Background Info:
My car has gt28rs, MAM mani, AWR MM(95 durometer) and inserts(95 durometer), 626 intake mani, iON 3" TBE, SS FTC, sr motorsport cams( both set at 0*), awr rad, medieval pullies minus the ps pulley, and jdm cams, stock heat range spark plugs, red magnecor wires. So I took my car in about 3 weeks ago for a regular state inspection, but they didnt pass me because my rear endlink broke.....Here is where the problem starts. I took it home and swapped out the awr endlink for a custom endlink another forum member made for me.....I go to start the car up and makes a loud chattering noise like metal is smacking metal, it idles fine and then the idle drops and slowly stalls. I started it up again and it does them same thing. I tried it again and the car would struggle to turn over and eventually turns over but still hearing the lound chattering noise, then slowly stalls. The car does not have CEL, nor have I gotten one since this problem started occurring. The car currently has 57,000 miles on the clock.
The Symptoms:
* The Car struggles to turn over and eventually turns over. However, it when it does startup the a/c is usually on, and when I turn the air off the car slowly stalls.
* It slowly stalls or dies out after finally turning over.
* If I give it gas, the car will move like there is no issue, but when I come to a stop, or idle it stalls out. I had a lightwieght crank pulley on the car and the screws on the timing tooth wheel backed out and started smacking against the crank sensor(which is what the loud chattering noise was)
* As I mentioned be4 the car drives like there is no issue, but i wont hit full boost(7psi) till about 5500rpms....keep in mind it is running a gt28rs with an upgraded compressor wheel....
Diagnosed so far:
* After inspecting the crank sensor I figured the timing tooth wheel that kept chattering against the crank sensor, I figured the crank sensor was ******. So I removed it to compare with a working crank sensor(Thanks mryellerp5).....and visually you can see it was messed up(See pic). I replaced the stock crank pulley, and am using the other crank sensor. After replacing car will start up a bit quicker, but eventually slowly stall out. It will start up and idle fine, but when I turnoff the A/C the slow stall is almost instant. With the A/C off the car struggles to turn over.
* I have sprayed MAF cleaner on all the lines just incase it was a huge vacuum leak....but for the few seconds the car stays on not much could be done but after spraying all the lines it would still stall.
* All intercooler piping are on tight and most connected with t-bolt clamps. Doubled checked to make sure nothing popped off or would pop off.
* Running the stock NGK plugs, checked them and are gapped at .029, just regular black carbon on it. Plugs have about 1,000 miles on them. Changed coil packs, put back stock spark plug wires no change.
* Timing is correct (removed valve cover, accessory belts, and plastic covers to check)
* I have put about 200 miles on the car since the problem has started, using 93 octane from shell gas station.
* EGR is connected to intake mani, but not to MAM mani, I cut EGR pipe and running breather filter on it.
*I have checked the bolts on the MAM mani and the intake mani to see if any of them got loose but all are still tight.
*I can drive the car fine for now until I get to a stop, I have to keep my foot on the brake and partially on the throttle and try to keep the tach needle at or right under the 1K mark.
Please any insight is greatly appreciated. Dont say use the search button because I already have and havent found a solution to this issue.
My car has gt28rs, MAM mani, AWR MM(95 durometer) and inserts(95 durometer), 626 intake mani, iON 3" TBE, SS FTC, sr motorsport cams( both set at 0*), awr rad, medieval pullies minus the ps pulley, and jdm cams, stock heat range spark plugs, red magnecor wires. So I took my car in about 3 weeks ago for a regular state inspection, but they didnt pass me because my rear endlink broke.....Here is where the problem starts. I took it home and swapped out the awr endlink for a custom endlink another forum member made for me.....I go to start the car up and makes a loud chattering noise like metal is smacking metal, it idles fine and then the idle drops and slowly stalls. I started it up again and it does them same thing. I tried it again and the car would struggle to turn over and eventually turns over but still hearing the lound chattering noise, then slowly stalls. The car does not have CEL, nor have I gotten one since this problem started occurring. The car currently has 57,000 miles on the clock.
The Symptoms:
* The Car struggles to turn over and eventually turns over. However, it when it does startup the a/c is usually on, and when I turn the air off the car slowly stalls.
* It slowly stalls or dies out after finally turning over.
* If I give it gas, the car will move like there is no issue, but when I come to a stop, or idle it stalls out. I had a lightwieght crank pulley on the car and the screws on the timing tooth wheel backed out and started smacking against the crank sensor(which is what the loud chattering noise was)
* As I mentioned be4 the car drives like there is no issue, but i wont hit full boost(7psi) till about 5500rpms....keep in mind it is running a gt28rs with an upgraded compressor wheel....
Diagnosed so far:
* After inspecting the crank sensor I figured the timing tooth wheel that kept chattering against the crank sensor, I figured the crank sensor was ******. So I removed it to compare with a working crank sensor(Thanks mryellerp5).....and visually you can see it was messed up(See pic). I replaced the stock crank pulley, and am using the other crank sensor. After replacing car will start up a bit quicker, but eventually slowly stall out. It will start up and idle fine, but when I turnoff the A/C the slow stall is almost instant. With the A/C off the car struggles to turn over.
* I have sprayed MAF cleaner on all the lines just incase it was a huge vacuum leak....but for the few seconds the car stays on not much could be done but after spraying all the lines it would still stall.
* All intercooler piping are on tight and most connected with t-bolt clamps. Doubled checked to make sure nothing popped off or would pop off.
* Running the stock NGK plugs, checked them and are gapped at .029, just regular black carbon on it. Plugs have about 1,000 miles on them. Changed coil packs, put back stock spark plug wires no change.
* Timing is correct (removed valve cover, accessory belts, and plastic covers to check)
* I have put about 200 miles on the car since the problem has started, using 93 octane from shell gas station.
* EGR is connected to intake mani, but not to MAM mani, I cut EGR pipe and running breather filter on it.
*I have checked the bolts on the MAM mani and the intake mani to see if any of them got loose but all are still tight.
*I can drive the car fine for now until I get to a stop, I have to keep my foot on the brake and partially on the throttle and try to keep the tach needle at or right under the 1K mark.
Please any insight is greatly appreciated. Dont say use the search button because I already have and havent found a solution to this issue.
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