Highest HP 5?

[twintrbo]

it's only 'awful' on the straights if you are considering 0-60 only.

and the utility is great too, because when you've got a home, you WILL be making home depot runs.

The only time I roll my eyes is when it upshifts to second and I need a little more power to get around someone or I want to make the next light, etc... Its just freakin dead in second gear at about 3000 RPM and you would have to floor it to get it back down to first but then its going to toss everyone around and I just dont drive that way. Unfortunately this happens to me a lot in the city. Perfect example: Guy in front at the light throws the signal on(or not) for a left turn, I back off to go around and the car upshifts early, now I need to get up to speed and unless I floor it to downshift.............. nothing happens........ I could only imagine with 6 people on board and the A/C on (braindead

Hear hear on the utility, I love that part of it! I've already hauled a couch, a set of old maxima rims, a bbq grill in the box, my 4 person in-law family to the airport and back and numerous costco runs. I just smile when people ask, "you sure it will fit?"

 

[Mazda5wannabe]

Twintrbo, your problem is you're running an automatic. With my MT, the only time I'm in the wrong gear is when I screw up!

You're right about the consistency of bracket racing, though, but we thought if you're going to go drag racing, you may as well be quick about it. (drive2)

To me the 5 is more about the utility, the ability to haul stuff easily. Whatever zoom-zoom I get is just icing on the cake. However, the 0-60 is pretty good for it's class. I've annoyed the hell out of many people by beating them out of the "hole" at the light and then keeping up until the next signal. The Mustang drivers end up getting PO'd and burning up some tire and lots of gas to shut me down. LOL!

 

[d-machine]

i say go for the f2 turbo kit... its around $2-$3k i think.. or the supercharger kit which i believe is from f2 as well

 

[SGT_OKINAWA]

Well...actually Sarge, you kinda do.(confused)

Sorry, was in a real bad mood at the time. (bike)

I did? who did I treat like crap?

Again, sorry, hope you get low 10's with your 5, please post pics when ya do.

Garranteed to disappoint.

So agree, and much of that is .... it's a wagon, not a sports car. (headshake

i say go for the f2 turbo kit... its around $2-$3k i think.. or the supercharger kit which i believe is from f2 as well

Agree, anything is posible, but remember, don't void that warranty. (naughty)

Good luck, peace! (rei)

 

[d-machine]

oh yeah i forgot about that stipulation...

 

[KBrian]

To take a page out of my pal, Sarge's book,

Any mods to the 'stang? My first blast in a fast car was an 88 LX notch with some bolt on's!

Had my 88 LX 5.0 hatch since new, and only a few mods: Nothing stock about exhaust- head ports ground out, long-tube headers, custom H-pipe, glasspacks and turn-downs; three-angle valve job, underdrive pullies, no A/C or air pump, no intake silencer, hurst competition-plus shifter, 3.55 gears, extra clutch-pack in the traction-loc, 205/65-15's on the front, 26x8 goodyear slicks on the rear, stock 10 hole rims.

Everything else stock. 75000 miles/122000 km.

1.79 60 ft, 5.35 330 ft, 8.22 660 ft, 12.95 1330 ft, 108.89 mph all time best.

Twintrbo, your problem is you're running an automatic!

What he said

i say go for the f2 turbo kit... its around $2-$3k i think.. or the supercharger kit which i believe is from f2 as well

Superchargers rule the streets.

don't void that warranty. (naughty)

What's a few grand for boosted fun? Warranties are for Chryslers(boom07)

 

[twintrbo]

Sarge......sigh..... I'm kinda speechless to you right now. You offered to help me with my OEM camera idea and I am grateful for that, but I really dont get what you are so mad about. I'm nice to everyone and all I want to do is get a little more power out of the engine to improve driveability. You are on this ridiculous tangent that makes it seem like I want to build a race car, I'm surprised you are not flaming the guys who built the speed5 for being so stupid to do so. What I would like to do is completely possible it just requires I carefully choose my mods to get where I want to go. If you dont have anything positive to add, please just dont add.

Kbrian, nice run on the mustang! Good solid numbers for those mods. The last time I had my 3000 GT VR-4 to the track it ran a 12.76@106.08 MPH with a 1.73 60'. That was in basically stock form, just how I drive it on the street, tools, stereo, everything All it had was a cat back exhaust, air filter and boost controller. Talk about heavy, it was 3742 lbs. without me! All that tech weighs a lot. Now with the bigger turbos, fuel system and some other supporting mods it should be in the high 11's at 115+ MPH. Family life got in the way of finishing it up but it should be ready for the fall when the weather gets cooler. I dynoed almost 390 to the wheels but we had some technical problems enabling a perfect tune, 425 is more where it should be on pump gas.

I personally love turbos and I would choose it over a blower any day for this application. For one, it would leave the highway MPG alone as long as I drove it reasonably and since the gearing off the line is great, I would not worry about boost lag. The blower will always be running and I dont feel it would need to 90% of the time.

 

[Silentnoise713]

I personally love turbos and I would choose it over a blower any day for this application. For one, it would leave the highway MPG alone as long as I drove it reasonably and since the gearing off the line is great, I would not worry about boost lag. The blower will always be running and I dont feel it would need to 90% of the time.

This is the number one reason why I dislike superchargers b/c of its impact in fuel efficiency. I would rather not have boost all the time on a daily commute b/c I can short shift to avoid going into boost. I also much prefer the ptss (not too loud) over whine (unless the new blowers are silent). HOWEVER, I would never consider turboing an auto b/c you don't get to take advantage of the power band and the sudden boost kick in will slowly but surely destroy the auto tranny (vs linear build up from a blower is less stressful). If you must go FI, supercharger would be the way to go (or buy a manual).

I've never heard of F2 but looked around their website and see that they sell a do-it-yourself kit for ~$1500 (tubing, piping, manifold, intercooler, adapters for various turbos, and pretty much all hardware need to complete a build. Just supply your own turbo (cheap if you source from other cars) and engine management). Actually, not sure how different the Mz3 and Mz5 are so some mods may be necessary.
https://www.f2usa.com/products/F2-Stage-2-Mazda-3(do-it-yourself-kit).html

Delete intercooler associated piping for ~1200.
https://www.f2usa.com/products/F2-Stage-1-Mazda-3(do-it-yourself-kit).html


Btw, love the VR4 - it was the GT-R of the 90s and way ahead in terms of tech overload and power. The Sypder's fold away hard top was way ahead of its time too.

 

[twintrbo]

I can short shift to avoid going into boost. I also much prefer the ptss (not too loud) over whine (unless the new blowers are silent). HOWEVER, I would never consider turboing an auto b/c you don't get to take advantage of the power band and the sudden boost kick in will slowly but surely destroy the auto tranny (vs linear build up from a blower is less stressful).
Btw, love the VR4 - it was the GT-R of the 90s and way ahead in terms of tech overload and power. The Sypder's fold away hard top was way ahead of its time too.

You can take a turbo to redline without running boost, its a load dependent thing, if you dont get into it hard, it will not close the wastegate to build actual boost. Engine vacuum holds them open allowing the exhaust to bypass the turbine wheel.

Turbo and auto are a match made in heaven! Once you have boost, it will never fall off until you let off the gas, how much HP the tranny can take is another matter though...........In 1981 Datsun put a turbo on the 280 ZX but it only came as an auto because they could not figure out how to keep boost up during shifts. Not all turbos give you a real kick in the pants when they go anyway. A small turbo running 5 or 6 psi will come on boost really fast and smooth, its when they get really big to make big power you get bad lag. Once there is enough exhaust to spool it up though, hang on!!!!

FWIW I love the blower whine, a friend of mine had a modified Ford Lightning and that SOB used to scream up my block, it gave me chills. F'ing love that thing, so sinister. I equally love the turbo hiss and the whoosh of the blow off valve too. I usually instigate races by spooling the VR-4 and letting the blow-off rip into an open window, then....its ON! lol

Thanks for the props on the VR-4, I used to salivate about that car when it came out and once I had a chance to get one, it was a dream come true. I bought it in 1996 and have loved it every day since, its part of the family now It really was like the newest GT-R, only 17 years before it. The GT-R of that era was more of a muscle car with a high tech drivetrain, I still lust after an R-32 skyline, damn US regs...... The Spyder was pretty amazing but $30K for a folding hardtop was a big pill to swallow which is why it only lasted one year.

 

[twintrbo]

i say go for the f2 turbo kit... its around $2-$3k i think.. or the supercharger kit which i believe is from f2 as well

Makes you think whats possible if this is the same price:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-3L...zda|Model:CX-7&hash=item3caf261e7e#vi-content

I would love to throw that in there! Main problem would be the wiring but once that was sorted out, match made in heaven! The worlds first CX-5! Plus this engine is tuned more for passenger duty than all out speed like the MS3 unit and it would be super nice for everyday. If only I had the time and money....

 

[d-machine]

only problem is the DISI greatly limits power ability.. and the motors are fragile (even when built) compared to a built MZR motor.. so if anything, forged internals (all the goods) and a turbo kit, then swap the trans for the mazdaspeed 6 speed trans and your good to go for 300+ hp right there lol

 

[twintrbo]

Well I would not modify the motor in any way, thats plenty of power just the way it is and factory reliability. Now if I could put in a Speed6 tranny (will that fit?) Then I just need to adapt the rest of the AWD and I have the vehicle of my dreams!

I wonder though, would the CX-7 tranny work or is it huge? I've been kicking around buying a rebuildable car and parting out everything I dont need.

 

[d-machine]

i dont think the speed 6 tranny will work in a 5 or 3... i read somewhere taht a cx9 awd system would be more likely to work

 

[twintrbo]

I have a hard time believing that the CX-9 components would fit. The scale of the vehicle is totally different and I would think everything would be just too big, not to mention thats all stuff for a V-6 not an I-4. Probably better off trying to source a JDM awd system from the Premacy.

 

[d-machine]

i didnt think it was accurate either lol i also heard something about volvo parts working but again who knows lol

 

[Kidnkorner]

but remember, don't void that warranty. (naughty)

In the states the part(s) must cause or contribute to the cause for which the warranty claim was sought and only then can the claim be denied if it did. A dealer cannot void a warranty only the manufacturer can. Additionally the burden of proof is on the dealer and it would be unethical and illegal for them to arbitrarily deny a claim. The only circumstances a cars warranty can be voided ethically and legally is if the vehicle has been involved in competition, neglected or abused.

My last point is that I am defending a bonafide legitimate claim, not someone who put a bunch of parts on their vehicle, ran it into the ground and then expect the dealer/manufacturer to cover a claim.

 

[twintrbo]

In the states the part(s) must cause or contribute to the cause for which the warranty claim was sought and only then can the claim be denied if it did. A dealer cannot void a warranty only the manufacturer can. Additionally the burden of proof is on the dealer and it would be unethical and illegal for them to arbitrarily deny a claim. The only circumstances a cars warranty can be voided ethically and legally is if the vehicle has been involved in competition, neglected or abused.

My last point is that I am defending a bonafide legitimate claim, not someone who put a bunch of parts on their vehicle, ran it into the ground and then expect the dealer/manufacturer to cover a claim.

I had the dealer void the warranty, without my knowledge, on my 3000GT. I think it was because of a cat back exhaust and a boost controller mounted in the cockpit that was not installed on the engine, it was just the head unit part. One night the exhaust wheel severed off the turbo shaft and it was blowing smoke horribly. The dealer took it in and eventually blamed the failure on mods so they would not honor the warranty.

I took the car from that dealer and brought it to another one which agreed to fix it only to find the warranty was no longer valid. The turbo was genuinely a defect since the car did another 80K miles on the other stock turbo(twin turbos) without incident. I might have had it boosted past stock levels but it was more than up to it. Bottom line is dealers will do whatever they want. Its really up to the service manager and how much he gets greased to look the other way.

 

[Kidnkorner]

Concerning legitimate claims in the Unites States........

The Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, is your weapon to fight the dealerships and manufacturers.

On your situation, that dealer reported it's findings to the zone rep who put a warranty block on the vehicle, most likely on that specific claim or drive train. I am fairly certain that if you had a suspension issue they would have taken car of it, or if your dash board cracked down the middle they would have replaced it.

The dealer, by law, has to PROVE that the part(s) caused or contributed to the cause for which the claim was sought. It is illegal to arbitrarily deny a warranty claim simply because aftermarket parts are present, but it happens everyday.

You are right, dealerships will do whatever they want, so long as consumers lay down and let their consumer rights get trampled on.

 

[AIMWO4]

I actually had mine on a Dyno back a while ago. I don't have any real mods other than the TB ground wire and SRI/CAI. At 6000+ feet above sea level, our numbers can be quite disappointing.

I sure will! One thing I learned about modding though, set your goals and make a plan, then stick to it! Once you get off track, its going to get ugly! I have a few friends who went wacky with their cars. One had over 100K into a mustang, the other probably close to that in a 3000 GT VR-4. Both cars came out amazing but I would rather have a showroom stock viper instead of either.

I will have to take the 5 to the strip and see what stock does before I do anything to it. If the opportunity comes to Dyno, I will do that too.

 

[twintrbo]

Wow thats sadder than I thought! And thats with probably the most effective mod you can easily do! Given what the altitude does to me, I can understand though. If anything I would try to get all the mods done the same day so I could see the difference on the dyno. The change will be fairly small so it would need to be back to back. I'd be happy if it had as much power as my bike lol