F11s out to ZFR6FIX-11 iridiums and my car has had the least hesitation its ever had since i first got it. It had really bad hesitation, too.
 
^ I put in ARP studs for the manifold and new studs on the turbo. I'm still getting the hesitation through 3-4k everytime, UNLESS I'm WOT.

It's kind of pissing me off... but I'm hoping when I tune it here in the next couple weeks it'll fix. Here's to hoping.
 
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back