anyone useing street unts motor mounts?

My mounts shipped on the 22nd. I am hoping I will see them tomorrow. Pics and whatnot to follow.
 
Got em today. Unfortunately, I was gone all day and just got home to see the box on the front porch. Pics and front install tomorrow for sure.
 
I just got the front and rear. Rear has been installed for 3-5 days now. Probably drove about 200-250ish miles with it and love it. Vibrations are not too bad. Feels very solid. Love it. Good buy. (first)
 
Front one is in. Still got the car up on the jackstands. Opinion to come after she gets a drive. They are sweet looking though.
 
How are they better if they dont do the job that it was meant to do? The point of the motor mount is to kill the drive train lash not for creature comfort. If that was the case you should just fill the stock mounts with 3M.

justanotheradikt said:
the street unit ones will be a lot better htan the awrs.... they have 62A dur. and larger bushing so it transfers less to the cabin.

they look bad ass also!


http://www.awrracing.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=20

AWR is aware there are other companies now out there which are selling 'pretty' engine mounts, that are cheaper than our mounts. While we strive to make a nice looking product, function is our primary goal.

These other mounts, while shiny and pretty, use a really soft urethane bushing, which will not come close to stopping your driveline lash.

If you just want your hidden mounts to be pretty, then you can buy the other mounts, but if you truly want a performance mount, then there is no substitute for the AWR mount with stiff urethane bushings.

Heavy Duty replacement engine mounts are manufactured with stiff 95 durometer urethane bushings (instead of the stock rubber) encased in a gold zinc bracket.

These are recommended for the Manual Transmission cars. Helps stop drivetain lash (rocking) when transitioning from gas on to gas off. Includes left and right (near radiator and firewall) engine mounts in urethane (39-040/050). Fits MAZDASPEED as well as non-turbocharged 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines. These are our stiffest mounts and are recommended for Manual transmission cars. Automatic transmissions are recommended to use the 88 durometer mounts, though either will fit. Bushings are also available separately and inexpensively, in case you decide to change.
 
I am running an auto and I wanted nothing to do with a 95 or even an 88 durometer mount. I wanted to keep my fillings in my mouth. I went with the SU mounts because of the 62 durometer and knowing that they would do what I wanted them to do. When I shifted into reverse the motor would lurch so far forward that it would make my Racing Beat exhaust hit on the rear crossmember under the floor of the car just above the rear axle. I wasn't worried about wheel hop or anything like that. I simply wanted to limit the lurching of the motor. As long as the SU mounts don't fall apart then I am completely happy with my "pretty mounts".
 

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