wow, 1.9 60s, 14s and 95mph. thats terrible for such a great 60l.
what are your mods and where are you located?
i was runing 14.1 @ 100 with 2.3 and 2.4 60'...with a bov
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What is your downpipe set up? Full DP? Race or test pipe?
- Thread starter Marauder.45
- Start date
wow, 1.9 60s, 14s and 95mph. thats terrible for such a great 60l.
what are your mods and where are you located?
i was runing 14.1 @ 100 with 2.3 and 2.4 60'...with a bov
The drone was bad for me, but adding one reso (upstream) to those already there worked for me. Reso size, shape, and location has a lot to do with which frequencies it attenuates. That's what a straight through reso does. It does not reduce flow, it absorbs sound. I just got lucky with the one I picked. It was an educated guess based on how it was being used on high horsepower big cubic inch NA cars at another forum.
I wanted to stay 3 inch and stay up in the RP where I felt that there was where the drone was being produced. It worked. Can't say whether a different make or size of reso would do the same or better. This just worked for me. Drone gone, power unaffected.
Your 60's are fantastic. The very best I've gotten are 2.1's. 1.9's are a huge advantage. Yes, you are not building the power in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear that you should. Of course, track conditions, weather and altitude make a big difference. My best times were back in early spring and I am at sea level.
Something is not right. With your CAI you should be hitting 14 flat or high 13's under good conditions, depending again, on altitude. Maybe you have a boost leak somewhere.
Look at these two additional graphs on horsepower and rpm versus time on the same run. Note how the engine nanny holds power back severely in first gear and pretty bad in second gear.
I get a good whp of 265 when first shifting into third gear, when the clutch fully engages, but then the effect of aerodynamics pulls the power down. Aerodynamic drag is something you never see on a static dyno. Guys think they are actually putting down their high gear dyno numbers on the track. They are not. The effect of wind resistance once you get above 60 mph is very significant and gets worse as speed increases.
See also the aerodynamic drag chart I pulled from a physics research paper. The testing was done on a 5th gen Corvette, so drag coefficient was probably similar to our cars. Notice how much horsepower it takes to overcome drag as speed increases -- that is horsepower that has to be reduced from static chassis dyno numbers.
You are losing power on the top end and it is probably boost related or you are running under bad temp/barometric pressure/altitude conditions.
I sure wish I could learn to launch like you. What is your secret, if you don't mind. lol. You can probably see from the charts that I'm launching too aggressively and fighting wheelspin with the throttle. I hope some of this helps. Note that the very brief hp spikes on the chart going into 4th and 5th and the rpm spikes at the end of that chart are electronic artifact and should be disregarded.
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08SPEED3Veteran
Member
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- 08 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Corksport DP, RP, and TBE...no cats=no restriction(ricer)
love the sound!
heres a link to a video for sound...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsFPWAgTQn8
love the sound!
heres a link to a video for sound...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsFPWAgTQn8
Marauder.45
Member
- :
- 06 MS6
Track was Atco Raceway in NJ earlier this year. April IIRC. It was in the 60s that night and normal NJ humidity.
That's what's got me stumped. I though I was launching bad and there was more, but after seeing the avg 60s I realize I'm getting at least .2 better than the average. So I have to be losing it somewhere. I've been feeling sluggish in 3rd no matter what.
I have a CP-e CAI and Catback. I guess I really need to just get the Cobb AP first and see what's going on.
ETA: Most recent C/D had an article about an Evo build up. They had and intake and catback set up, and they found that separately they made more power than when they were put together. They surmised that the stock ECU tune couldn't take them both into account. So they added a Cobb tune and whammo, 60 more hp together on the dyno. (or something like that)
That's what's got me stumped. I though I was launching bad and there was more, but after seeing the avg 60s I realize I'm getting at least .2 better than the average. So I have to be losing it somewhere. I've been feeling sluggish in 3rd no matter what.
I have a CP-e CAI and Catback. I guess I really need to just get the Cobb AP first and see what's going on.
ETA: Most recent C/D had an article about an Evo build up. They had and intake and catback set up, and they found that separately they made more power than when they were put together. They surmised that the stock ECU tune couldn't take them both into account. So they added a Cobb tune and whammo, 60 more hp together on the dyno. (or something like that)
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Stainless works catted/catless DP
DP dosent make sound or loudness, so really it dosent matter which one you go with, the performance is going to be fairly close no mater what you compare. muffler's and resonators, sometimes Cats make the sound and loudness, the flowing pipe does not. if you pick a CP-E or Cobb over something else, its because of the "quality" factor that comes with it, even though it is just a 3 inch piece of pipe bent to a shape. that or you may wish for a cast housing for the bolt on to the turbo.
and a Test pipe with stock CBE is going to drive you insane, the droan is horrible and for a DD you will want to shoot yourself. there may not be much performance improvement for buying a CBE, but it will quiet things out and make a more pleasant cruise, but sound BA when you get on it.
if you dont want a code put a defouler on, or an extended bung for the 02 sensor.
DP dosent make sound or loudness, so really it dosent matter which one you go with, the performance is going to be fairly close no mater what you compare. muffler's and resonators, sometimes Cats make the sound and loudness, the flowing pipe does not. if you pick a CP-E or Cobb over something else, its because of the "quality" factor that comes with it, even though it is just a 3 inch piece of pipe bent to a shape. that or you may wish for a cast housing for the bolt on to the turbo.
and a Test pipe with stock CBE is going to drive you insane, the droan is horrible and for a DD you will want to shoot yourself. there may not be much performance improvement for buying a CBE, but it will quiet things out and make a more pleasant cruise, but sound BA when you get on it.
if you dont want a code put a defouler on, or an extended bung for the 02 sensor.
Marauder.45
Member
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- 06 MS6
Does anybody have the CP-e downpipe with hiflow cat?
funksilver07
Member
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- 2007 Sunlight Silver Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Had the TurboXS stealth kit (DP/RP catless) MS CAI, TIP, Forge BPV, rear MM/shifter bushings, stand alone boost gauge/dashhawk. I'm back to stock DP/MP. Loved the extra power, hated the boost cut issues. Went back to the stock DP/MP for several reasons, (Autox classification, fear of a huge fine for illegal tampering of my cats, They're cracking down here. California sucks for emissions control. I know a couple of peeps who have been busted for this and it's no fun, plus a big fine, near $1000. after all is said and done.) Anyway, now that I'm over the depression (sad2) of losing the power I had, the car is running very smooth again and is still a very quick fun DD. Corksport CBE is on the way plus a new RSB. Going to purchase a turbo manifold before the end of the year...going to concentrate on suspension and getting ready for the Nor/Pac divisional Autox race in June, (which I now will qualify for in my class STU.) I now have a street legal machine that still kicks ass...(drive)
Marauder.45
Member
- :
- 06 MS6
Were you running the stock tune with all that? What's the boost cut issue?
Would having a tuner fix the boost cut issue.
I'm leaning towards getting the cp-e full DP with the hi-flow cat just to avoid the fine. NJ is setting up DOT checkpoints all over.
Would having a tuner fix the boost cut issue.
I'm leaning towards getting the cp-e full DP with the hi-flow cat just to avoid the fine. NJ is setting up DOT checkpoints all over.
funksilver07
Member
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- 2007 Sunlight Silver Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Yes stock tune, I'm sure an aftermarket tune would of helped me out some, but those aren't perfect either. I was going to go map clamp/boost cut defender before I back tracked. I still know some that are getting some boost cut even with a tune. I just didn't want to pour a bunch more money into the power side of my car knowing the limitations of this engine platform. Doesn't mean I won't try again at some point. Right now just trying to get myself to a point where I'm happy with the set up and can just drive my DD for a while instead of tuning and re-tuning parts to work right. I'm not trying to build a race car, yet...haha. (spin)
Marauder.45
Member
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- 06 MS6
How do you recognize boost cut? Do you need a boost gauge?
Can you elaborate on the "limitations" of the motor and such?
Can you elaborate on the "limitations" of the motor and such?
dandydaniel
Member
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- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
it really is getting a bit scary driving around northern california without a cat. alls i have is a ********** test pipe and an hks cbe and i get tailed by quite a few cops (especially at night). i know one of these days my luck is gonna run out and i'm gonna have to pay to play so i might go ahead and just go back to just running the cbe.
f california laws and seriously, double F the cops here in california.
f california laws and seriously, double F the cops here in california.
funksilver07
Member
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- 2007 Sunlight Silver Mazdaspeed 3 GT
You can't mistake "boost cut" it's like hitting a wall. Some people say they have a stutter/sputter that's NOT boost cut. When I had the TurboXS DP/RP with the rest of my mods (SRI, TIP, Forge BPV) I would get into boost cut on a regular basis in colder weather. Any time I hit over 18psi+ I would get boost cut. It would feel like slamming on the brakes, your ECU is hitting the limit and the car's safeguard mechanism kicks in and stops you from going to far and blowing your engine. It was totally annoying too. It's never any fun having this happen. You can tune this out (cheaply or expensively) but in either case you have to spend some $$$ and keep close track of monitoring what/where your cars vital numbers are running at or you risk ruining your engine. The limitations of the engine are just that, nothing that a bigger turbo, internals a tune etc. can't solve, just depends how much $$$ you want to spend and where you want to go with your car. These cars have a tune from the factory and when you start messing with it and adding mods that change the characteristics of the ECU map you better have some knowledge, time, patience, and money to get it to work right. This is my DD so trying to keep it safe, legal, and within my budget. Which isn't huge, haha. So, that's why I back stepped a bit. I live in California too and it's very true what dandydaniel said re: California laws and cat/illegal emissions tampering. It can get you a huge fine as well as putting your car back to stock for a state referee/smog testing. NO FUN. I've been there before it sucks, thus I'm now running my stock DP/MP again with the rest of my street legal mods and I still have a great DD that I do occasional autox with and still have a blast driving it. At least now, not if but when I get stopped again I will have a car that won't get me a huge fine and a PITA re-install on stock parts. I did learn from the mods and I probably would do it again, it's a learning curve I go through with any new car I have. I find out where I want to go, sometimes by adding mods that ultimately don't work for me but I will eventually find a mix that I can live with... For me that's the fun part of messing with and finding the limits of where I can go... Right now just waiting on my Corksport CBE and Hotshkis RSB, for my next round I will be spending my time concentrating on my suspension for my autox days and to keep me from getting too bored ha...(yes) Sorry for the book I wrote here, once I get started DAMN. (dance)
Marauder.45
Member
- :
- 06 MS6
Mine is my DD as well, and NJ isn't much better than CA. Safety of my mods on my motor is a concern, but I'm willing to do it the right way in order to have it as safe as possible.
I'm going to go the cp-e downpipe route with the cat in it. That will be give me a cp-e cai, cp-e downpipe, and magnaflow CBE for my mods. I'll be ordering the Cobb AP to tune it all safely. Might add the Forge BPV if I need it, and maybe a TIP as well.
I'm going to be over budget, I had planned on $1200. But $750 for DP and $695 for Cobb AP is going to have me over $1500 with shipping and whatever else. But laying out the extra $$$ for the CP-E with cat seems like a small expense compared to the possible fine I could get down the road. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I'm going to go the cp-e downpipe route with the cat in it. That will be give me a cp-e cai, cp-e downpipe, and magnaflow CBE for my mods. I'll be ordering the Cobb AP to tune it all safely. Might add the Forge BPV if I need it, and maybe a TIP as well.
I'm going to be over budget, I had planned on $1200. But $750 for DP and $695 for Cobb AP is going to have me over $1500 with shipping and whatever else. But laying out the extra $$$ for the CP-E with cat seems like a small expense compared to the possible fine I could get down the road. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Marauder.45
Member
- :
- 06 MS6
TIP is Turbo Inlet Pipe.
Never heard of the mid-pipe, course I'm real new here. Test pipe I understand is just basically a straight pipe that eliminates the cat. Race pipe replaces the same part, only it's baffled instead of just a pipe. Sound reduction I understand.
That's my understanding anyway.
Never heard of the mid-pipe, course I'm real new here. Test pipe I understand is just basically a straight pipe that eliminates the cat. Race pipe replaces the same part, only it's baffled instead of just a pipe. Sound reduction I understand.
That's my understanding anyway.
funksilver07
Member
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- 2007 Sunlight Silver Mazdaspeed 3 GT
midpipe/racepipe/testpipe=all the same part, confusing at first. A testpipe/racepipe as named on many sites replaces our stock midpipe (secondary cat, the MS3 has 2 cats, 1 in the DP 1 in the MP section) connects to the stock downpipe. Look at the attachment it will help explain...keep in mind some companies make DP's that are one unit and replace both DP and MP and some companies make separate DP/RP that are separate components.
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