camber bolt question

[khaosman]

Which hole should I put the bolt in to get maximum negative camber, the top or the bottom?

Right now my rear negative camber is... pretty much non-existent. The bolts must have slipped I'm going to readjust them in hopes of alleviating my tire rubbing in the back. I may have to raise the rear up as well

Also I'm curious how much negative camber you all have gotten with bolts. I think I had -1.5* or so previously.

 

[shane02pro5]

They are designed to be put in the top. It's surprising how much you can get out of them. I think you can swing it about 1/2"

 

[aMaff]

my guess was going to be top...

BTW got any pics of those things?

 

[shane02pro5]

As the bolt is rotated it moves the cam section inside the hub bore where the strut is attached to shift it either way.

 

[aMaff]

ah, gotcha. So it just works like an eccentric on a double wishbone car.

 

[fLyPiNoY7]

hehe...funny u mention this...i just removed mine cause they were causing my alignment problems

 

[DE31]

i still have mine in the rear but its set to zero only because my alignment shop "adjusted" my rear camber by putting a smaller diameter bolt when i had my coil overs.

*edit* camber bolts zero but actual camber is negative to a degree i cant remember

 

[Sveivo]

How does this work? The holes in the strut brackets are only as big as the bolts are. Are these bolts smaller in diameter?

 

[DE31]

they're like a cam, the overall diameter of the cam is the same as stock but the rest is smaller then if you see the washer they have a tab that is the width to compensate for the smaller diameter bolt. if that makes any sense at all.

http://www.ingallseng.com/graphics/Product_Pictures/81260.gif

see the little tab on the washer of the upper bolt?

 

[Sveivo]

they're like a cam, the overall diameter of the cam is the same as stock but the rest is smaller then if you see the washer they have a tab that is the width to compensate for the smaller diameter bolt. if that makes any sense at all.

http://www.ingallseng.com/graphics/Product_Pictures/81260.gif

see the little tab on the washer of the upper bolt?

Oh, I see. Thank you. That is clever design indeed.

 

[khaosman]

As the bolt is rotated it moves the cam section inside the hub bore where the strut is attached to shift it either way.

Hmm... I installed mine like that and rotated the bolt until the hub bore (at the top) shifted towards the inside of the car. Then I put the wheels back on and checked it out, looks barely negative. That was still on jack stands though.

Is there any thing else I can do (short of camber plates)? I thought people were getting much more negative camber out of these things, like closer to -2* or so.

 

[low_psi]

What kind of camber bolts are you using? I hope to get atleast -2.5*.

You could slot the holes for the top mount and use some lock washers to TRY and keep them from moving.

 

[khaosman]

I can't remember, I bought them off of apexlater. I'll shoot him a PM I suppose.

 

[khaosman]

I got it back together today. Freakin' drenched in sweat again, nothing like 84F and 89% humidity. It has very slight negative camber, around a degree or so. I think it might be a little more than it had. Still probably not enough to prevent rubbing. I couldn't adjust the height on my coilovers because one was seized, GG crusty salty Iowa winter roads Oh well, in spring time I will probably be going AWRs... hopefully a winter beater too.

 

[aMaff]

have you rolled the fenders yet?

 

[khaosman]

Yep

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I got it back together today. Freakin' drenched in sweat again, nothing like 84F and 89% humidity.

Welcome to my world. Try 95F with 95% humidity. It's like walking out in a sweat rain. You can't just be outside without getting drenched much less work on something.