Recent content by RedBaron

Possibly, but then the driver's side would be a better choice. Ooops, I forgot these are built/designed in a right-hand-drive country :D (Move on, nothing to see here...)

I think there's an echo in here.. in here.. in here.. :devilish::ROFLMAO:

Yes, it warns first and it does try to stop the car if you don't brake, but no guarantee that it will stop in time if travelling fast. Also, it tends to have some false positives, especially if a car is turning off the road in front of you. See also: What Is Mazda Smart Brake Support...

Sorry, bummer.

The classic answer for the is the lower control arm. I know you said you tested it, but take the wheel off and do a visual check anyway. Even then, there was a recent thread where the owner couldn't see anything wrong, but he eventually replaced the LCA and that fixed the issue. EDIT: See...

You should first confirm with them though, that these work with your 2025 model!

These have been available for a long time. See mikstoreph.com (Mazda iStop Disabler Kit) or Aliexpress, where they are probably available more cheaply.

cylinder deactivation is not defeatable.

The sway bar is not locked to the chassis, but pivots in the bushings. So there is only torque when one wheel is at a different height to the other. If both wheels are at the same height (high OR low) there is no torque (twist) from (in) the bar.

Can't you end the call with the steering wheel button?

In most cars (anyway) the alternator is grounded via the engine block, so ALL the alternator 'return' current goes through the ground strap(s). I had said: But this has now finally been answered by @AL Cx5's response below. If he'd said this earlier on, then given all that load on the...

Even with the two straps having (presumably) different resistances, any current will still be split across both as a ratio between the two resistances. That means if 8amps is really running through that new strap, then the other(s) is/are carrying something less than, but approaching, that as...

Yeah, also a retired electronic engineer with 45 years of experience here... Note that I simply said "ground strap". I know it's a negative 'ground' chassis. My point is that the engine block is already at negative potential based on the factory "ground straps". Adding another strap might...

If there's nothing wrong, then where is that current coming from? 8amps flowing through a ground strap? What the...?

Something must be wrong here. After all the engine block *IS* already grounded (even if not perfectly). I cannot believe there are 5+amps flowing through these grounds.