Wastegate Actuator Install Question

[butter5784]

I just installed a boost gauge and at idle it's a 20psi vacume. When I dirve it goes to around 2psi boost. I know this isn't right. I chacked for leaks in the boost tubes and they are fine. I have a wastegate actuator to try next.

My question is... the post that connects to the turbo... how is it connected? I see the two mouning points on the actuator but I can't see what else I need to do. I've searched and couldn't find the answer. Any help would be great. Any suggestions other than that would be helpfull also. Thanks..

 

[jmv]

theres a hole in the end of the rod on the wga, it goes over a post and theres a clip on the post to hold the wga in place. Its up under the exhuast mani and kinda a pain to get to. Some people have only been able to get the clip off by breaking it, but i was able to reuse mine. A set of long pliers and a long screwdriver definitely helps.

 

[Kansei]

It's connected with an e-clip

at least I know mine is.

 

[Jaysanooch]

Here's a picture that could help give you a better idea. I'm not sure it's your actuator though...could be the internal wastegate that is stuck....better wait for the experts to reply.

 

[Kansei]

stuck open perhaps.. but as soon as you disconnect the clip you should be able to determine by trying to rotate the little arm that moves the wastegate valve by hand.

 

[butter5784]

OK. Thanks to all of your suggestions the install went as well as can be expected. It was a pain in the ass as described by everyone here. I wastegate switched seemed to work properly.

After the install my boost gauge still reads 20psi vacume at idle.. is this correct ?

My wife drove the car and the most boost the gauge will read is about 5psi boost. when it does there is almost a fuel cut feeling but it's not redlined. Is this a typical situation? I know my boost should be higher. I installed a Forge wastegate actuator that has a 9psi spring.. Any suggestions ?

 

[jmv]

20 in/Hg vac is pretty good. People say it should be between 20 and 22.

Now i see that you've got a unichip installed.... is it hitting 5 psi with the boost controller off?? Or on??

 

[butter5784]

it's a 3 psi with the boost off, and 5 psi with the boost on...

 

[butter5784]

bump

 

[jmv]

yeah thats not right. Did you manage to see during the install if the piece the wga connects to was able to move freely??

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

it's a 3 psi with the boost off, and 5 psi with the boost on...

Does it feel like it is only boosting 5 psi? If it still feels like 10-12psi, then it could be a kink in the line for the boost gauge or a problem with the gauge itself. Otherwise, you have a leak that only occurs when boosting.

 

[butter5784]

The wastegate moved freely.

the car doesn't seem like it's boosting much at all so i don't think it's the gauge. It' zero's out with the car not running and is at 20 with the car idleing. just not getting oboost. i'm going to search more for any leaks... that's all i know to do...(bang)

Does it feel like it is only boosting 5 psi? If it still feels like 10-12psi, then it could be a kink in the line for the boost gauge or a problem with the gauge itself. Otherwise, you have a leak that only occurs when boosting.

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

The wastegate moved freely.

the car doesn't seem like it's boosting much at all so i don't think it's the gauge. It' zero's out with the car not running and is at 20 with the car idleing. just not getting oboost. i'm going to search more for any leaks... that's all i know to do...(bang)

What are you running for a BPV or BOV? It might not hold boost, the spring or diaphram could be shot, look in to that. If it were leaking badly, you would have a hell of a time building boost, but the turbo would still be spooling like crazy.

 

[butter5784]

I'm running a perrin BOV and I don't beleive it leaks but that could be possible. Maybe I'll try disconnecting it and driving around. I know it opens up when I let off the gas. I can see the boost drasticly drop when I let off the throtle.

What are you running for a BPV or BOV? It might not hold boost, the spring or diaphram could be shot, look in to that. If it were leaking badly, you would have a hell of a time building boost, but the turbo would still be spooling like crazy.

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

I would test it because the problem you are describing usually only leads to a few things in these cars.
1.) Wastegate is stuck open or wga is leaking. You just replaced the wastegate actuator, so it should not leak and you would have noticed if the actual wastegate was stuck open because you would have had a lot of trouble getting the rod connected to the wastegate lever arm.
2.) Boost/Vac leak, but you would more than likely see this in your vac reading at idle unless the leak only happens under pressure and not vac. The boost level is entirely controlled by the WGA, so if your car is not building x amount of boost (x being whatever the wga is rated at), then the wastegate is never opening. Therefore, the air has too be escaping somewhere before the pressure reaches the wga. You said you checked all charge pipes and vac lines right? What about damage to the intercooler from rocks and s***?
3.) BOV is leaking under boost. Most regular leaks are detectable under vacuum, but if the BOV were leaking that may not be the case at all. Are you venting or recirculating? If venting and leaking under boost, you would probably be running very rich. However, if recirculating, then no air would actually be escaping, but the air would be passing through the BOV/BPV back in to the intake before the turbo. This would never allow the car to build much boost and the turbo would be working twice as hard, but the afr would not be as messed up because no metered air would really be escaping.