msp stock exhaust system
- Thread starter 03MSP-JH
- Start date
the stock system is designed by racing beat, the exhaust isn't bad with the exception of the mid-pipe (because of the cats) and the down pipe, the rest is ok depending on your power goals
BTW there is a handy feature called a search, these questions have already been asked to death...
BTW there is a handy feature called a search, these questions have already been asked to death...
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- 2002 22A P5 and 2007 TR MS3
Where in Washington are you??? Just wondering....I've got the Stock MSP Racing beat axle-back modified to fit the P5 and I love it...It's definitely a huge step up from the P5 stockness...
Most people do upgrade their exhaust tho...If you're looking for more horsepower...If not, the exhaust is nice...stainless steel muffler..
i live in bothell..i got a leak in my exhaust somewhere. im pretty sure its the headers because i tighten the bolts and the sound that it makes from the leak is gone. but a couple days or weeks later it will leak again. i wanna get new headers and exhaust system, but i just dont know what kind and how much it will cost me. any idea??
thanks
thanks
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- 2002 22A P5 and 2007 TR MS3
Cool...I'm over in Redmond
BTW.."headers" is plural..as in more than one...like a V6/V8 setup..4-cylinder have single "header".....and Don't call it a header on a turbo car...call it an exhaust manifold...
What bolts are you tightening???...
Anyway...the original manifold has been know to crack, but if the sound is going away, it may just be a gasket or something...
As far as the exhaust...you've got turbo-back options...J-pipe, Midpipe, cat-back options....for full turbo-back exhaust you'll look to spend $500 to $800...my best guess...
New intake manifolds run from $200 for like OBX turbo manifold to like $600
I would diagnose the problem first...repair it or replace whatevers causing it, then worry about the rest...
BTW.."headers" is plural..as in more than one...like a V6/V8 setup..4-cylinder have single "header".....and Don't call it a header on a turbo car...call it an exhaust manifold...
What bolts are you tightening???...
Anyway...the original manifold has been know to crack, but if the sound is going away, it may just be a gasket or something...
As far as the exhaust...you've got turbo-back options...J-pipe, Midpipe, cat-back options....for full turbo-back exhaust you'll look to spend $500 to $800...my best guess...
New intake manifolds run from $200 for like OBX turbo manifold to like $600
I would diagnose the problem first...repair it or replace whatevers causing it, then worry about the rest...
ok thanks..well i put a the old filter with a new one and my check engine light and battery light turned on. there are 2 wires that connect to the old filter box. i connected one..but i dont know where the other one goes. could you help me out? here are some pics..
Attachments
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- 2002 22A P5 and 2007 TR MS3
Battery light is unrelated to the filter I imagine...
Did you reset your computer when you did the switch...Without resetting the ECU may just be seeing a large change in airflow and that could cause the CEL...which is probably due to running lean...IDK...but that's my guess...
If you didn't reset the ECU...Do this...Unplug the negative terminal on the battery...pump your brake pedal like 5-6 times...re-attach the negative terminal...This will reset the ECU and clear out the codes....drive for a while, about 100 miles, and see if they come back...If they don't come back...then there isn't a problem...
The battery light is a different story...and one I couldn't figure out...Go to autozone and have them load test the battery...might just need a new one.
Did you reset your computer when you did the switch...Without resetting the ECU may just be seeing a large change in airflow and that could cause the CEL...which is probably due to running lean...IDK...but that's my guess...
If you didn't reset the ECU...Do this...Unplug the negative terminal on the battery...pump your brake pedal like 5-6 times...re-attach the negative terminal...This will reset the ECU and clear out the codes....drive for a while, about 100 miles, and see if they come back...If they don't come back...then there isn't a problem...
The battery light is a different story...and one I couldn't figure out...Go to autozone and have them load test the battery...might just need a new one.
