Control arm bushing options?

brandini

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07 M3s Hatch
If anyone can find poly bushings for the front end of the 6 I'll buy them ice cream.

And they can't be super-pro, paying $800 for bushings is stupid. I've asked Energy Suspension and they don't want to create new products now. I've asked Prothane but haven't heard back. And I've just today sent an email to Powerflex to see if they would be willing to make some.

I just want this damn car to turn!(sad1)
 
Forwarded my previous message to Powerflex UK since I believe they call the shots anyway. Waiting game has begun.

No response from Prothane.
 
If anyone can find poly bushings for the front end of the 6 I'll buy them ice cream......I just want this damn car to turn!

Well bushings certainly aren't the turning issue. Camber(too little), toe(too much "in"), rear swaybar(too small), and tires(too narrow) are the issue. You need SPC adjustable front balljoints to allow camber adjustments, the Whiteline 24mm rear bar, and a good alignment with settings(I'll give recommendations if needed) to take full advantage of some good tires. Even then, the 6 (yes, even the 4cyl 6i) is a FWD platform that will always tend to understeer. With these mods I've mentioned though, you will love the handling...
 
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Forzda, can you post some alignment specs for our cars? I'm interested to see what you think should be done with our cars.
 
Well I plan on keeping a full Racing Beat setup since they don't compromise suspension travel and drop just enough to push camber a tad negative in the front (drop .75f and .5r) and they run softer springs but with stuffer sways (28.5/27) to keep cornering flat but not sacrifice ride quality (as much).

Powerflex said no thanks. So I'll ask Whiteline next and see what they can do. Then Corksport.
 
Forzda, can you post some alignment specs for our cars? I'm interested to see what you think should be done with our cars.

Sure! Note that individual driving styles, tire selection, etc will result in slightly different settings for the BEST grip, but there are some generalities that I start with.

FYI, I run -2.0 camber and 0.0 toe up front with -1.5 camber and 2.0 mm (measured at wheel lip) total(1.0mm per side) toe-in on the rear for street use. Current mods listed in sig. Note the rear bar is 24mm with poly bushings. Note I set the Koni rears at -1/4 turn from full hard and fronts 1 turn from full soft (concrete racing surface)

I've autocrossed the car as-is with the B'stone street tires and this setup results in decent turn in and steady-state grip, transitioning to easily controlled 4-wheel drift oversteer as the power and speed comes up. You can rotate the car on corner entry with a fast entry, lift throttle/brake and set it quite nicely for power-on at the apex. Oh, and the DSC must be OFF!

If you're really interested in autocrossing this heavy car much and have competitive driving ability, you'll want to increase front camber to -3.0 and leave the rear settings as listed. With these settings and R-compund rubber (Khumo/Hoosier/Bridgestone, etc) in 225/45x18 on 18x8 wheels, the car will grip and handle very well, but will still be limited by the ultimate FWD weight distribution of the car.
 

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e-mailed whiteline and corksport (I hate corksport's site btw, i lost what i typed 3 times due to it being dumb)
 
Whiteline's response:
Mate the Mazda 6 is definitely on our 'to do' list but at present due to
other priorities we predict for this to happen around early next year.
If you wish feel free to touch base in the near future and we will
kindly update.

Small victory!
 
I know from installing my RSB, they're sway is only 1mm thicker than a stock MS6 bar, which I believe is 24mm (25 for the Whiteline).
 
True, but we're doing it for the control arms.

Front Racing Beat sway is 23.5mm and Rear RB sway is 28mm. I'm a fan of the soft spring large sway crowd, rather than the opposite.

Energy makes real nice greasable sway bushings- dead sexy.
 
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