Nasty looking spark plug. What happened?

I pulled my plugs recently. At glance it doesn't really look like theres any problems. Once I took macro shots with a camera I could see theres a problem.

First, the specks. I don't see any shine to them in any light, so I don't think it's aluminum. And if it's porcelain I'm not sure where it came from because the porcelain on the plug doesn't look melted. Could it be seepage from anti-seize compound? I also notice some black specks. Should I expect a jacked up piston ring?

Second, the green coloration. Could this be oxidation from the plugs overheating?

Third, the buildup below the strap. I would think that there would only be buildup to the bottom of the strap, not below it. Am I wrong in my assumption?

Fourth, pitting on the electrode. Pre-ignition from the plug being too hot?

Anyone see anything else?

My vac is 21-22 @ idle. If I rev vac goes to about 2 then drops to around 24. I've had no oil loss since my last oil change roughly 3000 miles ago. I had some coolant loss, but it appears it was coming from the crappy top coolant hose (which I still haven't had replaced). My vac gauge needle does float back and forth 2-4Hg around every 3 seconds in 3rd or 4th gear in the 2500-3500 rpm range (although its not always an exact science). And, I have a hard time boosting.

What could cause this to happen? These pictures are of 1 plug, but all 4 plugs have a similar appearance with a few differences.
 

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Really? I guess I was looking for an answer to the problem I'm having with boost and the vac needle floating. Damn it. (pissed)

Could I go with a colder plug? Or does it look like the heat range is ok?
 
a boost leak would not cause low idle. all your other vacuum readings seem good to me from what i understand.
 
Those look fine to me, look better than my plugs after 30k
 

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crackerjakx said:
My vac gauge needle does float back and forth 2-4Hg around every 3 seconds in 3rd or 4th gear in the 2500-3500 rpm range (although its not always an exact science).
Is this while curising at a constant speed? Could be a leak when the EGR opens, no?
 
BradC said:
Is this while curising at a constant speed? Could be a leak when the EGR opens, no?

Yes, actually, it does seem to only happen around a contant cruising speed. Could you elaborate on this a little more? Why would there be a leak in the EGR valve?

EDIT: Now you have me wondering if its possibly sticking. The floating does seem really rythmic... in the sense that vac will drop, then literally 1 second later goes back up, but the act of it happening isn't rythmic. It has also become more apparent lately, which could be because it's sticking more.
 
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jeg0024 said:
Those look fine to me, look better than my plugs after 30k

Thanks for that comparison. Now I have a better idea of what I should expect to see. Guess I jumped the gun on thinking there was something more serious wrong. (braindead
 
Get a can of seafoam and run 1/3 of it through the hose that connects to the top of pcv and put the rest in your tank. Also check and tighten if loose all of the clamps on the ic tubes.
 
DAWIV said:
Get a can of seafoam and run 1/3 of it through the hose that connects to the top of pcv and put the rest in your tank. Also check and tighten if loose all of the clamps on the ic tubes.

Already ahead of ya there. Dropped 2/3rds seafoam in my tank Friday and put the other 1/3rd in through the hose that connects to the PCV. Didn't do anything to help the problem.
 
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I'd suggested it based on the carbon on your plugs. Checking and tightening the clamps might help your floating vac.
 
crackerjakx said:
Yes, actually, it does seem to only happen around a contant cruising speed. Could you elaborate on this a little more? Why would there be a leak in the EGR valve?

EDIT: Now you have me wondering if its possibly sticking. The floating does seem really rythmic... in the sense that vac will drop, then literally 1 second later goes back up, but the act of it happening isn't rythmic. It has also become more apparent lately, which could be because it's sticking more.
IIRC, the EGR valve uses a vacc diaphram to open the valve, no?

It was just a shot in the dark, trying to think of things that happen under cetain conditions. Do you have an OBDII scanner? You could watch and see when it opens and watch your vac readings.
 
BradC said:
IIRC, the EGR valve uses a vacc diaphram to open the valve, no?

It was just a shot in the dark, trying to think of things that happen under cetain conditions. Do you have an OBDII scanner? You could watch and see when it opens and watch your vac readings.

I don't have a scanner, but I should probably get one. Do you know a good place to purchase one? Or have any recommendations on one? I really want one that can log data over a period of time. If you don't know, that's fine, I'm just being lazy. (stoned)
 
crackerjakx said:
Thanks for that comparison. Now I have a better idea of what I should expect to see. Guess I jumped the gun on thinking there was something more serious wrong. (braindead


No prob, and yeah, they are gonna look crappy like that when you look at them as close as you were. You shoulda seen the ones I changed out of a Ford today, the gaps were bridged with carbon buildup and were covered in oil, im suprised it even still ran.
 
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