Stalling at IDLE again w/ the MPI

[Bigg Tim]

The idle will raise as I spray the bad lines? Why is this? Will it be temporarily clogging the holes?

The carb cleaner is flamable, so therefore when it makes it's way into the combution chamber, through a vacuum leak, the idle will raise because it is making a sligthly larger "boom" in the chamber. It won't raise too much, maybe a hundred or couple of hundred RPM's. It will be like you just tapped the gas slightly at idle and let off.

hazeXban---the higher the number the leaner the mixture. A 10:1 A/F ratio is really rich and a 17:1 A/F ratio is really lean. Stoich is 14.7 and that's where the stock ECU will try to keep it when in closed loop and idle. When in boost around 12:1 is a good place to be. It will give you good power and not be too lean or rich.

SMP---have you tried to adjust the idle back down a little without unhooking anything? You should be able to do so now, just turn the screw a little and wait. Maybe rev it up a bit and let it settle back down. If it's not enough, then repeat. The MPI should not be keeping you from adjusting it back to where it was.

 

[smp3000]

Tim,

So I should spray all along the vacuum lines? Or am I supposed to spray inside something? Sorry if I seem really dumb as to how to do this.

I have always been told that I can only adjust the idle screw and have it take effect if the grey plug above the IAC valve is unplugged. Is this true?

 

[Bigg Tim]

Tim,

So I should spray all along the vacuum lines? Or am I supposed to spray inside something? Sorry if I seem really dumb as to how to do this.

I have always been told that I can only adjust the idle screw and have it take effect if the grey plug above the IAC valve is unplugged. Is this true?

Don't know much about the idle adjustment. Linux would be a better help there, care to chime in slick?

Now with the carb cleaner, you want to spray it around the seams where the hose hooks on the nipple or on the edge of the coupling where it meets the pipe. Hold on, I am making some pics.

 

[smp3000]

you rock Tim!!! btw when you moving back out here?

 

[Bigg Tim]

It's in the works man. Hopefully October or November. When/if I get out there, I'll help ya get that thing runnin right if you are still having issues.

Here are some crude pics. They will give you the jist of it. Don't spray half the can at each connection, you just want maybe a 1 second or so spray at each one. The can should be a few inches away when you do it. Spray at ALL vacuum line connections to check them ALL aout.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I think I need some carb cleaner!

 

[smp3000]

did the carb test on all vacuum lines, signal source fitting and couplers I could get to... And no luck. Cool concept though. Tomorrow after work I'll jack the car up and test the connections under the car.

Right now I'm re-wiring my mil fix which is on the 2nd O2 I beleive.. I did see a loose connection so who knows. I'm sure that's what caused my CEL PO134 to come on, but is it the source of my idle issue? We'll see!!

 

[acidbug]

did the carb test on all vacuum lines, signal source fitting and couplers I could get to... And no luck. Cool concept though. Tomorrow after work I'll jack the car up and test the connections under the car.

Right now I'm re-wiring my mil fix which is on the 2nd O2 I beleive.. I did see a loose connection so who knows. I'm sure that's what caused my CEL PO134 to come on, but is it the source of my idle issue? We'll see!!

solder your connections.

if your o2sensor wire is loose..or tearing..than you will have idle issues. I know i did when i first extended my o2sensor wire.

but that has been fixed long time ago.

Chas

 

[smp3000]

hmmm... I used connectors and they seemed pretty tight- but still same idle issue... God I hate this.

Tomorrow I'll check under the car for loose couplers, and then the ECU to see if maybe a wire came loose there.

 

[Kooldino]

I have an occasional stall issue too. Esp when I go from high rpms to totally off throttle. May be because my injectors are pre-tb, may be because my BOV is kinda weak.

 

[smp3000]

hmmm that reminds me, I'm going to check all the connections at my BOV.

Maybe clean out my injectors?

 

[Kooldino]

hmmm that reminds me, I'm going to check all the connections at my BOV.

Maybe clean out my injectors?

I doubt the injectors are the issue, but it can never hurt to clean them.

 

[smp3000]

I'm really curious as to what's causing this... I know I have a few more things to check out tonight, but is it possible that I'm just running way too rich at idle and it's causing it to bog and die? My A/F's are in the 11's and off the charts at times, until it sits and then raises to 12-13, but initially it's off the charts rich.

I need access to a laptop to change this on my maps. I also may need to change the idle screw back a bit. Could be a combo of both. Also, I just changed out my plugs, but since I've been running so rich maybe I already rocked them?

 

[LinuxRacr]

On cold startups, your idle A/F ratio should dip as low as 12's STOCK before the warmup. You need more fuel during cold startups.

You're idle is riyatch biyatch!!!

 

[Bigg Tim]

You're idle is riyatch biyatch!!!

^^^^^(werd)

You need to lean out the idle to be like 14.7 or so. That is definatly too rich for idle. The stock ECU must be fighting like crazy down there.

 

[smp3000]

hmm did a ton of stuff tongiht with it... Tore out the ECU and found that blue/pink wire ont he MPI was disconnected!!! I soldered it back together thinking this would fix things, bu it didn't. I messed with he tuning a lot (put 3's and 4's int he first column under 1500 rpms, and checked again for leaks. I drove the car a lot tonight while tuning at at times it would seemed I'd fix it and get all excited... But then at the next stoplight or two down the road it'd dip and stall.

One hting I noticed is that the tuning with the MPI is effective, but something is causing it initailly to go MAAAD rich (off the charts) as soon as the foot goes off the pedal- then after a second it bounces up to where it should be... But a lot of the time if ?I'm at a high speed it's just too much of a drop and will stall, at slower speeds i'm ok about 50% of the time.

In the morning I'm getting under to car to check the BOV and it's connections. It was too hot to check it tonight. I'll also change the plugs again incase running so rich the past few days has rocked them. If I remember right I gap them to .032 or so?

Also, igdrisil said soemthing about adding a ton of timing in the first column at 500-800 rpm at 0% load. I tried just adding 2 in those two cells and it seemed to hurt me more than help me. Any thoughts?

 

[acidbug]

In the morning I'm getting under to car to check the BOV and it's connections. It was too hot to check it tonight. I'll also change the plugs again incase running so rich the past few days has rocked them. If I remember right I gap them to .032 or so?

Also, igdrisil said soemthing about adding a ton of timing in the first column at 500-800 rpm at 0% load. I tried just adding 2 in those two cells and it seemed to hurt me more than help me. Any thoughts?

Gap plugs to .032..that's what i do.

I never had any luck advancing timing and such.

With a FI Setup...You usually wanna pull timing.

Chas

 

[smp3000]

right, but in theory advancing the timing under low rpm and in "non" boost states would raise the idle right?

 

[acidbug]

right, but in theory advancing the timing under low rpm and in "non" boost states would raise the idle right?

I guess?
I haven't tried it.

chas(hear ya)

 

[smp3000]

It's just insane becuase you can see the MPI doing it's thing and working when you're tuning it while parked and in idle... But there' just something causing it to go uber rich once the foot goes off the pedal.